Home Theater Advisors

So far i really like the sr260 onscreen volume indicator and the MUCH faster app loading, particularly when on WiFi (1-2 secs(.


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So far i really like the sr260 onscreen volume indicator and the MUCH faster app loading, particularly when on WiFi (1-2 secs(.


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This is a configurable keypad.  It can not directly connect to a load.  It is used to wirelessly control other lighting devices and smart home functionality.  So as a 'slave' in a 3 way or 4 way, it is a great upgrade from the KA since it can do way more than a KA.  Be aware that it requires power, and many slave locations do not have a live power, although often the electrician can use the traveler wire to bring power to the box from the main load location.

I've been using up an entire set of the custom buttons for AVR modes.  The key ones we use are (Marantz):
- Stereo
- Multi-Channel Stereo
- Dolby pro Logic
- Dolby Surround (Iforget what the basic dolby setting is called)

When door unlocks
? If user code is equal to (insert code)
-> activate lighting scene.


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I'm convinced you have no credentials to make the router analysis and likely not your puerile attempt at psychoanalysis -))).
I still don't understand in the pursuit of a solution you want to demonize me and your 2017 router.
The router was a fine choice in 2017. It's 2020 let's move on and for about $2,500 you can make all your woes disappear.  if you go Unifi routing and switching you run a good chance of exacerbating your woes. End of story. 

You did say "right or wrong". I am simply saying it's wrong and that router was likely a  circa $340 line item in your invoice, barely "pretty".
There is absolutely zero bias against Unifi / Ubiquiti - the DO NOT USE list does not brook any favourites. I know from extensive first hand experience and having been paid consulting fees to work on these problems far in excess of the cost of the Unifi equipment that these problems exist in many but not all cases. Don't shoot the messenger, you have been counselled accordingly -).

No ignorance here - just industry experience and a deep knowledge of networking. The router was an excellent choice several years ago and your dealer made the right call. The fact that it didn't cost much compared to your overall system is neither here nor there.. What router would you have chosen? I hear the Linksys WRT54G remains popular with hobbyists -).

Your network should be designed around 5ghz coverage.  That means that the APs should be 35-40 feet apart (depends on home layout and obstructions -glass, water, pipes, metal, appliance, etc).  2.4ghz should only be used for devices that can't handle 5ghz.
Your biggest issue is your APs.   Your router is fine.   You can replace it, but you will notice little, if any, improvement going from 500mbps to 1gbps.  Nothing you are using can take advantage of those speeds.
Setting up additional Araknis APs will take a lot of work and knowledge- setting channels to avoid conflict with each other and with competing systems nearby (and staying up to date with it as neighboring devices change), setting transit signal strength to manage overlap, creating SSIDs and passwords to be sure they match EXACTLY on each AP, etc.   You are probably better off replacing your APs completely.  I highly recommend Ruckus.  We have had great success setting up Ruckus APs for clients and shipping them out them, then walking them through plugging them into ethernet ports throughout the home.   Ruckus Unleashed will manage the transmit strength, channel selection, etc automatically.   Once it is setup, adding additional APs is as simple as plugging them into an ethernet port on the same network.

Your network should be designed around 5ghz coverage.  That means that the APs should be 35-40 feet apart (depends on home layout and obstructions -glass, water, pipes, metal, appliance, etc).  2.4ghz should only be used for devices that can't handle 5ghz.
Your biggest issue is your APs.   Your router is fine.   You can replace it, but you will notice little, if any, improvement going from 500mbps to 1gbps.  Nothing you are using can take advantage of those speeds.
Setting up additional Araknis APs will take a lot of work and knowledge- setting channels to avoid conflict with each other and with competing systems nearby (and staying up to date with it as neighboring devices change), setting transit signal strength to manage overlap, creating SSIDs and passwords to be sure they match EXACTLY on each AP, etc.   You are probably better off replacing your APs completely.  I highly recommend Ruckus.  We have had great success setting up Ruckus APs for clients and shipping them out them, then walking them through plugging them into ethernet ports throughout the home.   Ruckus Unleashed will manage the transmit strength, channel selection, etc automatically.   Once it is setup, adding additional APs is as simple as plugging them into an ethernet port on the same network.

Just use Jesse's Smith's awesome IR driver, it just works.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vkevfgxduc1wcm7/Apple_TV_V4_EA.c4z?dl=0

Good luck with walking into a fine dining restaurant with all the ingredients for an exquisite meal and expecting a great experience at a discount.

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You are only speaking for your own specific situation, for many regular homeowners resellers add a ton of value to home automation hardware.  
It seems like you want to continue to berate the industry instead of seeing how we can assist you

Nope. C4, just like many many (damn near everyone) other manufacturers provides extra incentives for moving boxes.

