Jeff W

This may not be exactly what you were looking for, but it might give you some ideas.  We actually cut out the rock to make room for a one of a kind custom made copper back plate to match the rest of the front exterior.   The copper back plate is wrapped around a base we supplied the metalsmith.  The edges are copper welded and polished, you can't see any edges.  The fit and finish on the copper plate is amazing.  
We then installed a flush mounted DS2 onto the back plate.  I think it worked out awesome, but I am a little biased 🙈

Eggzlot beat me to the post.  We purchase a Liftmaster 893 Max remote and do this for every single install.  It's by far one of the easiest ways to integrate Garage door opening/closing functions.  
The Lift Master 893 Max garage door opener can open almost any door from 1993 until now.  It works on any garage door motor that has a green, orange/red, purple, yellow circle.  it works on Liftmaster and Chamberlin doors.
Here is a chart if you want to find your remote.
Because the garage door remotes use such a low frequency they can travel a long distance.  Even if you can't get the Liftmaster 893 Max inside your garage, if you get it close chances are it will still work.  For best results, I recommend trying to hard wire it to a controller relay.  Z2io's are a good option too as a last resort.  
You can buy the door openers off Amazon.  If you've never solder before it just takes a few moments practice but isn't super hard.  
After programming the remote/button.  To verify you have the correct contacts, you can short them out with a small paper clip to make you are about to solder the right contacts.  
I do not recommend getting the Garadget device.  It's just as easy to wire up a Liftmaster 893 Max.  Once you do this setup, you'll wonder why you ever tried to bother with cloud based drivers.  
 

for those interested - photo of the remote and then the inside of the remote and how to solder the wires.  when you open the remote the circuit board will be showing the other side (with the battery).  flip it over.  the areas where I did the solder are for the button all the way to the left (Big button) and then the button all the way to the right.  we do not use the middle button (just how the garage door installer set up our 2 door garage).
If using a relay one wire goes into COM, one goes into NO.  done.
Sensors you can hardwire or get the NYCE wireless tilt ones.
This remote is in my rack next to my EA5 easily 60-80' from the door yet it still works perfectly at that distance.
 

@Gary Leeds UK  Glad you like it Gary!  
 
Make sure you upgrade, awhile back there was another "Man in the middle" attack that was discovered.  Ruckus did patch it.  At the time of writing this post the latest firmware is 210.10.10.5.246. 
 
While the Ruckus is more expensive than some of the other platforms out there.  It will outperform and out last many of it's competitors.  The features it has is pretty amazing too.  Since we became a certified Ruckus Partner, we haven't looked back.

You can have up to 16 Airplay drivers installed per system.  Each driver can be custom named and visible in the GUI.  You can give generic names for each of the airplay drivers or give names like "Dad's airplay" or "Kitchen Airplay". 
If you want, you can assign "Dad's airplay" just to one room or assign "Kitchen Airplay" (Your custom name) to the kitchen itself.
If you named one of the 16 drivers "Airpaly 1".  Any room can select it as a source and listen to it.
Disclaimer, in order for the last two posts to work, you do need an audio matrix and an amplifier large enough to connect all the sources/zones.  (The audio matrix is what allows any room to listen to any of the connected sources).
 

@Gary Leeds UK let us know how it turns out.  If you have any questions, feel free to ask away!

