LollerAgent

Do the cameras support an RTSP stream? If so, you may be able to use the generic camera driver depending on the resolution of the RTSP stream.

This can be set in the programming options for the remote. In Composer, System Design->Neeo->Settings Tab->Popup Options->Confirm Room Off.

Yeah - C4 camera support is kludgy at best. The C4 app works fine for cursory viewing of cameras (which we use every day), but beyond that, it's not great. There are limitations regarding resolution, slow PTZ, etc. It's certainly an area they should invest in, but clearly haven't. Native apps for cameras are better in almost every way, period. Regarding Luma: yep, they are just rebranded Hik. There are many other cameras that are cheaper and better. Really just depends on how much you want to invest in integration capability with C4. Blue Iris supports nearly every camera, and can be integrated with C4 in various ways. Maybe check into that.

This may be helpful: https://www.dropbox.com/s/r3yzu7v48ov3smw/Integrating Alexa’s Audio into a Control4 Audio System.pdf?dl=0&fbclid=IwAR0lktVYP_LrGnyjHQzlx3sp69W2Ym9nfDd38422qgShicpZF3YGfZw4Tv8

Just in a single AZ within us-east-1, and things are nearly fully recovered now.

There is nothing keeping you from using "dumb amps" with C4 - especially if you are using the Triad AMS matrix. I'm not quite sure I understand your questions. Do your dumb amps have 12V triggers? If so, this should be all you need. I hope this doesn't come off the wrong way, but I would expect any Control4 dealer to know how to use and implement basic multi-room audio.

Yes - perfect solution. Just buy a new car!

Shelly RGBW2 is a great option (with the driver from Chowmain). Unfortunately, they don't have a model that supports RGBWW or Tunable White (although you can drive Tunable white strips with the RGB2, the UI just isn't intuitive).

Yeah - I wish this was easier. I have a room with a TV and a local Roku. I also have distributed audio in this room. When I want to listen to music but keep the TV on, I typically start the audio in another room, and then join the room where I want to both watch TV and listen to music. This works, but it's annoying to have to switch back to "Watch" to control the TV (which then turns the audio off).

The problem with UBNT is that they try to do EVERYTHING. They get people excited about stuff, then abandon products entirely (or never deliver anything). Time and time again.

I think you will have to find someone that has a spare one. I think there are alternate methods for removing it, but someone else will need to chime in.

You need a special tool to get that T3 off of your wall, otherwise you may damage it trying to remove it.

My Sony TVs are controlled via C4 (IP) using a hardwired connection and control is instant. No lag.

Because the driver makes it MUCH easier. It has the ability to randomize lighting loads, shades, etc to simulate a person being home when they are not.

I would keep Shields local to each TV. No reason to co-locate them unless you want to try and "share" one Shield with multiple TV's. If you want to send audio from your Shield back to your audio matrix, you'll need to wire for this as well. If you want to co-locate a few Cable boxes at your rack, you'll need some type of video distribution. C4 HDMI matrix, JAP, MOIP, etc. For this, you'll need at least one CAT6 run from your rack to each TV to carry the video signal. Presumably, you'll be playing TV audio through the AVR for that zone, or through your Triad AMS. If you want to co-locate your AVR's in your rack, you'll need to have home-runs from each speaker powered by that AVR back to your rack (so they can be connected to your AVR). Co-locating game consoles doesn't really make sense most of the time. Most people tend to keep these local due to wireless connectivity between game console controllers and the console themselves.

One thing that the photo in the lower right/top right doesn't make super obvious is that the keypad buttons stick out from the Decora plate quite a bit, which looks bad from the side profile.

Look at this thread:

It's more than likely going to prevent me from pulling the trigger on retrofitting. I have a mix of Lutron switches, mechanical rocker switches and C4 keypads. I have Eaton decora switch plates everywhere, and having to replace them with C4 plates is both a) expensive and b) annoying (maybe impossible?) due to the combination of switches I have. I feel like C4 sort of dropped the ball on this whole thing. Very disappointing.

Oh, nice - I didn't know. Will have to compare the two!

I see this way too often, even with less expensive gear. People see marketing terminology like "LONG RANGE," etc and think they can install one WAP to cover 3500 sqft. This doesn't work - especially on 802.11ac and other 5ghz platforms.

It looks like the new RA3 hub will be compatible with RA2 Select dimmers. Does anyone know if there are plans to release the new Sunnata dimmers for RA2/3 Select?

Right - I'm not saying this is an easy problem to solve, but it *is* a problem.

I would like to see this as well!

Yes, *if your dealer stays in business*.. potentially a pretty big "if" these days. I wish something could be figured out that made a Control4 customer's experience less painful if and when this happens.

Ah yeah - experience drivers are one way to handle this, but I feel like the fan control drivers really should be located under "Comfort." You should be able to go to "Comfort" and use the native UI sliders for them like you can under "Lighting."