LollerAgent

Ah ha -- I should have checked Shelly! Thanks for the tip!

Anybody know of a decently priced humidity sensor I can use with C4? Nyce motion sensors have a humidity sensor, but their driver(s) are not capable of utilizing it. They don't seem interested in adding the functionality either. Axxess has a motion sensor with a humidity sensor, but at nearly $300, the price is ridiculous. Any thing that I may be able to integrate via DSC? My goal is to turn on fans in my bathrooms when humidity is high.

Anybody have a used (or new depending on price) MS-C4ZB-H? It has to be the one that has the internal humidity sensor.

Huh - I had no idea native C4 audio didn't work outside of the USA. Thats a bummer, but I guess it's fine if Blusound sounds better anyways.

In this case, you aren't using C4's native audio services at all? You need one node per discrete audio stream (eg, if I want Spotify in one room, Pandora in another at the same time, I need two nodes)?

You mean automatically activating a zone when you start playing to a zone from the Spotify app? If so, yes, it's called "Auto Play" on the driver config.

Yeah - I agree. The styling of the new menu is pretty bad. The icons/fonts of the "old" menu are much nicer in my opinion.

Which subs are you using?

Looks good. I use the 45deg channels for some of my toe-kick lighting as well. Makes installation a breeze.

Do you have any pictures of the stairs and bullnose lighting?

RGBWW accent lighting (DMX) Simple automations like "Goodbye" and "Goodnight" Whole-home audio (we love music) combined with keypads and "join the scene" programming

Mikrotik is *perfectly* suitable for home if you know how to use it. If not, like you said, you shouldn't use it. I can drop a configuration on a Mikrotik router that supports multiple VLANs, etc 10x quicker than I can provision and configure Unifi routers and switches. To each their own.

I wouldn't say the advantage of L3 switches is speed (or that they are faster) -- although they often have beefier ASIC/CPUs because they have to do more. The advantage of L3 (Layer 3) capable switches are that they support IP routing -- inner VLAN routing (routing between VLANs), some type of dynamic routing protocol like OSPF, etc. In home or SMB environments, routing is typically handled by a dedicated router. A "managed" Layer2 switch (that supports VLANs, etc) with a trunk to a router is a common configuration.

This. You need to figure out why you're transcoding in the first place. Once that is fixed, you won't have issues.

No programming for the load at all (as seen on the "summary" tab). I thought it may be a misconfigured ALS scene too, but I'm not sure this would cause things to turn on/off randomly. I think I'll try what Matt suggested, and maybe just re-add the loads to C4 to see if that makes a difference.

I have two Hue loads that are doing strange things. They turn on/off at random times (but often on the hour, etc). I have tried to find any rouge or incorrect programming (using detective suite, etc), but can't find any at all. I think it's being triggered from C4 vs the Hue app directly. What other tools do I have at my disposal to figure out what may be triggering these loads?

Yeah - I have a number of them in 'low-traffic' areas -- a 5 series on the patio, a small one in the bathroom, a 6 series in my office, etc. I have been happy with all of them to be honest. I wouldn't use the super cheap 3 series, etc, but the 5+ series have all been very solid -- and I don't have to install an extra Roku!

Dealers typically quote you things that: a) They are comfortable with and knowledgable about b) That they can get support on from the vendors c) That they make a decent margin on SnapOne (who owns C4) owns Araknis, so that is probably why they are quoting the Araknis networking gear. Personally, I would not pay $750 for an Araknis AP. In fact, I wouldn't ever install Araknis gear in my own home -- but that doesn't mean it doesn't work -- it's just not my preference. Ubiquiti works perfectly fine when configured appropriately -- regardless of what folks may tell you. Your dealer may not be comfortable with Ubiquiti though -- and he certainly isn't going to make as much money selling you Ubiquiti than he would if he sells you Araknis. He also has someone to call if he needs help with Araknis. He can probably "guarantee" that it will work as expected, where he may not be able to if you asked him to use Ubiquiti. Origin makes fantastic speakers -- you really can't go wrong with them if you are willing to pay for them.

There are *tons* of reliability and picture quality issues reported with Sunbrite. I'd rather not pay a premium for an inferior product. What brand(s) would you recommend?

From what I gather, Sunbrite barely looks good when not in the sunlight. I concur. Buy a bright cheap TV, do your best to protect it from weather, and replace it if it gets ruined. How many $300 TV's can I buy for the price of one high-end Sunbrite with medicore picture quality and questionable build quality? A bunch. If you want a high-end "real" outdoor TV, maybe consider the Samsung Terrace?

Nevermind - I had a poor connection into the DAC. PCM output from the TV works fine now.

Yep.

For reference, here is a 2021 55" OneConnect box mounted in a 24x24 VersaBox (not the XL).

Does anyone know if it's possible for a Sony (X900F) to output audio it receives via HDMI (from a Roku) out of it's optical output? This works fine with my Samsung TV's, but having trouble getting it to work on the Sony.

I'm not upset about this. Blackwire has not been pleasant to deal with in terms of transferring purchased drivers from dealers that have vanished, etc. Farewell, BWD.