I know this response is late, but wanted to share my experience/feedback.
My opinion, if it's a small network, no automation, no AV rack.  The client just wants a professional network installation there is two options.
Install the switch into a wall mounted shelving system. Wiring everything directly into the switch with a service loop bundled behind the equipment.  We're talking approx 10-12 outlets, maybe some POE for access points is ok. Ideal for rear facing network equipment. Or if you have front facing network equipment, you can install a patch panel.  I prefer non punch down panels and individual jacks because it's easier to troubleshoot.  it's troublesome to re-configure wire in large bundles on punch down panels.  You don't want to pop 1 conductor of a random wire on a punch down panel. However, if you're doing a small - large home automation system, have an AV rack, and plan on using automation long term, I HIGHLY recommend going with a patch panel. 
During the course of time (18 years for my personal home) equipment changes.  If you installed something at the bottom of the rack, re-wire and install a replacement item at the top of the rack you're now creating additional work and more places where things go wrong. It sucks to have to make jumpers or extend wires inside the AV rack.  After a while it just gets messy.  After time, it's hard to keep track of what's what. I had to change my system out numerous times.  Prior to going with a patch panel it always sucked changing stuff out and I dreaded having to make large changes.  Now, it's much, much easier. We wire from the patch panels into the AV racks for a super clean look.  Changing out or adding wires is much easier this way.
A large part of our business is doing what we call 'take over jobs' in our industry.  I present exhibit A, B, C and D.

A= A small wall mounted shelf with rear facing network equipment. @RyanE will probably approve of the network switches.

B = Our standard Patch panels for our clients.  We make every connection live for customer ease.

C = Take over job and completed patch panel.

D = Not our work, this is what can happen when things get out of control. PS.  I hope it uploads in the correct order heh.  I'm not taking credit for the messy work.
EDIT:  First time uploading to these forums... I was hoping it would upload thumbnails, but nope.  Super big pictures.. sorry everyone 🙈

The Unleashed R550 is a great choice!  Everything from the R5x0 has a second network jack that can be used for connecting a switch/additional equipment.
The recommended/ideal place is on a ceiling due to the antenna patterns.  The access points create a donut shaped coverage pattern, there is less signal behind the access point because there is a metal plate there (at least there used to be a metal plate). 
Technically speaking, you will probably get less coverage if you mount it vertically/on a wall. If you place it on an interior wall and want coverage behind that interior wall, it will be less.  If it's your only choice then as a last resort its ok. 
If you really want to install it on the ceiling and are looking for alternative methods to fishing a wire inside a wall, you could look into "Plastic race way / wiremolds".  
Examples of plastic race ways or wiremolds
 
Before mounting it, you could place it temporarily vertically and see how the performance is for a week or two.  
 
Tip:  When you create a new wifi, it will automatically create it using 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz radios.  If you have sonos or older equipment that only has a 2.4Ghz radio, you can create a second SSID just for that equipment.  You can have a total of 32 SSIDs, yes, 32 SSIDs. 
 
 

In multiple access point setups I would highly recommend always be able to hardwire each access point.  It will save a ton of headaches on the mesh side.  Unless the brand has a dedicated 5 Ghz bandwidth for mesh traffic, each hop slows down the traffic.  In low cost consumer mesh devices, it can be up to 50% speed reduction per hop.  I know that can be difficult in some parts of the world based on housing construction, including in the UK with a lot of brick homes, but it is a better to hard wire each unit. 
Orbi has been reported with network issues / Control4.  It does have some challenges with SDDP, STP, Airplay, Bonjour and multicast traffic.  Netgear has two articles about it.  This was identified late last year.  Orbi may have resoled it, but wouldn't recommend it.  I know other companies have had some challenges with Orbi in multi access point setups, there was no Control4 product.  They had to get a hold of Orbi Tech support.  Orbi tech support was able to resolve the issues, but it took a couple of days to get everything sorted out.  I was trying to find a list to confirm the official stance but can't recall it's URL.
We've used Ruckus Wireless Access Points for almost a decade with great success.  In almost 10 years of use and hundreds of clients, I only had to remotely VPN into two different sites and power cycle the units.  Not bad for a run time of almost 6 years!  
It does come with a price tag, but it will outlast any consumer grade wifi/access point, has really nice features and has never let us down.

Just a quick tip
Ruckus 300, 500, 600, 700 are wifi5. Ruckus 310, 510, 610, 710 are wave 2 Ruckus 350, 550, 650, 750 are wifi 6 Ruckus makes the models above for two different platforms.  The standalone models will require a controller (IE. Zone Director) if you have more than one access point.  You'll need an annual service contract for firmware upgrades using the Zone Director.
The other platform is Unleashed.  This platform takes the 'brain's of the zone director and puts them into the firmware for the Unleashed platform.  You can run multiple access points with unleashed and no service contract is required for firmware upgrades.  
The higher the model, the more MIMOs, speed, antenna, radio patterns the units can do.

