LollerAgent

Muzata brand on Amazon is what I use.

Strip channels - always. Especially if you're doing toekicks. I may not do them on top of cabinets.

Don't think I'm experiencing this issue.

I mounted my toekick lights facing the back of the cabinet to reduce the glare on the floors (I have shiny flooring). I also tried the 90deg aluminum channels which worked well, but ultimately I redid them all in regular aluminum channels facing the cabinet.

I would skip 2.5Gbps all together. Just go straight to 10Gbps if you feel you need >1Gbps.

You may see spikes north of 100Mbps, but nothing consistent. I have first-hand experience with operating an ISP and I am familiar with residential usage patterns, etc. There are of course always outliers, people who excessively torrent, people who are infected with malware that consumes bandwidth, etc. My household is all streaming, we have Peloton, we game, we stream music, etc. We hardly ever (if ever) average >100Mbps.

ISPs "trick" folks into thinking they need 1Gbps (or whatever), when they know, in reality, the average household rarely needs even >100Mbps. It's all a marketing strategy. Most eyeball networks are vastly oversubscribed for this very reason.

Have you looked at Orro? Chowmain has a driver.

There is no need to do this. You can use the forum's "Follow" feature.

Are you using an external sensor because you want Art Mode invoked before someone enters the room (eg, the TV's internal sensor isn't able to trigger/detect motion soon enough)?

Same here. My family (wife/kids) always grab a SR260 over a Neeo. It's just more functional.

The new revisions of the motors look different. The ones pictured in the link that RAV posted are the new ones. I just use the battery tube that holds AA batteries. It's easy to hide the tube in the window frame.

I use these motors in one room of my house that already had traditional wooden slat blinds. They work well. I had to have one motor replaced (under warranty) and the newer revision of them is MUCH quieter.

No ethernet link at all? I wonder if the NIC got nuked by a surge.

This is correct.

C4 has raised their prices. More than once.

Ahh - yeah, I see what you're saying now. I'm not sure if rotating freely through active sessions is an option or not, but it may be with some annoying programming. I'll have to check. I typically have programming in place that defines which sessions I want to join. For example, if I'm playing music in my master bedroom, I may have a double-tap on the "Music" button in my master bathroom automatically join "Master Bedroom" (if there is an active session in the master bedroom).

I'm sure you already know this, but "join" functionality is easily achieved using native C4 audio as well using the "Room Control' driver. Super handy, and we use it *all* of the time in our home.

C4 native audio here. EA5 Digital/Analog outputs -> Triad AMS24 inputs. Triad AMS24 outputs -> Triad PAMP/Episode amps. Several other things in my house are used as sources and are fed into inputs on the AMS24 including audio return from a few TV's, audio output from dedicated 5.1+ HT zones, etc. I also run AMS24 outputs -> HT 5.1+ zones input so that my dedicated 5.1 zones can serve as WHA zones and play C4 native audio if needed.

The Triad One may be an option for you. It's similar to a Sonos AMP in that it allows you to have "wireless" C4 native zones. You still obviously need to connect speakers to the Triad 1, but it just needs a network connection (wired or wireless) beyond that.

Yawn. All was well until someone here decided to revive a 2yr old thread.

Same. I use Roku behind every TV (even new ones with smart apps, etc). A few reasons: - Roku (Ultra) is almost always faster/snappier to respond, browse, etc. - Provides a common interface to all of our TV's which my family likes - C4 support is solid (miniapps work, control works well, etc)

If you have hardwired AP's in decent locations, you do not need mesh. There is no point.

If you have 2 conductor speaker wire going to each speaker, you will need to run a new cable from the speaker to your amp(s)/rack. It's very rare for speaker cable to go "bad." Was it cut/damaged? At your amp, have you tried switching the right speaker (the one that doesn't work) to the left output?

I wouldn't say you have too many. I wouldn't even say the OP has too many without knowing more about his configuration. It really depends on how they are configured (power levels, neighboring channels, etc). What you don't want are 12 AP's cranked up to maximum power levels causing interference, etc. It's not uncommon to have a very high number of dense AP's (with finely tuned power and channel configuration) in non-residential environments.