South Africa C4 user

A number of options: 1. Put it permanently in sleep mode. Only way I know to do this is via the C4 driver and updating the state every (say) 48 hours. 2. Add a manual override under FloSense (which you can find under device settings). For instance, on one of my Flo’s I have the override in play from 10am to 3pm because my pool autofiller is (can be) active between 10.30 and 2. 3. Change the sensitivity of Flo Sense and it should learn that this behaviour is Ok after a week or 2. While my suggestion would be option 2, the purists would say that you should use option 3 and put Flo to sleep for the day of large washing (from time to time).

You can program LED colours directly using the LED commands available for each and every keypad. You choose the button, the colour (not required for every command) and what you want to do… E.g. set the LED for button 1 to green. Alternatively, you can use the LED wizard (this is the driver referred to by @time2jet above which allows multiple LED commands to be processed at the same time. You should not really be programming this for lights but rather have your dealer set up the bindings correctly and Control4 will handle it automatically - all you then do is change colours.

I think that the Domosapiens Source Pooling driver may help in this situation. Admittedly, it can’t help you get more streams than the limit (2 for Sirius per your post above). I must admit that I have never used Sirius and I have never used the Source Pooling driver so cannot comment further on this. I use Tidal and have a lot of programming doing what you want to do but I suspect that the Domosapiens Keypad Audio Control driver and the Domosapiens Source Pooling driver would make my programming totally redundant and the outcome better… One day I will test this theory.

This!

Very informative! Thanks

Definitely doable. I like how you are automating things. This is the beauty of automation (as opposed to simple Control). Post your code if you get stuck.

Glad you have it working! I’ve never fully understood the difference between proxy ID and device ID. I did check mine this morning and I was definitely using proxy ID in my example BUT, I have seen other cases where I’ve had to swap the two around,..

It sounds like waiting a few months before getting a Touch will result in a more pleasing first time experience. At least most of the problems sound not serious or a software issue (unlike backlighting on the Neeo which was a serious issue and no software could fix that omission!)

The above was something I did when messing around… so don’t laugh! The variable name in the command is a string (e.g. in the above example, I simply type “POOL_TEMPERATURE” in the variable name field. The proxy ID is unique for every driver and you can find this by hovering your mouse cursor over the driver that you want to use a variable from. in my example, 4862 is the Proxy ID of my pool driver and 1428 is the Proxy ID of a thermostat that displays the outside air temperature. If you are wanting to use a variable from the variable agent then I think (from memory so this one is dangerous) that the proxy ID is 100001.

This looks perfect. Else’s are in the right place.

I am 99% sure that you do this directly with the driver. Let me try and post a screenshot shortly.

My programming is a little more complex (although I suspect the Domosapiens driver above would simplify it significantly) and works something like what follows. Areas of the house that are on top of each other and won’t want different music playing are identified and grouped together. Areas that are close to each other (likely to not want the different music playing on different zones) are then identified. By way of example, I have the following: Kitchen, Dining Room and Lounge grouped as Downstairs. They are open plan and would never want separate music streams playing. Jacuzzi, Patio, Sauna and Steam room are grouped as Outside. I have Outside and Downstairs identified as areas that are unlikely to want different music as they run into each other if the sliding doors are open. For completeness, my other group is Bedroom Suite which includes the main bedroom, bathroom, TV lounge and balcony. All other zones (6 or 7) are not grouped but have music buttons that work the same way (without having to look for other zones in the group playing). I will use the kitchen music button as an example but the same applies to any music button in the house. If I press the kitchen music button and music is already playing in the kitchen, it turns all Downstairs music off. If I press the kitchen music button and music is not playing, it first checks for music playing in the dining room or lounge and joins to this. Failing that, it checks for music playing outside (any room) and joins to that. Failing this, it checks for my General Tidal stream playing anywhere in the house and joins to that. Finally, if all of these fail, it plays a standard playlist on my General Tidal stream. If I press the kitchen music button twice, it checks for music downstairs (but not outside) and plays this. If that fails, it checks for any zone playing my wife’s Tidal stream and joins this. Failing this, it plays a playlist on my wife’s Tidal stream. If I press the kitchen music button three times, it checks for music downstairs (but not outside) and plays this. If that fails, it checks for any zone playing my Tidal stream and joins this. Failing this, it plays a playlist on my Tidal stream. If I press the kitchen music button four times, it checks for music downstairs (but not outside) and plays this. If that fails, it checks for any zone playing my daughter’s Tidal stream and joins this. Failing this, it plays a playlist on my daughter’s Tidal stream. I have 4 (actually 6 but only 4 are relevant to this post) Tidal drivers all connected to different family member accounts and with different standard playlists for use in Control4 via music keypad buttons. LED feedback on my keypad is instant when the button is pressed; however, I wait 2 seconds to see what music to play (to allow for double, triple and quadruple clicks which I track via programming rather than the native double click etc. functionality. In my setup, you cannot turn music off for 30 seconds after turning on the music and if you press the button during this period, it simply changes source (scrolls through sources) in the same order as the button clicks meaning that, for instance, if I double click but mean to triple click and hear my wife’s music start playing, I simply press the button again and it flips to my music. The above is a huge amount of programming (even with clever use of variables, timers and macros to minimise repeating the same code anywhere). From memory, the Domosapiens driver can do much of this directly in the driver setup. Posting this does make me think I need to probably move to the driver at some stage and delete my code - it will make maintenance easier!

