WhyPhy

What mujtaba is saying is that the switch can't directly dim / color change the low voltage LEDs. The low voltage LEDs needs to be controlled by their own power supply/controller, and then C4 controller uses a driver to communicate with the LED controller. The C4 switches would send commands to the C4 controller, which would send commands to the LED controller, which would control the lights. Some examples of this are Philips Hue (C4 controller -> Philips Hue controller -> Philips Hue LED light strip) and DMX (C4 controller -> DMX controller -> LED light strip.) This allows dimming control and color change control. But this is only if you need dimming capability or color change capability. If you don't, the easiest solution is to have a Control 4 wall switch (SW120277) turn the LED power supply on / off. The LED power supply is what converts high voltage to low voltage. This is the solution I'd recommend unless you're set on dimming or color change.

Yes, it should be the outer 2 relay terminals. You don’t need to use the center (normally closed) terminal on the relay. Then program the DS2 to activate the relay on button press; this is configured in the device settings.

From what I read, it no longer works in BlueIris after the Nest firmware/security update a few months ago.

That method no longer works because Nest removed the RTMPS URL that Blue Iris was using. To my knowledge, Control4 doesn't support RTMPS anyway.

I switched off the main breaker for about 20 seconds and all of the Control4 switches in my house were normal after I turned it back on. The cause of the problem seems to be near instantaneous power cycling (i.e. power flickers.) Slow power cycling is the fix.

If you need an extra lower mounting bracket, let me know. They only come in 5-packs and I only needed 1. This is for the Mini; not sure about the non-Mini.

If you're doing a conversion from surface-mount to flush-mount, you'll need a new flush mount backer box and a new flush mount cover. I also needed an extra internal mounting bracket for my DS2 Nini (a.k.a. 2N solo) conversion. I read somewhere that the conversion parts are not available through Control4 but not positive about the that. I ordered the 2N equivalents (2N makes the C4 Door Stations.) I got the part numbers from the 2N website, did a google search, and ordered them from an online from a distributor. 2N is an Axis company and multiple distributors sell the parts; if it's a low volume part it will likely drop shop directly from 2N. Useful links: 2N intercoms (find the one that matches your DoorStation and read through the website and PDFs.) https://www.2nusa.com/en_US/products/intercoms 2N product catalog (lists all parts): https://www.2nusa.com/en_US/documents/22902/2219714/residential_catalogue_en_lq.pdf/9c0ebbc2-a0dd-4d82-9a50-b3ea5f6f0df9 I hope this helps. Good luck!

I figured it out. The new C4 driver generates a random password that is shown in Composer. Details are in this post:

I'm trying to logon to the DS2 web interface to configure the relay to ring the doorbell, but I'm not longer able to log on. I keep getting "invalid password." Any ideas? I have the latest driver. Did that cause the password to change? Update: "Effective January 1st, 2020 California regulations require devices to change access passwords on first use, to accommodate these new regulations Control4 has modified the firmware of the DS2 Door Station to conform to these regulations." The username is still "admin". The password is randomly created by the latest driver. The new password is shown in Composer (System Design) Device Properties. The API password shown in Device Properties is also the Web IU password.

I can no longer log on to the DS2 web interface. Did the password change?

This is based on the original post. Better the dealer you know than the one you don’t. “The dealer did a fantastic job and we have continued to do business with them both monthly security monitoring as well as new equipment and feature requests. I have been very happy with all the services provided by our dealer.”

I wouldn’t switch dealers, but I also wouldn’t pay for the quote. They’ve done right by you so far. Tell them the problem and give them the opportunity to solve it. If they don’t, then start looking.

That's the most concise and useful summary of Lutron products I've ever seen! Their website doesn't do a great job explaining how similar products are different from each other. Fabric selection and pricing is also confusing. This search page is the best for narrowing down Triathlon fabrics if you don't have a fabric sample book: https://www.lutronfabrics.com/search

What are Millson brackets?

Here's another alternative: https://www.electroniclock.com/utopic-r

I agree that for C4-controlled music, Amazon Music, Tidal, and perhaps Pandora, are the most similar. For externally-controlled music, I see more commonality between Spotify, ShairBridge Airplay, and Sonos. They are require using separate apps for full control. (I realize Sonos isn't really a music streaming service, but given its popularity and how it only partially integrates with C4, I put it in the same group.)

FYI, Lusson Design is a Toronto-based company working on an automated 3-point lock. Below is what they posted in the Houzz.com discussion. If you're interested, I suggest reaching to them to help demonstrate the demand. Andrew Lusso Design 105 Winges Rd - Unit A, Woodbridge, ON L4L 6C2, Canada (By appointment only so, please give us a call before stopping by) (416) 834-9905 andrew@lussodesign.ca http://lussodesign.ca/contact/

If you can run wire, flush-mount occupancy sensors are the way to go.

It’s hard to say what “the best” is without knowing more requirements. If it’s for a security system and you want to prevent false alarms from your stove/oven (infrared heat) or pets, the dual PIR/microwave pet-immune sensors are the best. They cover a wide area and don’t have false alarms. I use the DSC corner-mount version (without the branding.) Bosch and Honeywell make multiple versions of motion sensors as well. All work well. if you want something for automating lights, an occupancy sensor would be better. The Faradite sensors are a bit pricey but very discreet. They are great for detecting occupancy in specific areas (hallways but not rooms.)

You don't need plenum rating unless you're running the wire through ducts, which I doubt. Plenum is mostly commercial. I did all CAT6a because it was close to the same price as cat6/cat5. It can do 10Gb Ethernet up to about 100 meters. Cat7 is much lager diameter and not nearly as flexible. It's a pain to work with. More trouble than it's worth and no real benefit. Monoprice is a good option.

Yes, Liftmaster MyQ is definitely easier; that's what I do for my garage access. And there's a MyQ driver for C4. For extra flexibility, if you have Apple devices, get the MyQ HomeKit version. It doesn't require a monthly fee and it works with the Apple Home app, so you don't even have to use the MyQ mobile app. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RQVSY7/

I have researched this thoroughly for my house as it was being build the front door was 7'-6" tall and needed a 3-point lock to prevent warping, and we wanted better sealing. I did not find any wireless/battery/Zigbee solutions The only 3-point automated lock is the Hoppe Multronic motorized lock. It is a wired motorized lock with a special power-transfer hinge. The lock can be controlled by the relay of C4 controller or I/O extender. Here's a discussion on automated 3-point locks: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/3869834/electronic-keyless-locks-for-a-multipoint-locking-jeld-wen-door These locks are complicated and expensive. If cost isn't a huge concern, use them. Otherwise, since these are service doors to your garage and not in your main living space, my recommendation would be to use conventional hardware instead. Use a standard latch in the middle and add a high-mount and low-mount battery-powered deadbolt to have 3 points of retention.

What's the status of the IP driver? I need to control 3 different HD300s and would rather not use IR.

I was comparing straight HDMI cable vs. video distribution systems (HD Base T, VoIP, etc.) that compress/process/decompress the signal and add additional latency. Many newer displays have low-latency game mode (and variable refresh rates) to improve gaming performance. Video distribution would negate those benefits whereas straight HDMI would not.

As everyone else said, Lutron is the reference standard. They have the widest variety of fabrics, the quietest operation, and the longest battery life. But those things have a cost. If low cost is more important than highest quality, then the new IKEA roller blinds are something to consider. They don’t directly integrate into Control4, but can be controlled via the Homebridge driver or with Google voice/IFTTT, but both are more hacks than full integrations.