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I didn’t really answer your question. You can keep it connected to the ea3.  

Control4 recommends to not use ZAP servers anymore. 
You would just create completely separate Zigbee Server on each new controller.  
Example:
A 10000sqft home needs multiple zigbee servers as 1) they most likely have more than 70 devices, and 2) the strength of the zigbee network decreases the further away you go from that controller. In a project, we used an EA-5 to run just director in the basement rack. Not running zigbee at all, just a dedicated director to speed up the system. Then we added EA-1 behind TV's for OSD and of course zigbee mesh. In spots that had weak signals, adding CA-1 fixes that. 
 
Zigbee needs to be setup correctly otherwise your whole system is bogged down. The correct way is multiple zigbee servers spread across the house covering every sqft similar to a wifi network. 
 
 
 

As Former Galactic President, you have every right to ask!

How does the Zigbee mesh fit into all of this?  If said 10,000 ft^2 has dimmers and keypads in each room doesn't that strengthen the Zigbee network?  Or do you still need another controller (aside from the number of devices per controller)?
Sorry if it seems like I am being a jerk, I am just trying to understand how the Zigbee network works.

hes talking about the Zigbee extender antenna. 
One more thing.. Control4 has been saying not to do ZAP anymore.  Just simply create seperate Zigbee servers and when identifying devices , choose the closest EA controller 

Ecobee thermostat.

Tp link wireless outlets. Required paid driver. Works great

I have an EA5 in the bsement rack and 1 Ea1 behind 5 TV's thoughout the home. We really like the On screen Navigator display on the TVs 
Especially if you have Ip cameras, now you can see these cameras on all of your TV's

I would recommend definitely adding an EA-1 behind the TV and have your dealer separate out the Zigbee Servers so now you will have 2 zigbee servers (I would only do this step if you have a number of zigbee devices. Control4 recommends no more than 70 zigbee devices on one mesh. If you are close to that number, then add that second server.) 
I would talk to your dealer as they are the ones who can guide you in the right direction.
 
Also there is no negative to adding another controller. It will only speed up your system (either director or zigbee) if programmed correctly. 
 

Yes. If you do , then off network scanning 
 

The EA-1 doesn't have any dry contacts.  It only outputs HDMI, IR and serial.  There is no reason why an additional controller should cause issues, many C4 systems have many controllers - one at each TV.
 

This amp is a matrix amp.  The inputs are not tied to each output, they are selectable via the Control4 software, or via the dial on the front of the unit. The folks here will likely prefer Control4 as it is a more open system and can do a lot more than just music.  

I was in a deep funk - you may have read some of my posts here about taking over a C4 install after a recent home purchase.  It was a disaster - all the lights in a single room, old never-updated drivers, no real "cool" parts of c4 working .... and then Mitch saved the day.  And a lot of dollars!   Mitch did a great health-check, got me squared away, did some composer/HE review and set my system in tip-top shape.
No more IR drivers!  Roku Channels (Netflix, Hulu, etc..) right on the remote!  Cool sounds play in the house when the Ring detects motion!
Thanks, Mitch!  Highly recommend.

MyQ does show feedback but some of my customers have noticed issues with delayed feedback and no feedback at all when opening it from another source not C4. I would recommend a zigbee contact sensor on the bottom (some do bottom and top so you can know if its half open) or a garage tilt sensor.

No, apple tv driver doesn't have mini apps. Roku has the best mini app integration followed by firestick in my personal opinion.

There is also a free (I think it is still free) third party driver that allows you to set a number of the more important settings via C4 programming.  Why these are not in the DS2 driver beats me!

In the end that's something to take up with Crave/Shaw - not Roku.
 
Roku is about as open as it gets to allow any channels on their devices, but if they don't get made....

You can get more then 1...

It's going out tonight

Not possible. C4 hardware only works w c4 controllers. Buy an ea1 or maybe even a 250 or 800 if you are truly only going to use those handful of switches

With the Wake/Sleep agent, it goes off of the room. Meaning you can only put the wake sleep agent in a room once and configure it from there. You can have it setup to go off certain times but the issue with that is the agent uses active days. Meaning whatever time it is set to is the same on all active days. If a day is not selected as an active day in that room wake/sleep, nothing will go off on that day. From my understanding if you wanted to add different timers for different days in the same room, you would do that like you said through programming.

Also I like to use the Security Light Driver by Control4. It is great for secondary motion areas (closets, some hallways, garage, sheds, possibly bathrooms). It allows you to connect a motion sensor to a light in the house and set how long you want the light to stay on for, the ramp rates, and more all while avoiding programming. I have been using it for the past few months in my home and in many customers homes to avoid touchy programming and get the best results. Give it a try and let me know what you think. It has replaced tons of programming time and troubleshooting at least for me!
Good luck!

I have C4 keypads control the charging and climate for my Tesla Model S.  I can push a button in my bedroom to turn on the climate controls so that my car can be nice and warm when I get in on a cold winter day.  The LED colours also indicate charging status.  This is kind of a klugey setup as it requires an additional PC with a web browser to accept commands and send them to the Tesla API.