brantlmcdonald

I wonder if you have an issue with your bridge. As for all of the lamps coming on after power-cycling, you need set the “power on behavior “ for each lamp to stop this. You can connect hue lamps to 3rd party zigbee gateways (idk about C4 integration with that) but you lose all of the Hue scenes/features, unless you also connect to them via bluetooth. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

110, 111, whatever it takes Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, no, thats incorrect. I'm an electrical contractor covering about 500+ jurisdictions across multiple states. I say that to point out I'm as qualified as anyone you know to give you the correct information.

The construction standardization board for each state is the ultimate authority, and is generally comprised of individuals that can correctly interpret the code. Local AHJ's work under the authority granted to them by the state.

The inspector could say the sky is purple, and it doesn't make him right. The local inspector isn't the end-all of code enforcement.

Yes it can be hard to understand, which is why I'm explaining to OP here. NEC is my area of expertise.

That wall switch can be a Phillips hue battery operated switch. The only outlet required is for the fixture itself. Nowhere in the nec does it actually require the switch to be physically wired to the fixture. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Use generac load shedding devices. If your generator isn’t large enough to handle the connected loads, whoever installed it should have included these. Generac calls it the “Smart Management Module.” They are available in 50A, 100A, and a new dry relay variant with 10 switches. Your Generac transfer switch also has 4x dry contact load-shed relays built-in that can be used to disconnect the 12v supply between the thermostat and AHU. Or they could be used to control power to auxiliary relays. You can set the SMM’s to full lockout, or prioritize loads ranging 1-8. They are frequency based, and 8 is the hard limit on frequency settings. You can have more than 8, but priorities would be duplicated. For notifications you have two options; the Generac branded app (monthly fee required), or use the auxiliary relay within each switch to power off/on an ice cube relay that could then be routed to a C4 I/o module and create a custom notification. The auxiliary relay I’m referring to here is a micro switch that is built into the transfer mechanism. If you open the transfer switch cabinet you’ll see it centered on the right side of the transfer mechanism. There’s a third option also with the I/o relay where you could simply tap 240v off the N1 & N2 leads in the transfer switch, use those to power a 240v ice cube relay, and connect your i/o input to the NO contacts of the relay. When power is off, the contacts close, inputs a signal to the i/o module in C4. Edit to add…. Your C4 equipment and internet connection would need to be on a UPS to maintain a connection for these notifications to work. One other option too is that the auxiliary relay in the transfer switch could be used to power a device that has the ability to notify you when power is lost. It’s more simple than I’m likely making it sound here. But the short of it is, the equipment you need to make this work is already available within your setup. Oooone more edit…. [emoji2]…. If you really want to get wild with it, you could have one relay powered by N1/N2 to report power loss, another relay connected to auxiliary switch to report successful transfer switch operation, and a 3rd relay connected to the generator power leads to report the generator is supplying power. Many possibilities. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Both Vantage and Lutron offer listed LiteTouch retrofits that can integrate with C4. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tapatalk working…. Thanks for getting it fixed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is it a permanent standby or portable generator? I've seen portables wreak havoc with control systems due to frequency drift.

So do you use the standard decora style C4 switches or the square switches in South Africa ? That receptacle in your pic is Legrand Arteor I think? I was told by my Legrand rep they are going to release a C4 driver for the Netatmo Zigbee devices, which is available in the Arteor line, as well as Living Light and Bticino. They just released the Netatmo stuff in the US, and it’s replacing the RFLC line that had a C4 driver. The RFLC line worked flawlessly with C4.

I replaced all of my wall switches with adorne... its not very noticeable how far off the wall they are due to the beveled edge of the wall plates; especially with the black backing. I also have the glass mirror white wallplates, and its probably even less noticeable with those vs. the matte finish plates. Im curious to see just how well received the new contemporary devices are. They definitely needed an update, and I'm sure part of the challenge was making buttons that were compatible with existing installations.

Does that mean a Contemporary wallplate opening is too small for a standard decora switch or receptacle?

If the driver is capable of 0% dimming, no additional relay is needed. If the driver is not capable of 0% dimming, then yes, you need a C4 relay/switch to toggle off/on.

Apple is saying you will need a wired DAC to listen to hi-res lossless, as the built-in DAC of the iPhone/iPad doesn’t support it. can’t find any clear answers as to whether “cd quality” lossless is available over AirPlay.

The circuit breakers won’t cause an issue with your lighting controls; that sounds like a power quality issue. what is the brand of circuit breaker? The first thing to do is find out why it’s tripping; could be an arc fault, could be a ground fault, could be an overload. Some breakers have an indicating light, some have specific ways of re-setting to determine what caused the trip. Get back to me with the type, preferably a pic, and I’ll try to help you. My first thought in reaction to what you describe is that there’s likely an issue with the neutral wire from your incoming service, or possibly some induced current on the grounding system. how many breakers are tripping? And what are the breaker space numbers in your panel?

I hope someone else will reply if I’m wrong, but I believe because the pico is not a load device, it will not be exposed to C4. Pico scene programming will have to be done within the lutron software.

It wouldn’t talk to the t-stat. In the way I’ve installed them, the t-stat remains on a constant temperature, I just used the switch connected to a relay to switch the floor and towel bar together via scheduled off/on times. That way the floor and towel bar isn’t on all the time.

That switch by code is supposed to be installed in a way the pool remains in sight. I wouldn’t connect a pool cover to any remote controlling system. It’s not a risk worth taking.

That’s a nice feature. I believe that is a function of the new Big Sur OS and not specifically M1 MacBooks.

That support frame is made to sit on top of a wall; it looks like in your installation the support frame recesses into the box. you will likely need to fabricate spacers to allow you to tighten the frame down but also have it protrude outside the box enough to snap the cover on.

Nuvo P400

Tapatalk error indicates this site is blocking it. Can’t login or view any forums.

It’s ok for you to be wrong . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk