drmark12pa

They are some old Advent bookshelf speakers.... Still sound good however. I don't mind spending a little extra if I ever move the zone to somewhere I would need to reach easier as well. Control4 keeps coming out with so many things it's hard to keep up so this was a new one for me that they had this ability to have a zone added.

The Sony is from 1990.... one channel is a bit rough at times so needs to be tossed. I'm sure I could have my dealer add a driver but not really worth it at this point.

Does this amp need any connection directly to an audio source or does it stream via Cat5 or wireless?

Can anyone give their opinions on the C4 security cameras? I was considering installing some cameras but just saw that C4 has their own cameras now selling. Are they an economical option or would one be better off using a 3rd party security package? Do these cameras have to be hardwired by cat5 cable to the recording unit or is it easier to install than wiring everything?

I was just reading specs on it... Looks great but the price seems a bit high at roughly $700?

I'm looking to add a single controllable zone for my utility room/extra pinball machine room. I was using my rack HC800 in the utility room to run into an old (circa 1990!) Sony receiver which works just fined but was hoping to have control over Power and volume controls. My plan would be to just use the RCA outs on the HC800 as I have been doing but need some control for volume and power on the amp itself. Any suggestions/recommendations?

Once I upgraded to 3 my dealer had to update to the Interlogix security driver. The downside to using this driver was that I lost the functionality of the light bulb and the asterisk key on my key fobs. The security key fobs now only work for arming and disarming. I previously had programmed those two buttons on my key fobs for lights in my garage.

I just did a run through and it looks like the issue that was happening is no longer an issue... I don't know if a recent update helped that but now I seem to be getting it to ARM properly with exit sensors being triggered. Thanks to everyone for their input!

All of my exterior doors are set as an external door and this change didn't occur until I had the newer Interlogix driver installed once I upgraded to 3.0 awhile back. For some reason the Control4 exit delay doesn't seem to get triggered and then appears to set the panel to STAY.... I'll have to experiment a bit this weekend with some of the panel settings again.

If I arm to AWAY from either Control4 app on my phone or from the GE panel, it starts an exit delay timer that shows up on my Control4 phone app. Even if I exit through exit door, the timer keeps counting down and does not arm to AWAY and eventually arms to STAY. The only way I can currently get my system to arm to AWAY is by using AWAY NO DELAY either by hitting button 4 on my security panel or by the Control4 app command (or by my keyfob arming)…. Not sure why Control4 Interlogix interface not able to able to arm to AWAY after exit sensor triggers that.

When I hit AWAY on the keypad, it will still show the count down delay on the C4 app. Then it reverts to a STAY state even after an exit door is open/closed. I've basically just been using a DELAY to AWAY NO DELAY at this point. The only way to get it to arm to AWAY is use NO DELAY only via the security panel (that doesn't work since you can't open the door to leave without triggering alarm) or using a delay/timer to arm to AWAY NO DELAY.

With arming my security system when using the away command via Control4 if I do not use the arm AWAY (no delay) the system fails to actually arm to AWAY and goes to the STAY state. The Control4 interface will show a countdown timer but even when an exit door is opened it will not go to the AWAY state. I'm using the Interlogix driver and have the latest firmware of Control4. Is this a known issue?

Has anyone had an issue with Alexa lately saying that such and such device is not responding but it still works and performs like it should? I'm currently using this driver in the 2.0 virgin and everything is updated. It seems odd that Alexa doesn't think that the device is responding but yet performs the programmed action

Is there a list of updates/upgrades with this firmware? If it isn't broken, don't fix it is where I'm at with current 3.1.0.556775. Looking for a valid reason to update.

It took several evenings of ripping and attaching album artwork. I have over 3000 CDs so it was a project! I have 2 Drobo 5 bay network drives

I'm typically playing music from my network hard drives as I have a large music collection from all of my CDs transferred onto hard drive so I use the Control4 media library. I wish C4 had a slider to fast forward/rewind tracks during playback but I don't see that on any remote or navigator at all. It's almost like having an 8-track player! Hahah

Does this new remote have the ability to advance through a single song in my media library like a slider bar to fast forward or rewind similar to the slider used for dimmer function? I play guitar at times and would like to be able to rewind or advance in a single track to practice certain parts of a song but nothing in C4 has been able to do this.

Is there a way I can program a reminder that I can reset using a CUSTOM BUTTON that would be a 2 week or 4 week interval? I'm trying to program a specific reminder for a filter cleaning reminder but I don't always get it done right on the exact date every 2 weeks so I'd like to program a reminder that I can reset the 2 week interval vs. using a scheduled reminder which can't apparently be reset in Composer. Reminder pops up, cleaning filter done, I push a CUSTOM BUTTON to restart 2 week timer for reminder to be triggered again in 2 weeks

So if I have an Alexa in every room, that Alexa will catch my commands for that room specifically and know the room I'm trying to control?

Could I have you do this remotely? That might be the best and I wouldn't have to worry about missing anything via Composer HE

I couldn't figure out why Alexa suddenly wasn't acting on my commands though she would say "OK".... I have 3.0 so obviously my 1.8 driver isn't working now either. Has anyone transferred their old programming from the 1.8 driver to the 2.0 driver yet? I'm guessing I'll have to have my dealer do this? I have a ton of programming using the driver.

I couldn't figure out why Alexa suddenly wasn't acting on my commands though she would say "OK".... I have 3.0 so obviously my 1.8 driver isn't working now either. Has anyone transferred their old programming from the 1.8 driver to the 2.0 driver yet? I'm guessing I'll have to have my dealer do this? I have a ton of programming using the driver.

I was seeing quite a bit of lag on my Galaxy S10. Usually, I would have to kill the app and restart at times to connect. However, I noticed I had to manually go into the Google Play Store and update the app which seems to have improved the connection speed.

It seems C4 has a way of making their best product without functionality. I can't see any reason they could not include inputs/outputs on such an expensive unit. Instead, one HAS to have another controller for that. I cannot understand why both the brains and the brawn so to speak cannot be combined in one unit.....