While I have a “join” command working via lots of programming in both my homes, I am pretty sure that the Domosapiens Keypd Audio Control driver can do this. @pbir would be able to confirm this (or not). I know that when I had this added to my project a couple of years back, I wished that it had been around 5 years ago as it would have saved me a lot of programming! The Keypad Audio Control driver sits on top of the Room Control driver and adds significant functionality.

My experience has been that playlists I create in Tidal appear in C4 under “Playlists created by me”. I then have to click on the playlist’s hamburger menu in C4 and choose “add to library” this copies the playlist from “Playlists created by me” to “playlists” in C4. The playlist is then available to access from programming etc. I have no idea if this is the normal way to deal with the driver but it has worked for me!

In theory (and I set this up a few years ago so I am a bit hazy on what I did at setup stage), you should be able to access the different playlists on the different drivers (your wife’s playlist on the second driver which is linked to you). You do need to add the playlist to the library in C4 but this should be a once off action.

Thanks to @SpencerT for coming up with a solution that works!

Yes, it should auto update. I set this up a few years ago when I started using Tidal and it works perfectly. I can’t recall if one had to choose any specific option to get it to work but I do remember that it was pretty easy. That said, if you have the family plan, it is probably worth setting up multiple instances of the Tidal driver on C4 so that you can access them all and play multiple streams at once. This may (or may not) remove the need for duplicating (sharing) the playlist?

This is pretty much what I do. Set a playlist is public and share it with the second profile in the family account.

I know that a number of forum members use this driver, so hoping someone has a solution for me. I have been using this driver forever. Years ago, it was pretty much the only way of sending an image. And today it remains the only way (that I am aware of) of sending multiple images (or links thereto) in an email. I use it to send a snapshot link for around 20 cameras (from various sources, 2 DVRs and 2 door stations being the primary sources). Everything works except one DVR where the problem seems to be the url used. The url has various characters that cause problems in some cases, such as “-“, “_”, “?” and “.”. I am 99% sure that one of these characters is causing the problem. I have tried replacing them with the encoded equivalent (e.g. “%3F”) and this still does not work. Any suggestions? As an aside, I use this same URL with another photo attachment driver (but this is limited to attaching a single photo) and it works although I have to encode one or two of the above characters to get it to work for this particular DVR. There is no way (that I know of) to change the snapshot URL of the DVR…

If you want to graph the history, one can link it up (relatively easily) with the BMS monitor driver. I graph humidity, temperature and rainfall using these two drivers and some programming.

If you have an Apple TV, you might find the Infuse App is a better way of achieving this.

Yes it is definitely still a thing, I use it regularly and it is available in 4K which is a big improvement. There were some HDMI handshake issues initially but most of these have been dealt with in the latest OS. Have you tried rebooting your EA5? What is your EA5 plugged in to (in terms of its HDMI connection)?

@annex⁴ would be able to confirm if their driver works for this TV.

Try the Annex4 LG driver. While it is a paid Dre, it has some great extra features and seems to work for all (most) LG TVs.