joecheech

Looking for suggestions for programing logic to suspend HVAC when a window is left open for x amount of time, as well as the logic for when the window closes to resume heat / cool mode. Are people using snapshot? Have an Ecobee 3 as my thermostat. Thanks.

Would like to see climate control and alarm system back on the navigators.

Could not agree more. You definitely came to the right place.

Not inaccurate by any means, Mr. President!

Roku

It's a serial connection. Just run CAT6 from your panel to your controller. You'll only need to use 3 wires so you can leave the other 5 coiled up for future needs. There's actually a YouTube video out there of a guy doing this. Get yourself a 3.5mm mini stereo plug or buy a pre-made 3.5mm mini stereo patch cable and cut / splice to make the connection. Once you make up the plug it will connect to one of your controller's serial inputs. If you have an EA3 controller, for example, note that there are six IR/Serial ports on the back, but only ports 1, 2, and 3 are serial. Make sure you use one of those 3. Note to the dealers / experts: If you have a better method, please don't hesitate to correct me here. 750 × 750 module to the controller,

No, you can indeed send alarms to central station with the C4 integration. You just can't use the Honeywell Total Connect remote access and the Control4 integration, have to pick one or the other unless you want to invest in a new panel that allows multiple controls. From your response it sounds like you aren't familiar with Total Connect. Google it for details. TC is Honeywell's proprietary remote / smart control platform. It's subscription-based and allows you to control your alarm system as well as other Honeywell products through their TC app. With TC, you can arm / disarm, receive notifications, sound the panic, bypass zones, etc through your smartphone. Through a PC you can also do some neat things like setup access users (like the dog-walker), change someone's password, among other less useful things. If you aren't using TC then you won't miss it. C4 integration has some limitations over TC, such as - you can't change your alarm code or add users using C4, but you can just call your central alarm station and they will do that for you for free if needed. If you search this forum for Honeywell Vista 20 you'll find some other good reading. p.s. get the battery backup mentioned above.

I have my Vista panel integrated with my C4 system. It does all the things folks mentioned above. I caution you that the integration process can be tricky. For starters you will need to run some Cat6 from the panel to your controller, that is a must. Note that you cannot use both Control4 and Honeywell Total Connect with this panel at the same time as this panel only allows for one remote controller at a time. So if you are currently using TC, it will have to be disabled in order to use C4 and flipping back and forth is not a practical option as the panel needs to be configured to make the switch. I'd also strongly recommend having the install done on site by a dealer vs. remote, especially if you are not comfortable installing the 4232 CBM yourself (it needs to be wired to the terminals on the board) it's not a plug-in module. Once it's up and working there is a bit of programming required to get the desired effects, such as push notifications, switch LED programming, etc. Those things can be done with Composer Home Edition, if you have it. The level of Composer HE sophistication required here is definitely "Level 2" or higher, meaning someone unfamiliar with using HE could have a steep learning curve setting up all of the features cited in this thread. If not, programming can likely be done remotely, by one of the great folks on this board. Not trying to scare you off by any means, just want you to understand how involved this upgrade is and set expectations. I love having mine integrated and went through a few frustrating days to get it done properly. Worth it.

Same

Anyone have experience with the above-mentioned unit? I have standby generator and use a UPS to give me juice on my critical electronics for the 10-second delay between power loss and generator startup. The unit I currently have, a Cyberpower PR500LCDRT1U, has been in place for about two years. I learned the hard way (with this current storm and 4-day power outage) that the unit I have isn't designed to work with a standby generator due to inconsistent power frequency the genny puts out. Example, when central air kicks in, there is a bit of a ramp on the genny and it is causing this unit to go nuts. In layman terms, the UPS will sometimes switch to battery on a genny ramp and won't switch back. Then it depletes the battery, starts beeping like crazy, and eventually shuts off, killing all power to my critical devices while it recharges. Only to repeat the cycle all over again. Thinking the battery was faulty, i called Cyber tech support - they were very great BTW. The told me that the PR isn't a good fit for generator use as it's too sensitive. They suggested the OL unit. Would love to hear if anyone is using the OL and if there are other suggestions or guidance on this. Only restriction is I need it to be rack-mount as I don't have space for anything else. By way of note, I do have a WattBox WB-400-CE-10 in the rack too, which powers some non-critical stuff. Thanks, let me know if you need further info to answer!

