rea

A Alexa only works with the S30 and E30 therms. If Ari's client is like me and has the very creatively named "Wifi" Thermostat, it isn't supported with Alexa either.

Ari, if you figure this out, let me know and I'll have you integrate my system.

I'm doing the same with a Kasa plug and an iPad with an iPort LuxeMount. No swell so far after a year and it's nice to be able to pull the iPad off the wall and have full tablet functionality when you want. I'm in the same boat! Love the look of my flush mount Doorbird and am generally happy with the integration, but am really jealous of the reported camera quality of the Chime. The DS2 didn't sound like it was a huge upgrade from the Doorbird on image quality, but the Chime seems like a huge upgarde (with better integration). Maybe we get an updated DS2 next year that will work with flush mount installations.

Mine shows version 20200402, which appears to be the most recent version on the Drivercentral page.

I have had the Kasa driver from Chowmain in my system for quite some time now and it's easily one of my favorite drivers-- I have many lights, plugs and switches in the project. Over the past few months, my EA5 has been crashing on me every 7 days and has now been more like every 4-5 days. No new drivers added in that time frame, but I did add another outdoor plug and a Kasa light strip in that time. I had Control4 do diagnostics on my system and they found at least a couple of my Kasa devices (dimmer switches also seem to be cycling brightness levels constantly despite not actually being on) pinging the controller excessively. They showed my EA5 getting hit with up to 40 pings in a span of 20 seconds and think this is the culprit for my EA5 outages. Has anyone else experienced any similar issues with this driver? I'd hate to lose it!

I have this driver as well and noticed that it will display the August lock activity in the C4 iOS app, but only if I lock/unlock via the C4 app. It doesn't seem to register the activity if you change the state of the lock via the August app or via programming. As @jfh said, the little trick Ari mentioned doesn't seem to work in the iOS app and I don't have a T3, but it does work on my PC using Bluestacks. So I'm guessing it works in Android phone apps as well...just not iOS.

It seems what you want would be much easier if you just added all of your lights to the scene you've already made (Whole House Interior Off) at 0% (off) in the Advanced Lighting Scene agent. Would take less than 5 minutes to do and then you could bind things directly to that scene (like a goodbye/goodnight button). Then if you want to change ramp rates for that scene, it isn't dependent on 3 other scenes.

I've had my system for 3 years now and have all matte black buttons. I have 3 or 4 (out of many) where the coating is chipping off or cracking. Most are minor enough that you can only really notice when the backlight is on as the light bleeds through the button. The engraved caps are pretty cheap so I won't mind replacing those eventually. My only gripe is similar to what @eggzlot posted. There seems to be a lot of inconsistency with the backlight intensity, backlight pulsing and the intensity of the status LED lights. I seem to have more issues with my wired keypads that are on my panelized system--much fewer issues with the wireless keypads. A little disappointing for how much you spend on their lighting products. Never had a true functional issue with any of them though.

I have many Ecosmart brand LED can lights (BR30) in my house and they've worked quite well. Like with most LEDs, you're not going to probably see a lot of difference in the lower end like you would with incandescent, but no flickering issues. Can find them at Amazon and Home Depot.

Fully supported by the Drivercentral driver? Have a SmartLock Pro and been thinking about adding one of the new ones.

You certainly will be in good hands with @chopedogg88 if you let him take care of you. Reasonable rates, fast service, excellent work, and a great guy!

Really enjoy my Triad One. No issues in 2 years and flawless integration with C4.

I tried removing and re-adding the C4 skill in Alexa and it's not responding right now so seems like there are still issues right now.

Question: Is yours actually cracked? I used the quotes on mine because they seem to only look like cracks but are just fine lines where the black coloration has been lost for some reason. Definitely much worse if the actual button cracked!

I've started to have a few of my keypad buttons start doing this, too. Had mine for about 3 years...how long did yours take before this occurred? It does appear that the little "cracks" are harder to see on my black buttons but still leak backlight through when you're up close.

Ari, my announcements load up just fine in Parellels with Windows 10 on my iMac so I don't think that's the issue. I was having issues with them showing up on my Windows 10 PC, but changed the network to private and that fixed the issue so thanks to the OP for mentioning that!

Amazon Music is also there (and free to try if you have Prime). Works well through the app, but has no ability to do any programming with it in Composer.

I've been playing around with this a bit this week (thanks for the post @msgreenf) and it is nice for lights, but am wondering if anyone has figured out a way to work in C4 speakers. The groups recognize my Heos and Sonos speakers as options for "preferred speaker" but my wired C4 zones don't show up. It also doesn't seem like I can either find them or change their state (like "switch" to "light" in the OP). Is this currently not possible like it seems to be after my efforts at attempting it?

I would also say that if one of your primary drivers in this project is the interface of Control4, I would get something capable of running OS3 because it was a big upgrade in user interface and is most likely what you're looking at when you're doing your research being it's been out for greater than 6 months.

I would say that with this logic, you would likely spend far, far more ripping out your current lighting system to negate the low likelihood that a very reliable controller, only controlling your lighting, would manage to fail. I've had C4 panelized lighting for 3+ years now, but the only time it's out is if the power is out (same with all the dumb lighting) or if you are messing with the network switch. I have Composer Home Edition and can basically change anything on my system (outside of adding devices) without a dealer. It makes SmartThings look like the dumbest thing on the planet. It may be worth it to try your C4 system for a few months before you take such drastic step. If you're only running lighting, you would probably forget you have a dealer in a few years because you would never need them. Also, not sure why you would ever entertain moving to a 3rd party "smart" system when you have a top of the line system in place already.

They do work with IFTTT so you could do some very basic integration with that based off of motion triggers (obviously no video feed into C4 though).

I don't think any of the buttons on the app/navigators recognize multiple taps so your best bet is probably moving the favorite button location so that you have to scroll to it and not through it.

This. You'll have to click the "Commands" radio button to activate the drop-down menu to see Pause and Play. I have programming in my theater room set up just like this so if it's not there, it's likely something the dealer did that you can't see.

I agree that it would nice if you could have 3 rows (or more) of icons on the "home screen" of the remote, particularly when a media scene is not active. At the least, they could add the custom backgrounds for the room that the navigators and apps now have as it's just a lot of empty screen space when nothing is active. It would certainly be nice to have as many of your favorites on that screen as possible when you pick up the remote to save from scrolling pages. I would also agree that after a few weeks of using mine that it would be nice to have transport buttons where the blank bottom front of the remote is. I've generally been a fan of the remote and think it looks and feels great, but there are a lot of times where it would nice to just reach down and hit a pause/play button without having to pickup the remote and click the screen icon (or scroll back to it if you've navigated away from the media control "page').

Thanks, Alan! Tested tonight and power monitoring is working again with the HS110 (US version).