Don Cohen

Ultrathin HDBT extender 4KX2K, up to 100m, with PoE function/RS232/Ethernet transmission, support: HDMI 1.4b version, 3D video format, UHD, sampling frequency of sound: 44.1KHz, 48KHz (info from the box). It's intended exclusively for Control4 leaf matrix. We don't have the specs but we contacted the manufacturer (China) and asked for more info which we'll provide to you. We're so confident in this extender that we offer a money back guarantee if there are any issues with it.

Similar experience with Cleerline. I still gravitate to Bullet Train only because I know the team over there well and know that I’m going to get things working one way or another with them.  Like @lippavisual mentions, Bullet Train also comes with the 5v dongle.  I’m shocked they didn’t find a way to get you situated, they love being challenged.  I wouldn’t give up on them.  Ask to have them take it to engineering.  Like most on our industry, these guys are nerds like us that just don’t take no for solution.   
Again, you are definitely pushing the limits, but it’s pretty sad that you aren’t asking for more than these products advertise they’ll handle.  

The first thing they did was send him a second cable, but it performed no better than the first. After that, they refunded his money, and basically stopped pursuing it.
He next got a cable from Tributaries, which had a built-in 5v voltage inserter. That worked initially, but then he found that it also crapped out. They are actively working with him to sort this out.
Man, I hate HDMI!!

This info may be well out of date, but I thought I had read that HDBaseT was limited in bandwidth (10gbps or something like that?), and did use compression in order to get a full 18gbps signal for 4k60. And it wasn't clear if that compression was lossy or lossless.
Secondly, given HDMI 2.1 is gaining traction, needing 48gbps bandwidth, is HDBaseT a non-starter for that type of application?

This is the primary area where I work now, and I agree with those recommending a 2.40:1 screen, if movies are an important part of what you're watching. As was pointed out, a large percentage of movies are in this aspect ratio, which was intended to be the same height, but wider, providing a visually more immersive experience. With a 16:9 screen, movies become smaller, and less immersive, the exact opposite of the intent behind the cinemascope format.
Yes this is less 'efficient' since projector chips have a 16:9 (or 17:9) aspect ratio, and perhaps 25% of the available pixels aren't used with 2.40:1 content. But in the course of theater design, one needs to basically 'do the math' to determine the optimal combination of equipment. Ideally, you would look at all options: Projector, Throw Distance, Screen Size, Gain and Aspect Ratio, before purchasing any one component. Choices with one of these will influence the choices in the others.
And for the absolute 'best of both worlds' an anamorphic lens, along with a video processor like the madVR Envy, can be added. This does raise the budget significantly, but the results in terms of both picture quality and ease of use, can't be overstated.
As for the size, my usual approach is for someone to determine their ideal size for a 16:9 image, where they wouldn't want it larger or shorter, and then assuming they have the width available, get a 2.40:1 screen of the same height, but now with the added width. They then have their ideal 16:9 image size, along with the greater immersion for movies. It isn't always possible to do this, given physical constraints of the room, but is the ideal approach.
And the choice of screen size and gain will impact how many lumens the projector needs to provide to have acceptable brightness on screen, which is why these choices should really be made at the same time, as part of the overall theater design.
Hope this helps! Feel free to pm to discuss further.

This is the primary area where I work now, and I agree with those recommending a 2.40:1 screen, if movies are an important part of what you're watching. As was pointed out, a large percentage of movies are in this aspect ratio, which was intended to be the same height, but wider, providing a visually more immersive experience. With a 16:9 screen, movies become smaller, and less immersive, the exact opposite of the intent behind the cinemascope format.
Yes this is less 'efficient' since projector chips have a 16:9 (or 17:9) aspect ratio, and perhaps 25% of the available pixels aren't used with 2.40:1 content. But in the course of theater design, one needs to basically 'do the math' to determine the optimal combination of equipment. Ideally, you would look at all options: Projector, Throw Distance, Screen Size, Gain and Aspect Ratio, before purchasing any one component. Choices with one of these will influence the choices in the others.
And for the absolute 'best of both worlds' an anamorphic lens, along with a video processor like the madVR Envy, can be added. This does raise the budget significantly, but the results in terms of both picture quality and ease of use, can't be overstated.
As for the size, my usual approach is for someone to determine their ideal size for a 16:9 image, where they wouldn't want it larger or shorter, and then assuming they have the width available, get a 2.40:1 screen of the same height, but now with the added width. They then have their ideal 16:9 image size, along with the greater immersion for movies. It isn't always possible to do this, given physical constraints of the room, but is the ideal approach.
And the choice of screen size and gain will impact how many lumens the projector needs to provide to have acceptable brightness on screen, which is why these choices should really be made at the same time, as part of the overall theater design.
Hope this helps! Feel free to pm to discuss further.

Yeah I know of no known bugs, and the instances reported here are the oly ones I've heard of. Something specific to the setup(s) is causing/exposing this: That doesn't mean it ISNT a C4 issue as such, but it does tend to lend itse;f more to some sort of mismatch in network settings. In the end C4 engineers are the only ones that can truly pinpoint the issue IF it's C4 related: they'll need logs and/or access via a dealer.

