24" FireTV

[Time2Jet]

I am looking for a 24" 1080p Smart TV for my Master Bath Soaking Tub.  Has to be a 1080 since I can't scale down to 720.  I found a one that is a FireTV at Best Buy:

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-24-class-f20-series-led-full-hd-smart-fire-tv/6446230.p?skuId=6446230

Will the FireTV driver control the TV (Off/On/Volume)?

 

[Topfox]

I use IRUSB on my two fire TVs, although they are Toshiba brand. I can control those items with it. 

[lippavisual]

There’s an LG that I got my parents about 6 months ago.  IP driver works fine for it. 
 

Don’t remember the model though, sorry.  Pretty sure we got it at Best Buy. 

[eggzlot]

On 8/26/2023 at 8:03 PM, Topfox said:

I use IRUSB on my two fire TVs, although they are Toshiba brand. I can control those items with it. 

With the IRUSB, assuming you are using the IR Bud on the front to blast the signals right?  Not just using the USB input to send commands?

Are there any AFT with an IP Driver @lippavisual or anyone else in the know?

[Cyknight]

1) MOST firetvs work fine for media selection etc IF HARDWIRED. Wireless is a crap shoot (in that the TV needs to support WOL while off, you may be looking for 'fast tv' fast start etc in settings). for an acutal TV you'd be missing volume and likely power on/off in most cases.

2) IRUSB should give control over NETWORK. The IR portion is a 'side' ability on them that you likely need for power and volume though.

3) You're better off getting an LG as mentioned above, and if needed/desired get a seperate fire stick....or just accept using an IR

[eggzlot]

1 hour ago, Cyknight said:

1) MOST firetvs work fine for media selection etc IF HARDWIRED. Wireless is a crap shoot (in that the TV needs to support WOL while off, you may be looking for 'fast tv' fast start etc in settings). for an acutal TV you'd be missing volume and likely power on/off in most cases.

2) IRUSB should give control over NETWORK. The IR portion is a 'side' ability on them that you likely need for power and volume though.

3) You're better off getting an LG as mentioned above, and if needed/desired get a seperate fire stick....or just accept using an IR

I hear ya

I use Video Storm Netplay but no ethernet runs in this room and its not recommended to use VS Netplay over Wifi.  Since this is a guest room, and have zero need to have this TV in sync with other TVs, I was thinking of using an Apple TV behind a TV as my Cable Co (Optimum) allows you to use an Apple TV with the Optimum App to get Live TV so it will be a better experience for our guest room.

So looking for a cheap ~35-42'' TV to pop in there.  IP control would be nice if I want to give them an SR-260 to run it all and just know it isnt left on or something after the guests leave.  I could use IRUSB but I just find IR Buds ugly and in 2023, just want to use IP Control.  Really just need On/Off and Volume would be nice, though I assume I could control Volume on the Apple TV versus the TV itself.

Since I have Netplay/VS, I tend to try and buy Amazon/Google TVs, this way if I want to repurpose this tv in another room one day, its easy to turn it into a Netplay TV, but for $150, if I need an LG tv, i may just go that route versus a Fire TV, an IRUSB for the TV, and then the Apple TV.

[Topfox]

2 hours ago, eggzlot said:

With the IRUSB, assuming you are using the IR Bud on the front to blast the signals right?  Not just using the USB input to send commands?

Are there any AFT with an IP Driver @lippavisual or anyone else in the know?

Nah. Ir bud is hidden behind the tv. All through the IRUSB companion app you load. 

[videostorm]

On the integrated Fire TVs, the "best" way to control ON/OFF is:

1. On:  You can wake the device from SLEEP via IP.  Our IRUSB will provide this.  Perhaps other drivers will as well
2. Off:  Better to just set the TV sleep timer to 1 minute.  That way when the TV isn't playing video, it will just go to sleep after 1 min.  In sleep mode, the IP ports are still active while the screen is off.  Our IRUSB driver just uses the HOME key for the power off macro and lets the sleep timer handle it.

Using IR to turn OFF the TV will kill IP communication on most models.

BTW, if you have a good wifi connection (>100mbps reliable 5Ghz) you can use NetPlay over wifi for 1-2 rooms.  Just make sure your encoders are using HTTP streaming for best performance. 

[eggzlot]

16 hours ago, videostorm said:

On the integrated Fire TVs, the "best" way to control ON/OFF is:

1. On:  You can wake the device from SLEEP via IP.  Our IRUSB will provide this.  Perhaps other drivers will as well
2. Off:  Better to just set the TV sleep timer to 1 minute.  That way when the TV isn't playing video, it will just go to sleep after 1 min.  In sleep mode, the IP ports are still active while the screen is off.  Our IRUSB driver just uses the HOME key for the power off macro and lets the sleep timer handle it.

Using IR to turn OFF the TV will kill IP communication on most models.

BTW, if you have a good wifi connection (>100mbps reliable 5Ghz) you can use NetPlay over wifi for 1-2 rooms.  Just make sure your encoders are using HTTP streaming for best performance. 