In multiple access point setups I would highly recommend always be able to hardwire each access point.  It will save a ton of headaches on the mesh side.  Unless the brand has a dedicated 5 Ghz bandwidth for mesh traffic, each hop slows down the traffic.  In low cost consumer mesh devices, it can be up to 50% speed reduction per hop.  I know that can be difficult in some parts of the world based on housing construction, including in the UK with a lot of brick homes, but it is a better to hard wire each unit. 
Orbi has been reported with network issues / Control4.  It does have some challenges with SDDP, STP, Airplay, Bonjour and multicast traffic.  Netgear has two articles about it.  This was identified late last year.  Orbi may have resoled it, but wouldn't recommend it.  I know other companies have had some challenges with Orbi in multi access point setups, there was no Control4 product.  They had to get a hold of Orbi Tech support.  Orbi tech support was able to resolve the issues, but it took a couple of days to get everything sorted out.  I was trying to find a list to confirm the official stance but can't recall it's URL.
We've used Ruckus Wireless Access Points for almost a decade with great success.  In almost 10 years of use and hundreds of clients, I only had to remotely VPN into two different sites and power cycle the units.  Not bad for a run time of almost 6 years!  
It does come with a price tag, but it will outlast any consumer grade wifi/access point, has really nice features and has never let us down.

This is my #1 reason why I don't like cloud-based solutions.
They can stop working out from under you, on the whim of someone in accounting at a corporate office miles away from you, and no accountability from the manufacturer when this happens...
For garage doors, nothing beats hard-wired sensors and a hard-wired relay connection to the door open / close button on the wall-mounted GDO controller.
No latency issues, no cloud issues, no firmware version issues...  Easy to setup, you don't need anyone's permission, just a little soldering to a couple of contacts, and installation of door position sensors on the rails.
Mine ALWAYS works, and since I have 2 sensors on the door, I know when it's fully opened, fully closed, and somewhere in-between those 2 states, and knowing that allows me to also know definitively when it's opening vs. closing.
RyanE

In multiple access point setups I would highly recommend always be able to hardwire each access point.  It will save a ton of headaches on the mesh side.  Unless the brand has a dedicated 5 Ghz bandwidth for mesh traffic, each hop slows down the traffic.  In low cost consumer mesh devices, it can be up to 50% speed reduction per hop.  I know that can be difficult in some parts of the world based on housing construction, including in the UK with a lot of brick homes, but it is a better to hard wire each unit. 
Orbi has been reported with network issues / Control4.  It does have some challenges with SDDP, STP, Airplay, Bonjour and multicast traffic.  Netgear has two articles about it.  This was identified late last year.  Orbi may have resoled it, but wouldn't recommend it.  I know other companies have had some challenges with Orbi in multi access point setups, there was no Control4 product.  They had to get a hold of Orbi Tech support.  Orbi tech support was able to resolve the issues, but it took a couple of days to get everything sorted out.  I was trying to find a list to confirm the official stance but can't recall it's URL.
We've used Ruckus Wireless Access Points for almost a decade with great success.  In almost 10 years of use and hundreds of clients, I only had to remotely VPN into two different sites and power cycle the units.  Not bad for a run time of almost 6 years!  
It does come with a price tag, but it will outlast any consumer grade wifi/access point, has really nice features and has never let us down.

Media player is much better at streaming than any TV if you ask me.
Roku is under a $100.  I wouldn’t bother with AppleTV or Amazon devices.

