brantlmcdonald

The voltage is behind a non metallic face like every other switch in a house; not sure why a disposal switch is any more reason for concern than a light switch. Every receptacle you’re plugging devices into has voltage as well. And having one hand in the sink while the disposal is running is never a good idea. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://www.legrand.us/radiant/products/switches/tm870stmwcc6.aspx Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Why would you think that ? Momentary contact switch is also non metallic, and shuts off immediately when you let go. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The momentary contact switch that was discussed in the post above yours is designed for garbage disposals. In fact usually the box or marketing material for them will say “disposal switch.” Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In the pic OP posted, you can see imperfections of the box cutout around the wall plate. I have a question for you though. I was under the impression that SA used UK standard wall boxes and wiring, which would be square style like OP has. Looking at your picture that clearly isn’t the case in your house. Is your house an exception, or is what you have the standard in your area? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The thing about turning into a services company, is that they need you to see their services, which means landing on the home page. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can’t take on any new projects until February of next year. That’s as of today. By the end of this month i will probably be booked up until April. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My own opinion is that apple wants you to land on their home page and not go directly into an app. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Legrand is also part of this group. They'll be releasing some Zigbee devices in the US soon..... Supposedly US product line manager is sending me samples. Haven't talked to them in a couple of months but hopefully I'll see them show up soon.

No, you want to go upstream with the forward phase dimmer. I don’t know of any 12v dimmer that you’ll be able to integrate into C4. 12v AC dimmers do exist, but it will be manual control. Just so we’re clear, a dimmer switch does not change the voltage. If you try to put a 120v dimmer on those LED’s and not use a transformer, you will still have 120v, and you will damage the lamps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, I knew they would be AC. You cannot avoid the transformer. Forward phase dimming because you will have a magnetic transformer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can’t use the C4 plug in dimmer. You need forward-phase dimming (MLV); the plug in dimmer is reverse phase. You can use either the forward-phase or adaptive-phase dimmers from C4. Hardwire the transformer to a circuit extending from the wall dimmer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Because they’re not that level of quality . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I realize this is a C4 forum and what I’m saying can easily be misinterpreted as “trash talking”. I hope to clarify here that isn’t the case. I understand the problems the OP is facing. Maybe a better explanation from me is that C4 keypads are Lexus or Infiniti in a world that is also occupied by Porsche, Ferrari, and Koenigsegg. Nothing wrong with any of them, just different products for different lifestyles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No, the Nuvo keypads are specifically for Nuvo audio systems; it’s a brand under the same parent company as vantage, so they use identical materials and colors. Nuvo integrates with C4 also. If you used vantage keypads you would want to use their dimming and relay modules (or wall dimmers) for lighting but can link button functions through a C4 driver. All of their lighting integrates into C4. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The other option is using the Nuvo keypads for audio controls Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You dedicate a key for vol up and vol down. The C4 volume keys are nice but that is a spot they feel especially flimsy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The fit and finish of that keypad is superior to C4, especially so in the easytouch glass and adorne lines. Vantage also has LCD touch keypads. Also the vantage wall plates are far and above what C4 offers. I’m not a vantage dealer, so I’m not here to sell it, I’m just telling you after using both that the vantage keypads are nicer, but they also cost twice as much. This isn’t to say C4 keypads are “bad”, more so that the two are in a different category of quality. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The C4 keypads are the least expensive, and that’s reflected in the quality. I think Vantage is far ahead of everyone. You also have options like Meljac and Forbes & Lomax if you want very high end keypads that can be used with C4. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I realize this is an old thread but as someone else posted a reply earlier today, it came up in my feed; I wanted to respond to a couple of comments. The C4-KA is a 120-277Vac device; the yellow wire is not “data”, that is at the same voltage as the rest of the system it’s connected to. Also, under no circumstances should you ever connect a neutral and ground together downstream of the main disconnect. Especially in modern electrical systems using arc-fault protection devices. Most brands incorporate some form of GFP protection at the 30ma level, and connecting the ground and neutral will cause those breakers to trip. Off the top of my head I think Siemens is the only manufacturer that doesn’t incorporate GFP in their AFCI devices. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can mount the floor t-stat in a cabinet; I’ve installed them under the sink. Towel bar can be switched via a switch, or a relay if the switch ratings aren’t high enough for your towel bar. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The P300 is a pre-amp. It was probably routed through an audio matrix. Alexa commands will likely not work because it’s just a pre-amp, and cannot turn on whatever amp it’s connected to unless it is sensing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you had an exact equal system as far as dimmers and switches, the RadioRa2 is going to be around 20%+/- more expensive. RadioRa2 uses Maestro controls. The biggest cost difference in addition to the controls is going to be the RadioRa2 repeater vs the Caseta hub, which is about $400 more. RadioRa2 Select allows you to use their occupancy sensors, HVAC controls, and engraved Pico remotes, and is available in satin finishes whereas Caseta is gloss finishes only. Also you can use wireless relays for lighting control; so you could have relays in junction boxes while only using Pico remotes at the wall. RadioRa2 adds the ability to also use GrafikEye and Grafik T dimmers, as well as SeeTouch keypads. It also has an expanded lineup of sensors. You can spend far more dollars moving into those controls. It adds support for their higher end shades. Caseta and RadioRa2 use different apps. Caseta offers IFTTT integration, RadioRa2 does not. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would consider RadioRa2 or Select as well if looking at Lutron. More device and keypad options, and the nicer satin finishes too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk