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Everything posted by brantlmcdonald

  1. I realize this is an old thread but as someone else posted a reply earlier today, it came up in my feed; I wanted to respond to a couple of comments. The C4-KA is a 120-277Vac device; the yellow wire is not “data”, that is at the same voltage as the rest of the system it’s connected to. Also, under no circumstances should you ever connect a neutral and ground together downstream of the main disconnect. Especially in modern electrical systems using arc-fault protection devices. Most brands incorporate some form of GFP protection at the 30ma level, and connecting the ground and neutral will cause those breakers to trip. Off the top of my head I think Siemens is the only manufacturer that doesn’t incorporate GFP in their AFCI devices. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. You can mount the floor t-stat in a cabinet; I’ve installed them under the sink. Towel bar can be switched via a switch, or a relay if the switch ratings aren’t high enough for your towel bar. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. The P300 is a pre-amp. It was probably routed through an audio matrix. Alexa commands will likely not work because it’s just a pre-amp, and cannot turn on whatever amp it’s connected to unless it is sensing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. If you had an exact equal system as far as dimmers and switches, the RadioRa2 is going to be around 20%+/- more expensive. RadioRa2 uses Maestro controls. The biggest cost difference in addition to the controls is going to be the RadioRa2 repeater vs the Caseta hub, which is about $400 more. RadioRa2 Select allows you to use their occupancy sensors, HVAC controls, and engraved Pico remotes, and is available in satin finishes whereas Caseta is gloss finishes only. Also you can use wireless relays for lighting control; so you could have relays in junction boxes while only using Pico remotes at the wall. RadioRa2 adds the ability to also use GrafikEye and Grafik T dimmers, as well as SeeTouch keypads. It also has an expanded lineup of sensors. You can spend far more dollars moving into those controls. It adds support for their higher end shades. Caseta and RadioRa2 use different apps. Caseta offers IFTTT integration, RadioRa2 does not. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. I would consider RadioRa2 or Select as well if looking at Lutron. More device and keypad options, and the nicer satin finishes too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I haven’t experienced any problems with control functionality of Legrand RF controls, but I would like to know what specific issues you’ve had? I’ve had some failures over the years but I’d say it’s not out of the ordinary considering how many I’ve installed. My Legrand reps have always replaced them without question though. Also in case OP didn’t see, if you scroll further down the page you’ll see the decora style Radiant switches that are much less expensive than Adorne. There is a Zigbee version coming soon; idk if it will be compatible with C4 though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. I like these .... https://www.legrand.us/categories/smart-lighting/rf-lighting-controls.aspx Works with C4 via Legrand LC7001 hub. Aren’t you the estimator for an EC? Does your company buy a lot of P&S devices? If so you can likely get decent pricing through your distributor ..... I pay about 40% list for Radiant and 50% list for Adorne you see at the link above. You can’t do things with 3rd party devices as you can with C4 devices like double-tap commands, change the backlighting color, change dimmer ramp rate, etc. Also the Legrand scene controllers are not visible within Control4 and can’t be used to activate C4 created scenes. They also cannot be engraved. You can create lighting scenes within C4 that are activated through the app, C4 keypad, or their touchscreen controller, or you can create lighting scenes in the LC7001 hub to use with the Legrand scene controller. Those scenes can then be imported to Composer. You could always just use a C4 scene controller as well in conjunction with Legrand devices. Would need to use satin color finishes for C4 devices to match the Legrand colors. MSRP for a C4 120v configurable keypad is $250 btw. The Nuvo stuff I told you about at the other board also has C4 drivers, matching keypads in both switch aesthetics... NV-P10 for Radiant, NV-P20-AD for Adorne. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. I would be cautious about installing the equipment (drivers & transformers) inside the C4 enclosure and violating the listing and warranty. I do not know the specific listing of the C4 equipment, but I would verify before proceeding. Whatever you do make sure you are compliant with NEC 725 when mixing class I and class II circuits. I would not recommend a 50’ run at 12v, even with 14awg. At 1.5A you’d be dropping 3.5%. 24v would be ideal. Idk what your actual current draw is on the tape lighting; 1.5A is conservative. I always look for somewhere within the cabinets to mount drivers when doing an install like this. If nothing else, install a separate enclosure near the C4 enclosure for the drivers. Something like an Eaton “telephone” enclosure works nice. It’s a NEMA-1 enclosure with a hinged door and has an optional flush trim ring. You also don’t necessarily need three transformers; a single adequately sized transformer could power all three drivers, and the 0-10v dimming allows you to set different levels. You could also consider skipping the 0-10v entirely and just use 120v dimmable drivers connected to your existing dimming module or a C4 dimmer switch. 0-10v dimming isn’t something I look for in LED tape dimming. I would typically only use that when you have several fixtures in a large area that are all commonly off/on but require different lighting levels, or require precise dimming below 10%. Also it’s the standard in architectural grade and commercial LED fixtures. If you’re goal is to go below 10%, by all means go with 0-10v. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. To be clear to OP, that driver will require an external power source, 12/24v. You will need to connect the driver to a transformer controlled by 120v coming from a C4 switch or 8-channel relay. You will program the switch or relay to power on/off the driver, and the 0-10v connection will be for dimming control only. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. 0-10v is an analog dimming controller. It’s not designed to provide power to any device. An LED driver designed for 0-10v dimming would typically have 4 wires; black & white for 120v, and grey/purple for 0-10v dimming. You supply 120v to the driver, and the 0-10v lines are used to signal the dimming state to the driver, in simplest terms. The light engine is independent of the dimming capabilities of the driver. You would need an LED driver that meets the power specifications of your LED tape that also has 0-10v. Some drivers will dim to 0%, most will not, in which case you also need an 8-channel relay in your system to turn the drivers off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Is it possible to program a momentary contact switch connected to a DCIM4 to have a hold-to-dim capability like a C4 dimmer? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. current integrations..... https://orro.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/categories/360002677633-Integrations
  13. For smart switches that’s right. Mechanical C4 switches don’t list a HP rating (most brands do), only that it’s rated for 15A. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. It won’t be QMotion. That company was acquired by Legrand and is part of the building control systems division. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. AFAIK, you will have to install an intellitouch panel to integrate an intelliflo pump. If you had this panel, other integrations would include temp control (if you have a heated/cooled pool) and jandy valve control for water features, spa, etc... Edit to add....: you can still do on/off with a variable speed pump on a simple timer. Generally though I don’t think they’re ever really programmed to go off when set as a stand-alone without an automation panel. at least not those I deal with as an electrical contractor that does a lot of pool installs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. are you asking the difference between using a Pentair panel vs. C4 switch & relay?
  17. I see. just curious. someone else posted something here recently about connecting w/ a modbus device and there was a link to a modbus driver. I do know these touch panels work with a variety of different modbus software apps.... basically just an interface to link a button push to a relay somewhere. they're not too complicated.
  18. add a pentair pool panel for extensive pool function control.... or, if you only want on/off & scheduling, you can connect a wireless C4 switch to a N/O contactor and set it up that way. Just a definite purpose (probably 30A) 2-pole contactor w/ 120v coil.
  19. you think its entirely impossible? almost all of them are RS485 devices, and I know C4 makes an RS485 gateway.
  20. Search online for “modbus touch panel switch” or something along those lines. You’ll find dozens. i would think it’s possible to use the C4 Bus Ethernet Gateway and a modbus driver with C4 to integrate it. But I really have no idea if that works.
  21. This looks like one of the cheap touch panels you can get on alibaba..... which sounds about right for a W hotel. Most of them utilize RS485. There are several companies building guest room management systems; some of the nicer of which are Legrand UX or Schneider EcoStruxure.
  22. That’s great to know, thank you so much Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Thanks for that.... I checked the datasheet on some of their products and they're rated for 200-260v 50/60z; I'm working w/ 120v 60hz. But, what you linked looks identical to the Control4 DCIM4 product. Have you done any programming with the Rako product within control4? I've been reading quite a bit and I'm pretty certain it'll do mostly what I want. What I'm thinking through now though is a scenario where the user would turn lighting on with the toggle switch connected to the dry contact, but then turn the loads off within the Control4 app; how would you then go about having the loads come back on without first having to cycle the switch "off"? I've found online where someone has detailed how to convert the Legrand adorne switches I want to use into a momentary contact switch so that switch position is irrelevant to the user; If lights are off, depress the switch to turn on. If they're on, depress the switch so the load turns off. Is it possible to program the following scenario.... 1) Depress momentary contact switch to toggle on 'Load 1'. Depress the switch again and it turns 'Load 1' off. 2) Assume 'Load 1' is now on, and use the Control4 app/touchscreen to turn 'Load 1' off. 3) Depress momentary contact switch again, but Control4 would need to understand that 'Load 1' is already off, so the user is now trying to turn 'Load 1' back on. 
 The goal here is to have the toggle switch to be able to turn lights off/on, and use the Vantage keypad to control dimming and/or scenes. The Vantage system is only being used for their keypads, all of the programming would be done in Control4. Thanks for the help. Attached is a CAD mockup of what the wall station would look like. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. I’ve installed the configurable keypads, and while I like them, they actuate the same as the Legrand switches I have now. And also they don’t match the Adorne style. I’ve sent this question to a vantage dealer as well to see if their din-mounted dry contacts will accomplish this. I talked to the Control4 dealer I work with today and he’s unsure how it would work. I told him I may just order a few pieces for testing and go from there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. At the end of this year I’ll be buying or building a new house. Wife has let it be known she absolutely hates “smart switches.” Currently using Legrand Radiant devices linked to HomeKit; she doesn’t like the push button type of switch that all smart switches are. She wants latching type on/off; something that “clicks.” Anyway, I’m an electrical contractor. My plan moving into a new home was to use a combination of Legrand WiFi Adorne and Legrand Vantage Adorne keypads integrated into Control4, but that’s now out of the question. I’m intent on using Adorne devices (again, I’m an EC, I buy a lot of Legrand), so I’m looking at either the Control4 DCIM4 module or using the Vantage equivalent. My question is on programming .... Scenario is living room & kitchen area. Let’s say there are 6 separate lighting loads here, and we set it up where closing the contact on the DCIM4 turns all of them on to a preset scene. Now let’s say somewhere in the room there is an actual scene controller, and we use that to make a scene change. If she hits the wall switch again to open the contacts on the DCIM4, can it then turn all of those loads off if the scene has been altered? Basically it needs to always be able to turn all lights on and the back off when selected. Because more than likely what’s going to happen is I’ll use all of the vantage panelized lighting products so I can use Adorne scene controllers, but I want Control4 handling all the scenes. Will be using 0-10v dimmable fixtures and some tunable white. I’m not against using Control4 panelized lighting, but I will be using the vantage Adorne keypads and I felt like keeping all of the lighting controls within the vantage system is probably a better setup than mix & match controls and modules between brands. I’m not a vantage dealer, but I can get the parts I need. I have a local Control4 dealer I partner with which is the main reason for wanting to go Control4; to have someone local. I haven’t discussed this with him yet but asking here to get a wider feedback audience. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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