Cyknight

They're in the online database

This can be done in HE just fine.

yes 422 to 232. Notre that AFAIK at this point in time you'll need a POWERED converter (not port-powered)

To be fair, by the time you've bought a IT-230 and the converter, for existing setups it may be cheaper to use that driver instead (easier if nothing else).

FYI, the new DSC security drivers are now available for use via Control4. NOTE that for the older POWERPC series, a swap needs to be mad to an it-230 (not the older it-100) which also means a RS422 to 232 adapter will be needed. The driver for the DSC NEO unit (using the TL-280) is able to do rs232 (again using adapter as above) or IP. Before jumping the gun - please note that there may be version requirements for your panel (PC series in particular) to be able to use the new modules. Oh and don't ask about other brands/Honeywell - I don't have the answer on when

The last link is indeed ONLY about T3 and yes it works the same for EA (separate tab in the agent - different aspect ratio). There are 'hack' ways of doing it on older devices (and no I'm not going to into it).

I would look at the security panel - first, one would assume the exit lights and latching is a matter of some odd programming in the panel itself - the feedback you see is coming from the panel - not C4 itself. As for quick-arm, this may be a problem with the version - or double check you indeed have quick-arm enabled (and not quick-exit)

Sounds like the old security driver is still the security endpoint for those rooms. Beyond that it is STRONGLY recommended to not add a security driver to a project that already has one. Delete both - start anew.

The programming itself is as simple as it gets - there's a 'disarm' action right under the driver (select the partition, not the 'main' driver) - assuming you have that 'default code' set, that's all it needs.

You assume wrong - it works fine on the Concord4, though I cannot speak for others. You can no longer program 'key presses' as you once could - and yes you would create a separate user and code - those credentials then get entered under the appropriate partition(s) and you can programmatically disarm. Arming also assumes it will not require a code to arm.

And how are they doing there? It will kill it internationally because they are not focused on those markets - nor will they have a direct desire to do so. Incorporating a single device function like SLING while still selling it abroad is a far cry from turning their boxes into full-fledged automation systems - and still selling and supporting such a setup across the world. It would make far more financial sense for them to PARTNER with an automation system then to buy one.

It would kill all international association. How would that deal with Dish's competitors - both internationally and locally? Where would Dish take it as far as R&D goes? If it were to happen - it would end up a disaster for the home automation side. And I really don't see it benefiting Dish at all either. That's apart from the fact that adding a ZigBee radio to one device is a long stretch from getting into 'home automation' (which is NOT adding a few lighting controls to a remote) - let alone taking over a company far removed from their target market.

Wow. Impressive work around. Of course, you COULD just use the 'old' play/pause code that is posted several times across the dealer forums (or learn it yourself from an old AppleTV remote). Seems like a much simpler solution if you ask me....but to each their own. 0000 006D 0044 0000 0157 00AC 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0689 0157 00AC 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0689

Err no he isn't. For instant disarming purposes only a default user code needs to be added to the driver - which should not be your master code but a normal code

The driver won't 'set up' ANY partition, it just reads what partitions are on the system. 6 partition sub-drivers (the max) are added to the system by default but disabled if not available. Other than deleting the driver and re-adding - I'd look at the panel first and foremost for this. Sorry missed this. Any sensors connected there wouldn't be affected (for the record)

As per above, no it won't remove the audio - alternate to volume is to check if the TV has the option to turn speakers off (comes in many different forms). As for making your connections, yes you connect the HDMI 3.5mm outs to the matrix - the system iteself will take care of all the proper switching without further 'interference'

The built in stereo audio switch in the matrix is a fully separated audio switch. As such you COULD feed the hdmi stereo out into either your audio matrix switch. This would create a multi-level matrix however - something LONG very strongly discourage by Control4 (with good reason as it certainly created problems). Now - more recently people at C4 have claimed this problem should be fixed. I've heard a select few state similar issues as in the past howver. I've simply stuck to the old ways. YMMV however - it is as it stand currently not against 'policy' to do HDMI matrix audio out to Audio matrix switch. The advantage of using the HDMI matrix is that it has a built-in audio delay. However you are adding an additional step to your audio path already CAUSING a delay - so you may find your audio delayed already - and no audio delay control can make audio go faster. In addition, only 2ch pcm will be output through the 3.5mm.

Those adapter plates were never MEANT for the T3 series of screens - they were for the Infinity edge 7". Your best bet is to use a 10"

Looking at the picture - there's a remote unit as well? Is there an end-cap on the final piece?

That (range voltage) would be illegal for anything that is considered part of a structure I believe. As to why there isn't a 220 version, not sure - could have something to do with how 110 is wired vs 220 in this particular case though.

Existing sensors will need to be re-connected to the new driver. Programming DIRECT from the panel (ie when in alarm, but NOT programming based off the sensors) will need to be redone. As far as doing security is concerned - it's not hard at all - there's just a LOT of reading...and you have to go through every step meticulously. Because if you ARE getting errors once all is said and done - it can be hard then to trace it down.

You're 'blaming' the wrong party here. All other 'control' systems would have the EXACT same issue.

Again - OP wasn't TALKING about URC the BRAND but as a short for universal remote codes - the codes you enter into your 'generic' remote or your cable/sat providers remote to control TV as well as box....

Really? Wonder which code you used? The motorola one? Or perhaps RCA or the Radioshack one? In this case URC stands for the generic term - not the company PS I edited my original post to make that a bit clearer

URC (as in not the brand but the codes for generic universal remotes) codes are meaningless for C4. What you'd have to do is learn in the codes for the input changes. If the remote you have has actual buttons for each input - you're golden, but any half-decent dealer would have been able to do that. Lacking that, depending on how the TV works, a custom macro may be possible. This will largely hinge on if a) the tv doesn't auto-jump inputs that it doesn't see a signal on and if there is SOME way of discretely getting back to the built in tuner (ie a separate button to do so, or a channel up command brings you there). Lacking that - you'll have to start searching for IR hex codes and good luck there. One final option that you MAY have available is to check if Logitech has a driver for your or a close model - and see if it has discrete input codes. If it does, you could get whatever base (cheap) model from logitech you can get, add the TV there and use that remote to learn the codes into Control4.