It's not a known issue. Likely specific to your setup and your network

Run them simultaneously, and wait until the music drops out

the new x20 series is an obvious choice, and yes they seem much more stable overfall (by the way you can use IETab in chrome, though I think it's paid these days). Yes there's a specific guide to get x10 cameras to work with x20 NVR and the other way around, it's hardly complex though, and it's not ben an issue where we've done them.
That said, Luma x10 series are still standard ONVIF cameras: any standard NVR can see them, though for integration into C4 you may have to put the cameras on a PoE switch vs using the back ports on an NVR

I meant to say 220 for the new NVR.  I don't notice the fan noise either way as I keep this in a dedicated rack in an isolated room and with a HVAC Mini-split unit. So I can't speak to the noise on this one.  Other than the issues above it has worked well.  I only go into the app a few times so far to look at an error notification and a few times to navigate playback which works well.  Since I don't have the most recent Luma cameras I'm unable to take advantage of the AI features shown in the demonstrations available on YouTube.  We just needed a new NVR because the prior model was causing lots of errors to the point it was not functional.

I'm in the same boat.  i just upgraded to the 220 NVR unit for my Luma 510 cameras and DS2 Mini 2 weeks ago.  There is a specific method to do the update for the Luma 510's to the 520's on their new NVR. My integrators were following guidance of one SnapOne tech rep (I was in room working while they were doing this) and it was completely wrong based upon repetitive 'offline' notifications from the Luma View app.  They then had to do it a different way so just be mindful of that if you go that route.  The Luma View app is much better than the previous one so far but still getting occasional 'offline' messages but not nearly as frequent; in all cases it never actually went offline of if so was for a fraction of a second.  They've submitted subsequent tickets to Snap support and have received no reply in over 5 days.

Reached out a few ways to C4 and they got back a few hours ago to say there had been (another) outage globally with the linking.
They implied it was only a short outage, depends on your definition of short.
Have now linked correctly. So if you’ve had the same issue try again now.

Another option is Spotify.  I prefer Spotify despite the lack of full integration with C4 because I prefer the Spotify app UI for selecting and playing music.  I am used to using this UI on my phone, PC or tablet when away from home so then using the same UI at home, and using the play to device feature to send the music to C4 works for me.  The only issue then becomes if you want add other zones to the music then you also have to open up the C4 app.  But this could be easier for your wife once she gets used to it and if she likes the Spotify app.
But not sure about the audio quality as Spotify Hifi was "announced" over 2.5 years ago but is still vapourware.

You’re right. Client wives have cared about many many things over the years but they never seem to care about the sound lol. 

Yep. Bummer, as a lot of people are constantly asking for this.

I think the closest "standard" way to access Apple Music via Control 4 is by putting a Sonos Port gizmo on you matrix and connect your Apple Music account to Sonos.  You can then access playlists/favorites via native C4 interface.  For more detailed browsing / discovery, you'd need to access the native Sonos app on your android phone.    I have a Sonos Port and use this technique occasionally.  Bit of a hassle, but at least you'd have a single source library for you favorites, etc.
There are other more expensive specialty products that (apparently) can get you closer to a fulsome integration.
Goes without saying but your stated reason for preferring Apple Music is better sound quality (Atmos/Lossless/etc.), this would not apply to Shairbridge or playing via Sonos Port.

Your summary is near enough right.  No easy way to use Apple Music direct / natively.  There are various workarounds but nothing that will get close to the Tidal user experience (sadly!)

SnapOne Status
 
 

I just wanted to finish up and close out this thread, in case it might be useful to someone else down the road.
Setting the JVC NZ9 to use EDID B seems to have solved the HDMI instability issues. Since the Arcam, Envy and NZ9 all support HDMI 2.1, I think more was being demanded of my otherwise perfectly functioning HDMI cables. Since EDID B supports up to 4k/HDR/60fps, which is all I need (I'm not a gamer), just using EDID B, rather than trying out new 48gbps cables, seems like a reasonable solution.
I also figured out why the web interface became unusable and dysfunctional. When the RS-232 Control4 Driver is being used, there is an Arcam setting where you select this, vs IP, for Control. When this is the case, the web interface basically stops working. You can log in, and it 'seems' like it should be working, but it flat out doesn't (at least it didn't for me). So I temporarily changed it to IP, and the web interface started working perfectly. It is needed to rename Inputs, more easily enter other information, etc., which can't really be done otherwise. Oh, and once it was functioning, it did show the Firmware version on the Engineering page: 1.58/94.
Changing Control back to RS-232 would then restore normal function with the RS-232 driver. Many successfully use the IP Driver, and wouldn't have this issue, but I have been advised by a number of people who found the RS-232 Driver to be more stable and reliable. I have no idea, but am sticking with the RS-232 Driver, at least for now.
I also finally understood how it is sometimes necessary to tap the 'Amp' button on the remote to access certain functions. Very counter-intuitive and cumbersome, imho. It also makes little sense in a Processor, but I do understand the reason, given the other products in the line. But I shouldn't need the remote much after getting things set up and configured.
Knowing these few specific things would have saved me many hours of frustration and trouble-shooting. Hopefully if somebody else encounters any of these, they can find it here, and avoid that.
I appreciate all the help provided by others here.

I sent you a PM on AVSForums with my cell number. I can also send you a PM here. 
 

Here is the thread:
https://www.avsforum.com/threads/arcam-avr10-20-30-av40-pa240-410-720.3098290/page-350#post-62696393

Thanks. I'm there big-time. I'm 'DLCPhoto' there, and it seems I spend half my life there!! 😆

If you didn't have it an IP network onsite. Or couldn't for some reason connect it to the network. 

Smart Recovery = Progressive Recovery = called a million different things depending on the manufacturer - and almost any thermostat capable on integrating into C4 has it (Including C4's own, Honeywell, Ecobee, Nest).
And yes it means it will target to BE at the temperature of your schedule instead of starting to heat TO that temperature.
 
Honestly it's like touting your brand of car has powered windows these days.

Smart Recovery means that if you have a schedule that says at 4pm you return home and then temp changes - then it will start recovery at maybe 3:30 so that at 4 it’s at the temp you wanted