Thought I read something about a potential problem with lighted doorbell buttons... If applicable, may need to add a resistor to above solution. Smarter folks, please confirm.

I have a NYCE door sensor integrated. When they lawn guys open the gate Rachio stops. Not perfect but works.

Oh man, I remember this being a real bitch when we did it, coincidentally two years ago almost to the day. Was working with a remote dealer as well so lots of back and forth. Ultimately had to tweak one of the settings noted in the CBM instruction sheet but I didn't write down exactly what it was, sorry. I remember both my dealer and my alarm company being stumped. Ultimately I came up with the winning settings combination and I got there by reading through the installation manual for my panel and catching something....damn I wish i could remember. I'm attaching the manual here, give it a read. Hopefully it will inspire you to find it. Once you have it setup right, it will work pretty flawlessly, aside from what I mentioned above. Vista-20P-Programming-Guide[8873].pdf

Just a note, depending on your Vista panel you may lose your Total Connect after installing the module, if you are using that functionality. Most Vista 20’s only allow one remote interface so you have to chose between C4 and Honeywell Total Connect. C4 will do the job but you’ll lose certain things like ability to setup panel users - like if you fire the dog walker and want to change their code. You’ll have to have your alarm company make that change once you lose TC. I’ve not had success programming Certain push notifications for specific users - such as if user 1 disarms vs if user 2 disarms. I can only get a generic “disarmed” notification. So if you have multiple users like a nanny, dog walker, kids, etc, it may be tricky for you to program user-specific events and notifications. YMMV. Overall the experience was worth it for me, just wanted to share personal experience.

That totally worked. Thanks, Mitch!

Hi, everyone, I know there is a Sonos Forum, but wanted to check here first as so many of you are top notch. Would someone please give me a hand troubleshooting my Sonos system? Think I have a bad power supply on my Sonos Bridge. Had a brief power outage today and upon restoration was unable to control volume on Playbar through SR260. All other AV equipment is working fine. I can control Playbar volume with the rocker on the side of it . Launched Sonos App and got the following: Checked my network tree and see all Sonos equipment offline. Setup includes a Sonos Bridge, 3 Connect Amps, and 2 Playbars. Bridge and 1 of the Connect Amps are connected to the LAN. Rebooted my router, my access points, etc, all good. I went to power-cycle my Sonos Bridge and it seems dead, didn't power up, no lights at either side of the LAN ports. Sounds like blown power supply, or fried Bridge. No burnt circuit smell on either the Bridge or power supply. Got me thinking, do I even need a Bridge? Installer put it in on day one, but I hear you don't need it if you have solid Wifi, which I do. Would really appreciate a hand with where to go from here. Thanks, let me know if you need further info.

Have both and both work great. LG / Annex4 is my fav with the toast messages. Thought I read something about problems with toast messages if you have more than one, or maybe there was an issue with the newer WebOS models and toast messages. Check on that first.

+ 1 on this solution. I have mine wired into an Axxis contact sensor.

FYI - have worked with Mitch for a few years, he is highly qualified to assist you.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-HS103P2-Required-Google-Assistant/dp/B07B8W2KHZ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=38HJOU06OTZCJ&dchild=1&keywords=kasa+smart+plug&qid=1593552509&sprefix=Kasa+%2Caps%2C160&sr=8-3 Does this one work with chowmain as well? If so, time to up my Christmas tree game...

As mentioned, purchased from a trusted source on this forum. Anyone have anything constructive to add?

Thanks, Ari

Hi folks, need some assistance here on adding an EA1 to my project. Here is some background: Director running on an EA3, OS 3.1.0 Purchased a used EA1 from a friend on this forum Worked fine on his system Connected EA to LAN, HDMI, Power and attempted to have remote dealer install Dealer can't see the EA1 on my system. EA1 is showing the dreaded red triangle lightning bolt! Attempted factory reset and did not work, dealer still can't see it...still seeing red triangle... Let me know if you need more info to troubleshoot. Thanks, in advance, for your assistance.

+ 1

When 3.0 was launched we lost alarm functionality through TV navigators. I'm currently on 3.1 and am asking if this has been resolved in any of the later OS releases. Probably more a question for someone like @RyanE