I’m curious what you do for a living that allows you to obviously be financially secure enough to drop 6 figures on HA and obviously much more on a house but you think 5-7% margins are realistic and that you have basically no idea how the manufacturer dealer relationship works
No one, and i mean no one invests time and money to become a dealer of any product to give it away.

Now to explain why it’s a dealer model and not a diy model - this is for everyone that doesn’t understand.
It’s hard enough to support dealers that actually understand the design, installation and programming of the systems.
If i call it’s a real issue and quite often a bug now a days.
There are a lot of dealers to support.
NOW if it was a diy model, support agents would have to triple or more as they would have many more calls from individuals that are clueless. Don’t believe me, no problem. Look no further than harmony killing their remote line because they lost millions a year on support.
If that POS product is loosing that much on something that is extremely limited what do you think would happen to a product that is actually capable.

Anyone can come up a argument about how they are “right” but the reality is there is a reason why there are diy setups vs. professional.
If you want to have complete control and feel as if your getting the best deal possible go look at Samsung smartthings.
If you want a more polished solution that is far more capable with great support than it’s time to understand this is the model in place and move on.

Sometimes i think this is dumbest group of smart people around.
It’s ok for the end user to make a great living but it’s not ok for the integrator to make a modest living? Gee thanks.


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According to USDA Market News Reports, the average retail mark-up on a head of iceberg lettuce in major US cities is 217%.
 
I’m really really sorry, I was curious after reading that. 

So where are you getting your % from?
You can complain about margins all you want, but that won't change a thing - new equipment, except maybe what can be scrounged here and there, is going to come from a dealer, who will charge the prices as they are.
Some may give a small discount on large orders, there is some wiggle room here and there, but Control4 determines to MSRP, and dealers are more or less locked into using those numbers.
There IS no 'retail store' or 'wholesale' available for Control4.
You are free to dislike that model or not - but turning around in circles on here won't do you much good.
What secret dealer only pricing? Go find the actual dealer/retailer (let alone distributor) cost of things out there. Oh I don't know, for a head of lettuce?
Have fun.
This is you only true shot, assuming it's for your own use.
If you're doing this as a 'developer' that wants to put it inot houses to sell, no self-respecting dealer will want to do it with second hand/otherwise procured gear BECAUSE ITS THEIR NAME ON THE LINE.
Please provide me a list of what you thing the margin is on the building materials you buy. I could use another laugh and a half.

Find a dealer here ok working with used hardware you source on your own 
pay them your “consulting fee” to lay it out and diagram and make sure you get what you need 
look at classifieds here or eBay and buy used gear
no dealer is selling c4 equipment at 5% margin
my Best Buy analogy is the same.  I can buy a netgear router from them and pay geek squad to install.  If I wind up saying eh I need a mesh system and buy something else geek squad would charge another fee to install.  Same with a tv and them hanging it.  
 
anything you buy has a markup.  It’s how the economy works. 
Most dealer only hardware items may not have public msrp but a quick google search and 90% of the time you can find the price lists.  Then you know if your dealer is marking up too much or just the normal amount.  Again you are paying that mark up on amazon buying a ubiquiti router or buying a netgear router in bestbuy.  Lawn mower at Home Depot is marked up.  It’s called retail pricing.  I can buy my whey protein powder from the manufacture, vitacost or amazon.  It’s all the same price for the most part, direct buy or from a 3rd party.  

Is Best Buy selling that tv to you at a 5% markup minus a random Black Friday door buster of course 🙂.  But seriously you are always going to pay a margin. To a dealer. To a storefront etc.  I’d rather give it to a local dealer/business and have support 
just my two cents 

5-7% margin doesn't cover credit card processing or the computer to process the card....good luck
does your business have a 5% margin with your customers?

I just did a complete home renovation project.  My plumber didnt give me cost + mark up on the pex tubing used.  My electrician didn't break out the cost + mark up on each outlet installed.  He said you need X amount of outlets and it will cost Y dollars.  So if your dealer tells you need this and it will cost that much, what's the difference?   If I told my electrician he can only make 5% on his hardware he'd walk out the door.  

The proper strategy is to treat your dealer as a long term partner and pay what they require to stay in business, or at least try to a fair and equitable arrangement.
Small business does not survive on margins that thin unless they are doing millions in sales and providing no support after the sale.
It’s time to rethink your “strategy “.


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Mitch is right.  Your new router has a different IP scheme (or the Denon was on a DHCP reservation that was in the old router.  He can help you fix it. Lesson learned - never change anything in your network without your dealer being involved.

Mitch is right.  Your new router has a different IP scheme (or the Denon was on a DHCP reservation that was in the old router.  He can help you fix it. Lesson learned - never change anything in your network without your dealer being involved.

Honestly, an echo dot is $40. Why wouldn’t you want to do it ‘right’ for that cost?


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Honestly, an echo dot is $40. Why wouldn’t you want to do it ‘right’ for that cost?


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