Darkimedes

ferda- Letterkenney on Hulu, all seasons...

A little cube USB charger does the trick, too.

I forget to turn them on, not used to hearing an engine after three years! Son forgot to turn it off the other day. I'm looking at it from a different view point as Time Of Use rates start to ramp up in SoCal. Customer comes home in the winter and solar is not producing. Possible home battery discharging to offset Time Of Use rates. Pool pump comes on while car is charging= big $$ (although most in this category really don't care). Tesla charging causes a pause in the pool pump and filtering, sets back HVAC, may even trim the lights back. Really comes into play when there is a grid outage (can you say PG&E)- that car will way overload the battery, causing a shutdown. Now the customer has NO power and his freezer full of his deer meat from the last hunting trip is going to go bad. Having the ability to STOP charging in this scenario is paramount if a critical loads panel is installed incorrectly. Being able to warm up the car to limit loss of regen or battery power when operating the heat/AC is an added bonus that will appeal directly to the customer. Especially those that may not have a set schedule for going to "work".

I'm a long way off from providing energy automation at a reasonable price to consumers. Higher end clients, though, have the Sonnen/Adapt/Cinegration driver they can use. Adding in information from a Tesla for these clients makes sense. State of charge, time remaining to full charge, and interior climate would be the variables I would want to program off of for energy automation. Being able to remotely start/warm up the car would definitely be an action I would want to trigger from Control4.

What kinds of variables will be exposed for programming purposes? I could have a use case for this.

I have the LB130s and the Chowmain driver. Works pretty well, if you aren't going the disco/rave route.

I was responding to @eggzlot 's suggestion that customers could have C4 do remote programming. I was a Lutron rep for several years- totally focused on RadioRA2. I taught BLAST classes many times. We had a customer refuse to go HomeWorks because he was not able to learn the programming himself. He chose RadioRA2 because he could get access to the software, but he needed the Level2/Inclusive due to the size of his system. Made him a deal- show me the receipt from my dealer invoicing design, programming, material, and installation, and I would get him access. Not Lutron approved, but saved a $30k install from going to Legrand. Customer passed the L1/Essentials test and showed me an invoice- I unlocked his software. He was told if he messed it up, the dealer would charge to repair/reprogram by the hour. Year later he threw his hands in the air and just pays the dealer to do what he does. I believe he is the prime example of 99.89% of consumers looking to program. They want to save some money for small changes. Lutron has an editor in the app, C4 has When-->Then. You may be the exception that proves the rule, but law of diminishing returns applies. No where near enough $$ for C4 to justify this considering the backlash from the dealers and the amount of additional code for the software. I would sell you a copy of Composer HE, along with a service agreement to reduce the cost of driver installation for you. In the long run, probably way cheaper than the $1000-$5000 you are suggesting.

Wife like the Nest and won't let me upgrade. Need to test adding this to my existing doorbell running a Nest Hello. I want to use the contacts back to the Z2C to try and pick up when the chime rings and then program off that. I cannot get 120v power to the spot, and wife just repainted- so cutting holes is out. The C4-Z2C doesn't need to be pretty, just work.

I don't think dealers would be very happy if the homeowner could call C4 and get programming done by someone else. While the homeowner can change the dealer of record at any time, I as sure would not like it if someone else came and changed a project that I was supposed to handle. Now when I go back, things are not as I left them and I have to figure out what was done. Result- pissed dealers and higher bills for the end user when I have to dig through and charge for my time. That would end up in having even more homeowners go to C4 for programming remotely, eventually turning "dealers" into storefronts that provide leads to C4 and do installations. Letting customers buy material through C4 at full list and giving a portion to the dealer or record? That is an idea I could possibly get behind. Dealer isn't cut out of the process (like 4Sight renewal) and should be notified when the homeowner does purchase. Dealer could thank the user and reach out to schedule programming.

gonna need to speak to my rep, then... thanks for the heads up

I'd use the RA2 Select main repeater, unless you have tilting shades: Venetian or Horizontal Sheer. If you have tilting, you'll need the full RadioRA2 main repeater. Aux repeaters/wireless repeaters as necessary for coverage.

PM Sent

Was that for the Chowmain driver for TP-Link or the Telkonet? I added the Telkonet driver, but did not identify any outlets yet. Mine did not come with any instructions, unfortunately. I have used the TP-Link for some fun stupid things right now. Trying to make a viable energy automation package, but it has been difficult to get the information I need. Thus, I was wanting to test the TP Link HS-110 and the Telkonet Ecoguard.

This is the HS110, and they work great with the Chowmain driver. I was looking for an in-wall version and was able to source the Telkonet. EverAction is right, really deep. And I was disappointed that the energy meter functions were not available. Would love to find a driver that exposes them.

I have the Chowmain TP Link driver, works very well. Go to Home Depot and replace that cover, or buy spares of the HS200. Chances are they aren't "wet rated" for outdoor use, and the bubble cover will not only bring it up to code, but drastically increase the life of the HS200.

Caseta SmartBridge Pro should be SDDP, but there is a driver in the database. Wouldn't need the Audio Pico per se if you were going to program off a Pico button press for a different audio source. The Audio Picos are more expensive, but more intuitive for the user. Considering price, keypad dimmer or configurable keypad may be the best way to go, both $$product wide and $$programming wise.

Join Control4 Programmers Group on Facebook. They have plenty of pictures of completed systems that will make you drool. Some of the before and afters are amazing.

Have an electrician put a two gang plastic weatherproof box over that single gang. Put a C4/Wemo/whatever your flavor dimmer or switch on one side and run that to the transformer. Place an outlet/GFCI on the other side of the two gang. Then have the electrician put a two gang "bubble' or "in-use" cover so you can plug in that other cord. Radio won't go through a metal box. Google Faraday Cage. Same reason a car has an external antenna for satellite and terrestrial radio signals. That's a Kichler transformer. Grab the part number and check the spec's to ensure compatibility if you decide to go for a dimmer. Otherwise, just switch it.

Drivers in database for Lutron Venetian blinds. Have lift and tilt. Should also work for the Horizontal Sheer.

Lutron's new Shade Essentials training opens up the Triathlon rollers to almost all of their fabrics. Full line dealers could do the Triathlon battery rollers with that fabric already. You should be covered if you want that style of fabric, just realize fabric is the true deciding factor on what these things cost.

That sounds like the best scenario, provided you have the Zigbee coverage.

If he runs the Caseta SmartBridge Pro, he'll have two Lutron systems running. No problems there, there are 16566 combinations of frequency and "language". SmartBridge Pro and a Caseta dimmer would probably be the cheapest way to go, homeowner installs and programs, integrator adds to C4. Second option, call your integrator/C4 dealer and see if he does Lutron RadioRA2. Adding a switch or dimmer to that system is easy with the software, and would be and "easier" add to C4. In all, they are probably going to be about the same money, so I would just ad the RadioRA2 dimmer or a C4 dimmer. They will be about the same price and keep things a little cleaner on the integration side.

I work for a Solar Company branching out into Energy Automation. We use a lot of SolarEdge inverters. I would love a driver for these (and Tesla Powerwall2).

I suspect that Cree was always using lesser tech in the mass market brands to keep the cost down, even though they were more expensive than other brands.