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Best RGBW Light strip solution for Control4?


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Hi there,

I have been wondering about the best mid-range (not overly priced) solution for integrating RGBW light strips/tape light into control4. I have seen DMX systems using an RS232 DMX bridge, or IP-based DMX bridge and separate drivers/controllers for each light. Are there any all-in-one solutions such as IP-based LED light strip controllers? I have heard of Ketra from Lutron but that seems quite high-end, and on the budget side I have also seen govee's integration using a third-party driver, however, I was looking for a wired-in solution.

What do most of you guys typically use or recommend? 

Thanks for the assistance!

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Just now, Shoe said:

What does "wired-in" mean to you? How long do you think your runs will be? All interior? How sensitive are you to flicker?

Wired in being wired communication start to finish. However, I am open to wireless options if they are reliable. Yes all interior and runs < 100ft

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12 minutes ago, Andrew luecke said:

Honestly, I'd recommend the Shelly RGBW2 over Govee. Whilst it's not wired in, we have a lot of people using it, and in my experience they're fairly reliable (I actually use one at my own place)

 

Andy

I'll second the rgbw2 with the chowmain agent. I have 6 of them in my project setup in 4 channel mode for white strips. They've been rock solid. 

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2 minutes ago, SpencerT said:

I'll second the rgbw2 with the chowmain agent. I have 6 of them in my project setup in 4 channel mode for white strips. They've been rock solid. 

How do these communicate with the Control4 system? Wifi? Zigbee?

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Do you need white color temp control plus color? That's called RGBCCT. You can do it two ways. RGBCCT strips or RGB strips and CCT strips in parallel. This is desirable in kitchens so you can get bright enough counter light in white and the color temp you want at specific times. Like 4000 during the day and 2700 or 2200 dimmed down at night. Shelly can't do RGBCCT strips because they are a 4 channel controller and you need 5 channels for RGBCCT, but you can run them in parallel.

What's the application?

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7 minutes ago, Shoe said:

Do you need white color temp control plus color? That's called RGBCCT. You can do it two ways. RGBCCT strips or RGB strips and CCT strips in parallel. This is desirable in kitchens so you can get bright enough counter light in white and the color temp you want at specific times. Like 4000 during the day and 2700 or 2200 dimmed down at night. Shelly can't do RGBCCT strips because they are a 4 channel controller and you need 5 channels for RGBCCT, but you can run them in parallel.

What's the application?

Yes it would be nice to also have the while colours integrated. 

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2 minutes ago, Shoe said:

Do you need white color temp control plus color? That's called RGBCCT. You can do it two ways. RGBCCT strips or RGB strips and CCT strips in parallel. This is desirable in kitchens so you can get bright enough counter light in white and the color temp you want at specific times. Like 4000 during the day and 2700 or 2200 dimmed down at night. Shelly can't do RGBCCT strips because they are a 4 channel controller and you need 5 channels for RGBCCT, but you can run them in parallel.

What's the application?

Technically, chowmain light group can emulate CCT now too.. but you would need to test if its suitable for your use-case (as there are limitations to the emulation, and some limitations with the precision available too)

But I agree, this all depends on the usecase

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Rgb= 4 wire

rgbw= 5 wire

rgbcct= 6 wire

Nothing wrong with going the DMX route.  Tried and true method that’s been around.  Plus, the less off my wifi the better.

Engineering Solutions or Axion for the controller and pair with whatever drivers and power supplies you choose. 

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Just now, lippavisual said:

Rgb= 4 wire

rgbw= 5 wire

rgbcct= 6 wire

Nothing wrong with going the DMX route.  Tried and true method that’s been around.  Plus, the less off my wifi the better.

Engineering Solutions or Axion for the controller and pair with whatever drivers and power supplies you choose. 

18 gauge wire should be suitable for 95% of homes.  Try to stick with 24v. 

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2 hours ago, Carter Hobson said:

Has anyone had any experience with the DCM5? Looks like a suitable all-in-one solution. Is this native C4 Zigbee? 

It's the one Control4 sells for their Linear lighting line.

If its for Fun the Shelly (Govee, Hue) is great and cheap, if it's Function (it's a daily use and not just accent, and I'm going to get upset if it goes offline for whatever reason) then DMX or Axxess.

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Love my Govee screen back lighting with camera tracking - and love that I can have it just turn on/off with the system but that's as far as I'd go with them. Cloud control and max calls (though decently high max)

HUE works well and is reliable, but not ideal for integrated advanced programming.

Shelly is a good option if you're 'just' looking to add something after the fact.

DMX (and there's many options and details there on it's own) for standard rgb(w). Axxess, Mirus and several options out there that all integrate well with C4.

If going pixel, don't expect to pogram anything advanced in C4 - get a DigiDot, create scenes there (or to be exact, create scenes with a laptiopp based pixel software and record them with digidot), then create artnet triggers to start any scene: you can then use the free artnet driver from c4 to add 'switches' to start and stop those scenes.

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On 3/7/2024 at 10:16 AM, chopedogg88 said:

I have a Philips Hue led strip under counter in my bar and it integrates very nicely with Control4 with no 3rd party driver required.

They work well if you just need a small strip but if you are doing long strips Hue becomes very expensive compared to generic strips and controllers.

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1 hour ago, c44me said:

Contmeplating getting one for the bedroom OLED...

 

I think the Govee is the most believable if you can accept the camera presence.

 

On 3/7/2024 at 2:53 PM, Cyknight said:

Love my Govee screen back lighting with camera tracking

 

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11 hours ago, Shoe said:

 

I think the Govee is the most believable if you can accept the camera presence.

 

 

Mine is on top of my projector screen, and the lighting of course behind it - of course I'm running a glass screen so not the norm visually.

For me the camera isn't obtrusive at all - and I'd rather have the camera then an HDMI in between (projector is 4K HDR but also 120 Hz for gaming - HDMI specs change to often anyway).

It's a 'cool' factor more than anything, but man is it fun to watch light-saber fights with the backlighting tracking the on-screen visuals.

 

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