lippavisual

OK I'll bite. Documentation is below. Hardware Setup · Make sure that the TV and controller in the same Local Area Network. Connected by either wired or wireless means. Control Connection Setup · Enable the “Control4 Port” on TV under the directory “Settings à Advanced System à Control4 Control Port”. · Launch Composer on a PC and search for the desired TV to connect. Driver Setup · Add the driver in Composer software. Properties explanation · These commands can be accessed via Programming or Custom Buttons: number, channel up/down, direction, volume +/-, mute on/off. Manufacture Technical support contact information: · To give us a call 1.888.935.8880 · To shoot us an email service@hisense-usa.com AC power off precautions · due to TV hardware limitations, in the event of a power failure, once power is returned the TV will need to be manually turned on via OEM remote or hard power button on TV to regain control. RELEASE NOTES: Version 1 -Initial Release

I'm in the other camp of going to a network switch. But I also create a separate security camera VLAN. I also don't typically use standard NVR's but rather Synology NAS and use Surveillance Station.

Not a TV but a projector. Haven’t worked with them before but what driver are you using? What does the documentation say? my guess would be that there’s some energy savings setting on it that needs to be disabled, in order to keep the Network control available during standby.

Yes using the Yale/August IP driver

I'm wondering why you'd do this? You can't view the displays from either location, so why? I can think of a few reasons why, as a guest, I wouldn't like knowing about this capability!

Always found Nest to be meh.

This is what I have, touchscreen version with wifi: https://shopyalehome.com/pages/yale-assure-lock-2 This has wifi and bluetooth built-in and works perfectly with the Yale Access app. Very easy to install and mine replaced an original C4 Zigbee Kwikset lock. I also like the added feature of the included door sensor. This allows the lock to know if the door is fully closed, partially open or fully open. Prevents the door lock from being locked if any of the open door variables are true, when auto-lock is turned ON.

That would work in a pinch. Or if you have a newer audio matrix from Triad, there is a 2.1 option that will lock the input to 2 audio outputs so you can do exactly what you're asking.

If your lock came with the wifi module, use the Yale/August IP driver. I use it at my own home.

No problem.

There is the Pulse Eight 16x32 and 32x32 Audio switches available on the dealer portal now. You can't use controllers to pass matrix audio unless you want delay (from being digitized) going to the other matrix. Frankly, that just wouldn't be a good outcome either. How many inputs are you talking about? The above switches should cover all, if not most, jobs. Dante can be used, albeit from other manufacturers, but that would all depend on the design. I come from the commercial AV world and I've been asking for Dante enabled products since its inception.

It's the multi-purpose inwall box: C4-MPIWB-BL

Yes, I’ve done it. C4 has an inwall box specifically for the Triad One.

There is a location where you can install a wireless relay, but that just gives you On/Off control. No other way to do flame height or colored lighting. To be honest, I was never really a fan of fireplace integration, too much liability. The cons certainly outweigh the pros in my eyes.

EFire control app is Bluetooth, have a Napoleon at my house. Integration wasn’t important to me because it’s rarely used and only in the winters.

Should be no problem at least that I know of. The controller will do volume.

There’s a 3rd party driver for Samsung commercial displays. Forget which marketplace has it though.

Sorry got the series numbers mixed up.

Clarevision and Geovision, I believe are.

Hik

Even lutron Serena is out of budget? In my experience, the cheaper the shade, QC goes out the window, motors are “much” louder and control is lacking. Lutron checks all of the boxes.

120 devices of what? If zigbee, get another controller and add another zigbee server/mesh.

Yes it’s a wiring problem. Your keypad should remain powered at all times. LED lights on the keypad powering off when the dimmer turns off, sounds like you’ve wired the keypad wrong. The dimmer controls the light load using the red wire. If you have a 14/3 wire (red traveler) from the dimmer box to where the keypad is, then cap the red in both boxes. Tie the neutral and hot of the 14/3 to the neutral and hot at the dimmer box. Now this will send 120v to your keypad box. Keypad only requires neutral, hot and ground. if none of this makes sense, hire an electrician. Seriously. there are many ways to skin this cat but all depends how the wiring is done.

7 is higher than 3, no? Command set hasn’t changed much in a long while . C4 database drivers haven’t given me any problems. Update the display then read the documentation for the driver or one similar. In the advanced properties, enable all the timers and set the delays (these should have been enabled by default when the driver was added). My input delay is set to 2000 milliseconds.

Check remote central.com for a converter.