istreich

c4Forums Member
  • Content count

    116
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

istreich last won the day on April 8 2015

istreich had the most liked content!

About istreich

  • Rank
    Control4 End User

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Atlanta, GA

Recent Profile Visitors

1,144 profile views
  1. I have a fixed yellow triangle exclamation mark on the face on my audio matrix. No sound playing in the house as a result. Did not change anything in my configs, both Control4 and network. Many suggestion? Very frustrated. Thanks.
  2. I have received an e-mail from the Axis team that is running a limited 20% promotion until tonight - https://shop.helloaxis.com/products/axis-gear?variant=12283251777 I am still waiting for my unit (supposedly shipping soon) and therefore can't comment on performance. But they have confirmed they will release a software update to their zigbee version to connect it with Control4. They have apparently been working with Control4 to incorporate the Control4 cluster in their zigbee stack on day one so that it can be activated down the road. The link above is to to a $189 Zigbee (Control4 ready) and Bluetooth unit instead of $249. Just thought I would share it with the forum as I believe that curtain control is a problem for many of us with no good (and/or affordable) solution. But otherwise, I have zero connection with or involvement in the company :-)
  3. First the automation brand is dictated by your equipment. If you have a Pentair pump, go with Pentair automation. Vice-versa for Jandy, Hayward... If you have not chosen your equipment yet, there are forums dedicated to this and you will find plenty passionate folks defending one brand vs the other. Main criteria are around reliability over time, performance (especially for variable pumps) and costs/operating costs/TCO. Honestly, the automation is secondary to those considerations. Now that you have picked your equipment brand, and therefore the control tool, you have to decide: - exact automation modules as there are several options depending on number of modules to control for example, equipment... Happy to help you navigate Pentair options and pick the right size/cost. As someone mentioned above, those systems can get expensive for limited value. It took me some efforts to make sense of the various options available. And there is a good chance your pool builder will "oversell" you with a module that has more ports than you need. - whether you want to add a Control4 control too. If you do, you will most likely need to add another unit (for ex Pentair i-link that costs about $500 and that looks like from the 19th century!) that will physically (serial) connect your equipment to your Control4 controller. Then do some basic programing. Even if it can be done (which I am not sure), don't expect to replace the native pool automation system by Control4. At least not for Pentair. The native Control4 (Pentair) driver is very simple and limited. I have added a couple of screenshots. At best you can turn pump on/off (but no scheduling or variable speed control), control lights, jets, cleaner. Possibly temperature/heater but depends on system... No salt generator control nor alarm reporting or history tracking. Can't comment on spa as only have a pool. At the end of the day, I never use the Control4 pool control menu even though I was convinced I would. The only reason I would see is wider integration such as a "swim" action that will for example turn on the lights around pool, music on and pool lights... Or any form of integrated programming. But honestly, it is easier and faster to open the (pretty good) Pentair Easytouch app separately. Up to you but best option is to invest in native manufacturer control module and stick to it. Jandy iAquaLink and Pentair Intellitouch are good, powerful and user friendly systems. Both of them "can" be integrated with Control4 and you can always do it later. The Pentair interface (See below) os archaic and basic. Jandy seems to be better and more recent but I can't comment it. Don't think Hayward offers Control4 integration and I can't comment on their native system. But Pentair and Jandy are most commonly used systems By the way, it is worth noting that the entry level Pentair Easytouch does not offer Control4 integration down the road. Only Intellitouch systems do. And there is a significant price difference between the 2 with some additional differences. Easytouch is more entry level integrated system - Intellitouch "more" open and with more expansion. But navigation interface on phone, tablet or PC identical... https://pentairpool.com/en/products/automation. It can be confusing on the site but it is clear once you understand your needs...
  4. Thanks Cyknight for posting this. Great "primer"!
  5. Agree with Pentair. Although limited out the box integration with Control4. and need to add an expensive Pentair interface for minimal benefits. I believe a new driver has been developed and released for more deeper integration but I have no personal experience with it. Honestly, most users end up controlling their pool through the Intellitouch app on their phone, tablet or computer. I have both and never use the Control4 interface... and I was convinced I would :-) Happy to provide more details if you want. Both on Control4 integration and overall Pentair controls.
  6. For older boxes that still consume quite a bit of power in standby mode, you can also switch power off with a wattbox unit. Newer amps are typically quite efficient and stay cold in standby mode. But I 2 have older "monster" B&K multichannel amps that need to be powered off. Works well with wattbox via Control4.
  7. I bought my 700 from a (great) dealer but unfortunately bought this one used earlier on eBay I think. I could ask him
  8. I have gone through several Wattbox units and they seem to have network failure related issues. Am I the only one? My 700 is working fine (for now) but I have an older 600 that just started to act strange last night. Keeps on disconnecting from the network. Is it a known issue? I bought this one used and unfortunately don't have original invoice. What are the options to get it fixed? It is very frustrating, especially as notification is enabled and it has been filling in my inbox with connected/disconnected notifications :-) Thanks for all feed-back and ideas.
  9. VINCELdUB, did you post your guide with screenshots by any chance? I would love to see it too. Thanks again for your great contributions!
  10. +1 on BlueIris. Get a refurbished Dell i5 or i7 via Dell Direct and you are all set. Fraction of the cost and way more flexibility. Also look at Dahua as opposed to HikVision for affordable cameras. They are great. Look at ipcamtalk.com for more info on them. For irrigation, Rachio is great. and they are about to release a big new software upgrade. There is a driver available to integrate with Control4 but most people agree that it is not really worth it. But up to you. They seem to have really become the leader for smart irrigation. For landscape lights, a cheap but effective option is to connect your transformer(s) on a Control4 controlled outlet. You obviously won't control color but on/off, both manual and on schedule. Works obviously well and gives you the flexibility to use any landscape lights you want. Roku integrates very well with Control4, including native apps integration. In other terms, you can have a button/choice on your remote or device to load (with no delay) Netflix, Amazon... And you can use Plex on Roku. For door openers, I don't know for sure for your models. But if you can't wire to Control4, you have the option to use a CardAccess module to connect remotely to Control4. MyQ is an option but there seems to be a lot of back and forth lately on it. I personally had wired my garage openers to the back of my HC800 and it works great, both sensors (for status) and contact (for open/close). You can do the same remotely with CardAccess module. Great idea on keeping a list of "good" devices for Control4 users!
  11. On the other hand, fixed ip is better/faster if you need to change your router. Althougg it is true that some devices don't allow fixed ip forcing you to use dhcp reservation or both. I guess both approaches make sense and depends on your future plans and devices.
  12. Thanks Vinceldub. This is what I was worried about. Very curious/interested by what you come up with. Been scratching my head for a while to find a solution that would work with that type of mailbox and the distance. Looks like what you describing is very similar to a Dakota driveway sensor approach. That would be perfect. Nothing fancy but just indicating that the door moved... Let me know. I know I am not the only one interested :-)
  13. Hey Vinceldub, would you mind sending me your programing too. I use a Dakota sensor connected to my Control4 and love it. But I have done much work on a deeper/smarter integration. Curious what you have done :-) Thanks!
  14. Bumping... anyone can help? thanks!
  15. I have a similar situation and am planning to use a tilt sensor (http://nycesensors.com/products/ncz3014/) to detect when mailbox door is open. Good proxy (at least good enough for me) that I have mail :-) Has someone done it before and did it work? I have a stone column mailbox like the pic above. What range can I expect from sensor if inside, on door towards road (meaning away from house with stone in between)? What are the options to extend the range? Thanks!