There is a Cinegration "Battery Agent" that might work for you.  You'll need a dealer to install/configure.  It does come with a trial period if you want to test it.  
Battery Agent
 

There is a Cinegration "Battery Agent" that might work for you.  You'll need a dealer to install/configure.  It does come with a trial period if you want to test it.  
Battery Agent
 

Setting aside budget considerations.  Having a touch screen in each room that has audio makes for a much better user experience in our mind.  With more and more audio services being online, the interface is a critical piece when being able to select/browse music.  Drilling down through menus is so much nicer on a large screen or putting in username/passwords for online services.  These are things that can't be down with a wireless/wired lighting keypad.
Having the touch screens in large common areas is a great option too. 
I love my Control4 system and the DS2, but there are times when the phone doesn't ring when someone pushes the doorbell.  I find it works much more consistent with the touch screens.  When the phone does ring by the press of the doorbell, I have to answer the phone, then I have to unlock it for the intercom app to start and then it takes a few seconds for the video to start working.  It takes a few moments and sometimes, people have already walked away from the door.  
As much as people always say they have their phone with them.  That's usually not the case when people come home.  A lot of people put the phone down and walk away.  Sure it's somewhere in the house but if they need it fast, they can never find it.
As good as the Control4 app is, it takes a few moments to load the system settings each time it's opened.  If you are on the edge of your wifi coverage then app can sometimes take several attempts to reload if it detects the cellular connection, switches back to wifi, switches back to cellular connection.  
Having a touch screen that is always ready when you need it to be is huge win for user experience.

My house has been emailing me for 13+ years or so on a daily basis for all kinds of activity.  Completely use to it 😃
 
It just takes a quick swipe on the phone to delete the emails, it's not really bothersome for me.  

Not really automating, but more programming.
I had to replace the springs on my Garage Door.  The old system last 18 years and 10's of thousands of use.  Door guy said the new springs would only last about 7 years or so.  He said it would pretty much fail after 10,000 operations.  Opening and Closing would count as two.  
So I made a script that would count how many operations the door has performed.  It emails me every time the door opens/closes and includes the open/close count.
I am going to see how accurate the door guy's guess was.... 😁
 
It has dawned one me, I may need a hobby 😂
 

Not really automating, but more programming.
I had to replace the springs on my Garage Door.  The old system last 18 years and 10's of thousands of use.  Door guy said the new springs would only last about 7 years or so.  He said it would pretty much fail after 10,000 operations.  Opening and Closing would count as two.  
So I made a script that would count how many operations the door has performed.  It emails me every time the door opens/closes and includes the open/close count.
I am going to see how accurate the door guy's guess was.... 😁
 
It has dawned one me, I may need a hobby 😂
 

My SR-260's seem to last 2-3 weeks.  I don't use them a ton but I prefer the charging stations/recharge models.  If the remote dies, you simply put it on the base wait a few hours (you can use it while it's charging on the base in a pinch).  Nothing worst than remote batteries dying and you can't find replacement batteries. 
Highly recommend the rechargeable version.   

Unfortunately, not everyone is as diligent as keeping/maintaining that level of battery maintenance.  These locks due require some level of maintenance in my region.  Because we can have large temperature swings from one season to the next -40F (winter) to 98F (Summer).  This affects the door jambs as they expand/contract.  When the deadbolt starts rubbing on the jamb/strike plate, it can chew through batteries faster.  I probably have to adjust my adjustable strike plates once or twice a year.
 
It's probably been 10 years for myself as well.  I originally had the Zwave Schlage locks before switching out to the Kwikset ones.  I have 14 keys on my key ring, I have keys for other family members homes, mailboxes, padlocks, AV racks.  I couldn't tell you where my house key is 😂  As long as I have my phone... I can get get into my house, so it's not an issue for me.
 
I think this is the key... sell more Control4 locks 😂
 
I personally do not like cloud API's, anything that can be controlled via the site is preferred. Have no issues with Kwikset locks.  

Lol... My bad... I just switched from the dealer forums here.  Saw the last couple of posts in the thread and wanted to help out.  I didn't realize the post was that old.  🙈.  I'm used to the dealer forums that were quite active.  I'll make sure to read the date on the first post next time hahaha.
Just want to help out the community 😃.  PS, nice to see a friendly face from the other forums here!