brucecampbell

SimpleC4 is our Alexa skill.  It can also control your C4 system, but is definitely not the official C4 skill.   
It does have the advantage that you don't have to pay for C4 Cloud service.  If you want to use it please see https://splash-tiles.com/help/alexa_c4.php

https://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=201248840
 
The above explains how to change the location in Amazon.
I have had to do this twice in the last 6 months (for the same reason as you).  The first time, the change worked instantly.  The second time it took a good few hours (24 or less) before it worked.

I do this with keypads LED's in my hallway and master bathroom.
Also, upon arming my alarm, if the garage door is left open I get an immediate push notification

use sensor on my garage to turn on LEDs on keypads too. If Doors are open for 30 min it sends me a push alert

This.
But if there are multiple lights in the room, the programming can be much tidier with a single command;
In which case you are better using the toggle scene and using if 'my scene - toggle' is active then activate 'my scene'.
(Assuming your toggle scene is all the lights off in the room)

I'm just playing with this idea now.
My TV's driver has a 13 second delay built in, but even this seems to be ignored in some instances.
Will run some more testing over the weekend.
For now, I have America's Cup racing to watch.
 

yes, all you need is the Roku app ID and then you can unzip any one and make the necessary changes

I was also going to suggest the Domosapiens driver.  I think it allows for this (but may be wrong). They have some really cool drivers and this is one of two which are still on my list to try out. 

look at this driver - https://drivercentral.io/platforms/control4-drivers/utility/keypad-enhancer/
you may be able to use it to trigger modes that disable buttons at certain times 

Since they're LEDs, they probably convert the AC to DC.
 

I have something similar and it works fine off of my pre-existing LV landscape lighting which is 12VAC. Give it a go with the AC and see how it works if that is easier for you to implement.

https://drivercentral.io/platforms/control4-drivers/lighting/relay-to-light-control4-driver-chowmain/
Alan does both ways.

lucky you?!!?  not sure if that is a good or bad thing.  🙂  We put curtains in 1 room but that is our "formal" dining room.  when i've asked about adding them to our bedroom to help with the light leak on the side of the black out rollers i just get a shoulder shrug.  if i could find a way to eliminate some of that light bleed and get real black out ability in my bedroom I'd certainly be happier person in the morning when I wake up.  
Probably should have wired for this prior to my reno when walls were open, etc

I have it on my front door window. There's a switch by the door that turns it on (makes it transparent). I use it sort of like a peep hole. I thought this was going to really freak people out, but most people never even notice. But it's definitely a really cool effect. I do not have it integrated with Control4, namely because the only time we use it is when we are standing at the door, so I didn't bother to put in a C4 switch. But there's no reason it couldn't be. 
You'll need to use a switch and not a dimmer, at least according to what I was told. So I'd verify with the company before trying a C4 dimmer. A C4 switch should work though.
One thing to keep in mind is that it's never fully transparent. It always has a slight fog. You can see through it fine, but it wouldn't be good for most windows because they'd always be slightly foggy. It would be great for a shower door, a bathroom window or clearstory windows though.
Here's a video showing how it works. It looks really clear in the video, but in person it's more obviously not fully transparent.
John
 

One of my favourites is Escea.  We have IP control over it.
https://www.chowmainsoft.com/escea

Channel 25

FYI - I was able to order these adapters on Amazon for a good deal.  It converts from a very popular barrel size to the size needed for the HC800 which is 6.3x3.0.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07L5GB34N
Since there were no new announcements today regarding controllers the HC800 will live on as a cost effecting controller with lots of I/O.

Don't think I did the last part, would explain it. Thanks. 

I have not played around with this much - it just worked first time.
I think I saw a post here about using groups from @msgreenf a while back.

1. Create a group in the Alexa App.
     ie: 'Lounge' or 'Patio' ....
2. Add devices to the Group which belong in that room.
     Be sure to include the Alexa echo/dot in the Group too
3. Edit the voice control options for C4 devices on the control4 my-home website.
     ie: use the 'edit' option next to the device name to change 'Lounge Netflix' to 'Netflix'
     Be sure to click the 'Save Changes' at the top of the page when done.

 

I have not played around with this much - it just worked first time.
I think I saw a post here about using groups from @msgreenf a while back.

1. Create a group in the Alexa App.
     ie: 'Lounge' or 'Patio' ....
2. Add devices to the Group which belong in that room.
     Be sure to include the Alexa echo/dot in the Group too
3. Edit the voice control options for C4 devices on the control4 my-home website.
     ie: use the 'edit' option next to the device name to change 'Lounge Netflix' to 'Netflix'
     Be sure to click the 'Save Changes' at the top of the page when done.

 

It seems what you want would be much easier if you just added all of your lights to the scene you've already made (Whole House Interior Off) at 0% (off) in the Advanced Lighting Scene agent. Would take less than 5 minutes to do and then you could bind things directly to that scene (like a goodbye/goodnight button). Then if you want to change ramp rates for that scene, it isn't dependent on 3 other scenes. 

I have an HC-800 as my primary controller, an EA-3 and I recently bought a bunch of used HC-800s to replace HC-250s so that I could go to OS3.  The HC-800 is still rock solid.

Epic driver is faster.
Epic driver allows more flexibility.  Multiple accounts can allow different commands connected to different devices (essentially each Echo can be made location specific).
Epic driver had some issues but I think most are resolved now.
Epic driver needs a version 1 Dot (now) - I have read - to set up.
C4 driver is an official skill and less likely to break.
C4 driver can automatically set up all lights and lighting scenes on Alexa.
C4 driver sometimes gives the wrong response (device not responding even though it does respond).
I used the Epic driver for years and lived it but ultimately moved to C4 for the light set up and as it seems the C4 one will be developed further.  
 

C4 control (I moved off the Epic Driver a year or so back).

There is a V200 of the Epic Systems driver that works with OS3 but I believe you need this Gen 1 Echo for it to work.  In case you haven't seen it look through this thread.