therockhr

you may want to give that driver another chance. I installed it about 8 months ago and it has worked without issue. I was hesitant based on the feedback from this site but it is solid for me.

Depending on your IO and audio needs an EA-1 would be an adequate replacement (EA1 and EA3 are the same in respect to processing power). How many streams of audio do you use on your HC800 and what IO ports are you using? these are the questions you need to find out.

How did you try integrating them at first? Was it just by using the same caseta dimmer driver? did you try using the Ra2 select dimmer? to add the caseta fan control I had to use the Ra2 select fan control driver. I have been wanting to get a couple of these diva dimmers for my basement but I dont really want to have to redo all my existing lighting to use the new lutron leap integration.

i only have 1 ATV in my house but i have never had an issue with the official IP driver. it has stayed working through multiple updates. Not disputing your experience just giving mine. I was hesitant to even get one after hearing all the issues on here but so far I have never even had to reauthenticate.

If your audio matrix can take digital audio inputs you could run a coax from your CORE1's back to the matrix and not have to worry about the TV part.

How big are your alls systems? My ea-1 stays around 15-20%.

There are a good sized subset of customers still using a HC800 (probably more than use the OSD) but that didnt stop Control4 from EOLing it The OSD just seems redundant in the age of smartphones and tablets. Ive heard the arguments for it but in every situation a device nearby like a smartphone, tablet or Control4 touchscreen would be just as good or not better. Dealers would probably sell a few more mobile tablets if they got rid of it. It just doesnt seem worth the effort. Maybe its not that big a deal and the code base for the tablets is similar and its more of just a hardware thing in the controller.

Control4 would save a lot of time and effort if they would just get rid of the on screen display.

what model number? What router are you using with it? I get wanting to get the best speed but i dont need the absolute best speed with wireless clients, I just need them to connect and work reliably. The things I need that kind of performance out of I have hardwired. Seems a lot of times 1 or 2 strategically place AP's would work for like 99% of homes.

I have no experience with the mesh systems but this seems to be the consensus. There are lots of installers on the Remote Central forum who love Eero for all installs regardless of mesh or not.

just bought one new. haha. thank you anyway though.

Looking to buy a C4-RBATT-250.

@eggzloti wanted to follow up with you on this. I am using the Honeywell RTH8500WF thermostat which is several years old. This is on the old Honeywell Total Connect platform. I think the T10 is on the Honeywell Home platform. I think they use the same Control4 driver but not for sure.

this is a pretty good way to think about it. my thermostat is definitely in that category. I never had it integrated until they made the driver free. That and Aprilaire thermostats seem to just be higher than most others as well. I wish I could find the quote but a C4 executive years ago said they hoped to never make another thermostat. It was more talking about a direction to be more software oriented but I think it would probably still ring true even though they seem to not be afraid of making new hardware. It does seem like they have shifted their focus more to audio so I could see that being their last thermostat.

i dont know. haha. I figured the lack of C4 scheduling and cloud driver requirement would be turn offs for someone wanting C4 integration. But from the looks of it, just about everything but the C4 thermostat is going to be a cloud driver. I also dont really even use scheduling so that part doesnt matter to me either. so all in all the integration works fine for me. while I wouldnt "recommend it" i guess i wouldnt want to dissuade someone either. It works. I also cant speak on the programming aspect either as I just havent done anything against it. Years ago this wasnt a built in driver and was really expensive. That has changed though. Honeywell makes solid products so you dont have to worry about the actual thermostat not performing. It sounds like this may be a good option for you.

How much is the triad matrix and amp? You could use something like a Russound Mca-88 that would do the same thing. Don’t know if it’s cheaper or not

Honeywell Total Connect (I guess that is Honeywell home). It is model RTH8580WF1007 And is discontinued https://www.honeywellhome.com/us/en/products/air/thermostats/wifi-thermostats/wi-fi-7-day-programmable-touchscreen-thermostat-rth8580wf1007-w1/?bvstate=pg:9/ct:r it is a fine thermostat but I wouldn’t recommend it for control4. And no you can not set up scheduling through control4. Hopefully someone can tell me I’m wrong but I’m pretty sure that it’s a limitation of the driver/api. It is also a cloud driver so no advantage there either. Everyone seems to recommend ecobee if you are ok with cloud driver.

I have a Honeywell WiFi thermostat. Nothing special but it works and I can see it and adjust temperature on Control4 (the driver is now free). I don’t do any programming against it so don’t know if that works great. I know you can’t do scheduling in control4 with it. I would expect the control4 integration with other thermostats would get better since I don’t think control4 wants to make another thermostat. At least that’s what they said several years ago but their strategy may have changed. If they do make another I would bet it would be WiFi and not zigbee

Gotcha. You can put a core1 in a rack as well but it doesn’t have zwave.

Curious why you went with a core 3 over a core 1? Number of audio zones?

is the hc800 or ea1 your main controller? if you are wanting to upgrade to the latest version you could move your project over to the ea1 as the main controller but you would have to find other options if you are using hc800 for the audio or IO. finding a replacement for the hc800 IO is easy (IO extender, global cache, z2io, etc) but the audio would take some planning.

Do any of you all use the audio-in functionality on the controllers? I dont really see how it would get much use as it would make more sense to connect whatever it is directly to a matrix or AV recevier.

@RyanE anything you can say about this? Someone said the Control4 icon was present in settings

Do you have an audio matrix? Do you have to have separate audio streams for each area?

It would help if you had a drawing to get a better understanding. it seems moving to ea-3 or core1/3 is going to be your best move since you require both the audio and IR capabilities but hard to know.