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I agree...this would definitely be good to know.

How are you using C4 with this setup--if at all?

Yeah. I've got an iPad mounted with one of the LuxePort wall mounts (which I really like) and have noticed some very minor swelling in it recently. Mine is on AC so I have it running through a TP-Link plug with scheduled off times now. Hoping that stops the progression. If not, I'll know to do it from the start when I throw a replacement iPad in there.

I have both in my system and haven't had any connectivity/stability issues with either the plugs or bulbs so you should be good either way.

No special protocols with TP-Link...just 2.4Ghz Wifi. I have bulbs, plugs and switches in my project (with Alan's driver) and have been very happy with them. Connectivity hasn't been a problem with any of them. If you have lamps, I would recommend the bulbs over the plugs as you can nicely integrate the bulbs into advanced lighting scenes.

Sounds great...thanks for letting me know!

Deezer and Tidal both work great. Also, CEDIA is in a month and there's always the possibility (odds are somewhere between 0-100% )that C4 could announce Apple Music integration then if you're willing to wait and see.

Very good to hear...thanks for the quick response!

I have this driver and have generally been very happy with it. One problem is that my neighborhood seems to have terrible issues with very short power outages and every time this happens, the August loses its connection to C4 and I have to manually refresh the driver in Composer HE to re-establish the connection. I've got my EA5 on battery backup, but there's no real way I can do that with the August Connect. Is there any way I can program in a refresh of the driver or enact an auto-refresh so that I don't have to manually refresh--usually after finding out I've left my door unlocked because of it?

It shouldn't matter. You need to see what the machine is reading when idle (or off) and then use that as your minimum. If your machine cycles as low as 3W, you may just have to use 1W (I think using 0 will negate the action in programming). And no need for a timer, just program off your plug reaching the minimum value (in programming) and have your actions go off of that. It will only trigger after going above that value and coming back to it. @htjunkie it depends where you're based. The HS110 in the US is rated at 15A. Not sure if it is made to hold up to that constantly though...may want to contact TP-Link about that.

See Page 10 on @alanchow's pdf guide: https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5305718de4b0e8a52d75a8cc/t/5a792aa4f9619ae7e8f3931c/1517890230176/Chowmain+-+TP-Link+HS1XX+Installation+Guide.pdf It's different than an Xbox, but it really isn't. I found with my washing machine that you don't really need to do the 20% boost so much...they tend to almost power off during their cycle. Will take a little trial and error, but is pretty easy to test. Feel free to PM me if you have struggles after trying.

As far as integration goes, I don't anything would beat the C4 DS2. I would've gotten that, but it wasn't out yet so I have a Doorbird. Mine has worked great so far and integrates nicely into C4 (allows for triggers and viewing of video within C4 app), but doesn't have some of the Intercom functions the DS2 does and I think the resolution is better. As far as Ring goes, I think you're limited to what @msgreenf said above--don't think there's a way to view its video stream from within C4. Now, if you're primarily concerned about viewing on FireHD8s though, you could just ask Alexa to view your Ring cam when the doorbell rings and it should go straight to the video in the Ring app (I know this works on Shows, but would have to check on FireHDs). And @thegizzard, that's exactly what happens when my doorbell rings!

I don't think there is a dedicated mode for FireHD. I get around this by using an app that forces the screen to stay on and keeps the FireHD from going to sleep. Not sure how something like that would work in a theater room though where you probably don't want a bright screen on all the time.

Yes, you can still get to the cameras just like you do on your mobile app. I use a Fire HD8 in one of my bathrooms with the Show Dock and it works great (though you still currently have to take the Google Play side-load route to get OS3 on there). I didn't need the intercom or navigation agent features in that area so it serves my purposes really well and have near-zero connectivity issues. And being Prime Day is next week, you can probably grab one at a ridiculously cheap price to give it a try and just send it back if you don't like it.

I had the same thing happen when I tried to add the agent in Composer HE.

May not be the best for a very exposed front door, but doesn't look bad at all for garage entry/side doors. Functionality is excellent.

Have you looked at the August locks? Would preserve the outdoor appearance of your current lock with no need to change the handle (assuming your handle and deadbolt are separate) and there's a C4 driver for them.

Ari, looks like max load on the HS110 is 15A (https://www.kasasmart.com/us/products/smart-plugs/kasa-smart-plug-energy-monitoring-hs110). I'm not sure any of the WiFi controlled plugs (from any any brand) will handle anything over 15A. I have seen this Aeotec Zwave switch (https://aeotec.com/outdoor-z-wave-switch/) designed for appliances that will handle up to 40A. Looks much more involved than the simple WiFi plugs, but you could at least pair with a Zwave hub and control/monitor remotely still.

Oh yeah, definitely agree and I do the same. @LollerAgent, I just setup a timer for this that starts with the HS110 event (minimum power reached) and sends the notification when the timer expires.

Ari, sorry for for the lack of clarity there. I can confirm with you that I have HS105s and HS110s and only the HS110s do the energy monitoring.

Thanks, Ari! Definitely need energy monitoring for this. This was why I had you switch that plug to my laundry room!

Awesome...glad to hear you liked the idea!

I recently added one of the TP-Link energy monitoring plugs (HS110) to my washing machine. When the cycle finishes, I programmed an announcement telling us the load needs changed and, because we are really good at ignoring things, I have a C4 push notification sent to our phones 15 minutes later to remind us (probably need to send notifications about 3 more times though). I use the Chowmain TP-Link and Advanced Announcements drivers for this.

I have several TP-Link plugs and bulbs in my project and have been very happy with them. The Chowmain driver is great and I have most of my TP-Link products integrated into C4. TP-Link also now has an in-wall WiFi outlet that is supported by the C4 driver if they would like to keep the installation as clean as possible.