LollerAgent

6-8MP cameras won't have the best night vision. You more than likely don't need 6-8MP to achieve what you want. The Dahua cams you are referencing come in 2 and 4MP varieties. You should do some research over at ipcamtalk.com.

For what it's worth - I have an Episode 12chan/6zone amp and a Triad PAMP in my system. The Triad makes my speakers sound better. I have compared the two within the same zone/speakers. Both work though, and the Episode is great for my non-critical areas (bathrooms, porch, dining room, etc). They both have 12V triggers that integrate perfectly with my Triad AMS24 matrix.

It works with any camera that exposes an RTSP stream.

It was something related to a new dealer incentive program. WEAK!

Thanks.. I just noticed that you could manipulate the screen saver under the T3's actions in programming. I wasn't looking in the right place, as always.

I would like to enable/disable T3 screen savers with programming (the screen saver can be too bright in bedrooms at night, so I would like to disable it). Is this possible?

That looks pretty cool. $300 is more than I want to spend *yet*, though. I picked up a Kill-A-Watt for $22.

I'm trying to determine how much electricity my rack is using (I'm having unusually high electric bills). Was considering ordering one of these Kill-a-watts [1] to measure. Any other suggestions? [1] https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=asc_df_B00009MDBU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167125429392&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3073158476690182747&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9014308&hvtargid=pla-306572288073&psc=1

I use the Sony XBP-X700 with no problems.

Have you looked at the OS3 graphics though? They are much nicer than older/pre-OS3 C4. I'm not bashing you or your UI choices, but I would agree that the UI in your screenshots look very dated.

Don't believe so. But - yeah, it's way too sensitive at times.

Right - I try to keep my lighting buttons on bindings.. otherwise, they tend to get too complicated and/or sluggish. However, I originally had my "Music" buttons bound to the Room Control driver's PRESET_CYCLER function. But, to achieve the functionality that I needed with LED's and the ability to use the button to join adjacent sessions, I had to convert the button to use programming. This is just one example. But yeah, I do agree with you about keeping lighting scenes as simple as possible.. otherwise, people tend to get frustrated.

... or just get the Vizio IP driver - which is likely going to be easier and cheaper in the long run.

You can hide a lot behind a TV if you have back-boxes installed.. typically only applicable for new construction, though.

But necessary if you want to do anything "non standard" like execute additional "things", double taps, triple taps, etc. The annoying thing is that bindings are always much quicker to respond, even than programming a "press," but you often NEED to use programming to achieve any type of advanced behavior.

You could use a Somfy remote+myLink (remote is necessary for initial pairing to the myLink). The driver is free (there is also a paid one that offers more functionality). I think you could probably use the Bond as well, but I haven't done this yet, so I'm not sure how that works. This driver is not free.

You want to use a Sony driver for a Vizio TV? Annex4 has a IP Vizio driver that is compatible with most Vizio SmartCast TV's. I use it and it works perfectly.

Thanks.. I swear I tried this yesterday, but guess I may have done something wrong. It seems to work great now!

I'm playing around with the Room Control driver's ability to sync a room's source to other rooms. One scenario that I'm trying to program right now is: In my master bedroom, if I double-tap the "Music" button and music is playing in the adjacent room, join that session instead of starting a new one. The way that I am doing this right now is I'm checking if the adjacent room is "off," and if it's not (it's on), use the room control driver to join that session. The problem is that I only want to join that session if music is playing ("Listen") and NOT if TV is playing ("Watch"). Is there any way to determine if the selected source is "Listen" or "Watch" rather than just checking if the room is "on" or "off"?

@Crustyloafer I use the Room Control driver, but just bind the PRESET_CYCLER function to the "Music" button on my keypad. I noticed you are using programming. Do you find that this is just as responsive as using the binding? I also noticed you have "On Preset" programming to select the music source whereas I have my presets defined directly in the Room Control driver, so the only programming I have on the Preset is to change the "Music" button LED depending on the preset. Why are you also selecting the music source in programming? Do you have any clever ways to use the "JOIN" function of the room control driver? For example, if I have music playing in my master bedroom, and I go into my master bathroom, I would like to hit a button that just JOIN's the adjacent session in my master bedroom (not start a new steam). Could I potentially program a "double-tap" on my "Music" button to do this (on top of the binding for the PRESET_CYCLER)? Thanks!

It's pretty common, at least with a few batches of the SR-260. Some people seem to think that it mostly affects remotes that have a lot of direct sunlight exposure, but I'm not certain.

What brand/model? I honestly didn't think ILoveC4's were loud.

There is no such thing as a Mac desktop app since the release of OS3. You need to run it in an emulator.

Actually - they don't sound loud at all. I'm curious if they still work in unison once integrated with C4. I also use the Somfy myLink with driver, but I have blinds, not shades. I simply recall MyLink scenes from C4 programming. Did you have a local shop install these? Mind sharing approx how much you paid?

Would love to see a video!