Elvis

Then between programming and settings, you can do pretty much anything you want.  I have 4 keypads next to our bed (2 on each side) and another 7 or 8 in the bedroom suite (that was a bit of overkill) and I have no issues with light.  I have things pitch black at night although I do remember 2 or 3 days of hell (and the keypads looking like Christmas lights) at the beginning before my dealer identified them and added them to the project...

If you're talking about the current generation configurable keypads then they have auto dimming in them that you can configure. If you're talking about older six buttons then you do have to use programming to turn them off at night

Absolutely. And it sure sounds like it is in the works. Hoping for major changes. 

Takes less than 2 seconds if the app is running in the background. If I've been using it, it is almost instant on. If it has been a while, takes a second or two. Much better than it was.
If I kill the app, or refresh the navigators, it takes about 10 seconds. I can live with that.

New website made that harder to find. Not as straightforward as the old one, but found it under My System. Thanks Mitch.

Yes, it is very complex. jhead -h attests to that. Pages of help. Glad you got it working.

Me I’ve used it! 
 
I like it it’s pretty good,  nice solid remote it doesn’t feel cheap and isn’t slippery. 
 
it comes in a few different colours too (rose gold, white and black I think) 
 
you have to have the Apple TV licence in order to be able to use the voice control. 
 
the buttons are nice and tactile too, and backlit 
connects via WiFi like many other remotes now days 
(lol really hyping it up here) 
 
thanks 
M 

Absolutely. And it sure sounds like it is in the works. Hoping for major changes. 

Absolutely. And it sure sounds like it is in the works. Hoping for major changes. 

Is this your kid?

May be I miss something. But you can use Lutron Caseta Fan control. It can be controlled by anything (Alexa, Siri (Home Kit), Control4, Google Home) both ways. Turn on with Siri (Alexa, Google Home), turn off with C4

I've had great luck here with finding very reasonable and fast remote integrators. Sage advice.

See the Looking for an Integrator topic.
I am currently using @chopedogg88 and I have yet to piss the guy off with frequent emails and texts. Ha. He has been extremely patient with me.
I have used @AK1, @StroTek LLC, @Matt Lowe, @msgreenf and all are fast and efficient. Some charge by various increments, some as little as 5 minutes. When they are fast, and bill you for 10 minutes, that's a heck of a bargain. Not all of them do that, but most will get down to 15 or 30 minutes. 

I've had great luck here with finding very reasonable and fast remote integrators. Sage advice.

See the Looking for an Integrator topic.
I am currently using @chopedogg88 and I have yet to piss the guy off with frequent emails and texts. Ha. He has been extremely patient with me.
I have used @AK1, @StroTek LLC, @Matt Lowe, @msgreenf and all are fast and efficient. Some charge by various increments, some as little as 5 minutes. When they are fast, and bill you for 10 minutes, that's a heck of a bargain. Not all of them do that, but most will get down to 15 or 30 minutes. 

B.A.F.= Big Ass Fan (brand)
If using the Bond, you must install the RF module that comes with the fan.  That's how the Bond will control it.  Then you can use C4 control or the remote that comes with it.  The state of the fan will be shown as well when using the supplied remote.
Good luck!

Integration with B.A.F. or using the Bond, doesn't require high voltage control.  Therefore, if using either of these, you can use configurable keypads to program your fan speed and lighting controls.
If wiring fans traditionally, and want control of both fan speed and lights, then you will need at minimum a 14/3 electrical wire at the fan from the jbox (shared ground/neutral with 2 Hot).  You would install a dimmer to the fans light lead only for lighting.  Install the fan speed controller to the fans motor lead.  This applies only for fans that use AC power motors and also bypasses the use of the external remote control that usually comes with them.

Once setup this method is stable

Had you posted reasonably knowledgeable responses, I'd have considered you to assume programming of my system.
I have re-posted my query in the General Discussion area.  You are welcome to respond.

Yes this. Many of us run Unifi. Some edge cases cause problems. Mostly it just works.

I've yet to see one of these edge cases.

For sure let us know how you get on

If you have any problems or questions feel free to get in touch

Thanks
M


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How come you’re sticking with your isp router? Is there any particular reason for this?

I would advise to change this to another router.

I’m a mikrotik man

In terms of plugging everything in.

I would go router —> switch —> devices

My personal preference is to daisy chain switches

I like to use managed switches (I use either cisco or mikrotik)

One setting to look out for is multicast traffic this must be enabled on routers and switches to make sure Control4 works properly.

Second piece of advice - if you have network cameras put them onto a separate subnet otherwise you’ll just flood your main network for no reason with all the UDP multicast traffic coming from the cameras constantly streaming.

I hope that helps you

P.s this is just my opinion and the way I do things and what works for me, I know it many not be right to some people and I might get cussed but networks always seem to be a very touchy subject.

M


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First thing I would do is remove the ISP router or bridge it to your own router.
Second thing I would do is actually get managed switches. Unmanaged are great for ends of the network, but the Core Switch should be managed.
Third, have nothing except your core switch going to your router.

I don't have anything "configured" -- so I guess full access. The default settings for everything. I do have wireless channels deconflicted with the neighbors now that I live in a neighborhood instead of the country.

And I was whining about having to pay $150 a year for lake water. Dang.