Thanks I always thought Wifi was a no go on Netplay - that said I have a two room "suite" upstairs, and I have a hardwired TV in 1 room, I am looking to add a TV to the second room.  I changed the 1 tv in that area to Wifi to test, and so far, so good, so this may just work, thanks!  The other TV, when placed in the other room, will be about the same distance from the Access Point as this TV I am using for testing.

If I just suck it up, and IRUSB off an Amazon Fire TV can do Volume up/down, power on/power off right?  I have a spare IRUSB, so if I got a Roku TV (with IP drivers) + an AFT Stick for Netplay versus just an AFT with my already owned IRUSB seems to be my two options....

[eggzlot]

Also - anyone have thoughts if a cheap TCL/Toshiba/Insigna TV would have a better wifi chip than say the latest AFT Stick?  Because I could get a Stick + Roku TV (I like the IP control on the Roku) or just get one of these Fire TVs, but if I am relying on the Wifi for Netplay, want to make sure it has a decent Wifi card/chip.

[Cyknight]

I've been pleasantly surprised by TCL Roku TVs a few times in the last few months as we've encountered them. They've been flawless on wifi control.

[Neo1738]

Just checking back for FireTV as the OS of a TV the best solution we have found is IRUSB? I'm looking for only on/off ability. I could get by with an outlet that turns off to turn the tv off (not ideal) and a way to turn it on. Got one to use as a digital poster for outside the theater. Was a good deal on prime day. 

[videostorm]

41 minutes ago, Neo1738 said:

Just checking back for FireTV as the OS of a TV the best solution we have found is IRUSB? I'm looking for only on/off ability. I could get by with an outlet that turns off to turn the tv off (not ideal) and a way to turn it on. Got one to use as a digital poster for outside the theater. Was a good deal on prime day. 

For FireTVs it is actually turn on / go to standby  (screen blank).

IRUSB will work.  We also have Splashtiles (splash-tiles.com) which is probably the best option for you.  It is digital signage software, so it can handle your posters.  It also has a (free) C4 driver which can perform the turn on / go to standby function for you.  Plus it is either FREE or very low cost depending on your use case.

You can download the app on the Amazon store (https://www.amazon.com/SplashTiles-customized-digital-signage-including/dp/B07N4HNBZG/)  and setup your account at https://splash-tiles.com

Our C4 driver is at https://video-storm.com/Downloads/driver support.htm  (NetPlay cloud driver)

[neil12011]

On 9/6/2023 at 1:57 PM, Cyknight said:

I've been pleasantly surprised by TCL Roku TVs a few times in the last few months as we've encountered them. They've been flawless on wifi control.

What driver are you using for this?  I think Blackwire had one back in the day, didn't know if that was still the preferred method.

[Cyknight]

1 hour ago, neil12011 said:

What driver are you using for this?  I think Blackwire had one back in the day, didn't know if that was still the preferred method.

c4 has their own dedicated rokuTV driver

 

[Time2Jet]

On a side note, I believe Walmart sells a 24” RokuTV in the US. 
 

@lippavisualif you ever think about it, see if maybe you can grab the model # of the LG you mentioned. I couldn’t get the WebOS model I bought to work with the native or Annex4 driver.  I think the WebOS version was too low, can’t reminder the exact issue before I shipped it off to my kid for her dorm room.  

[LollerAgent]

11 hours ago, neil12011 said:

What driver are you using for this?  I think Blackwire had one back in the day, didn't know if that was still the preferred method.

No need for the BW driver any longer.  C4 provides one here:  http://drivers.control4.com/roku_tv.c4z.  

The one annoying thing about this driver is that it doesn't support setting a volume value directly (eg, you get "-" and "+" buttons, not a slider) -- which I do believe the Roku API does support.

[therockhr]

On 9/6/2023 at 1:57 PM, Cyknight said:

I've been pleasantly surprised by TCL Roku TVs a few times in the last few months as we've encountered them. They've been flawless on wifi control.

any models you would suggest? need one for a playroom.

[LollerAgent]

20 minutes ago, therockhr said:

any models you would suggest? need one for a playroom.

They are all pretty solid in terms of control.  Just pick a tier/series based on how much money you want to spend.

[Cyknight]

3 hours ago, LollerAgent said:

They are all pretty solid in terms of control.  Just pick a tier/series based on how much money you want to spend.

Wired: agreed. If Wifi, I've had some issues with RCA, Sanyo and JVC branded RokuTVs. Can't comment on Hisense on wifi as I don't think I've had to do one. TCL and Philips I have done a few on wifi in retro fits and no issues. I doubt either brand is changing their wifi boards so that part should be pretty safe regardless of model.

[Neo1738]

22 hours ago, videostorm said:

For FireTVs it is actually turn on / go to standby  (screen blank).

IRUSB will work.  We also have Splashtiles (splash-tiles.com) which is probably the best option for you.  It is digital signage software, so it can handle your posters.  It also has a (free) C4 driver which can perform the turn on / go to standby function for you.  Plus it is either FREE or very low cost depending on your use case.

You can download the app on the Amazon store (https://www.amazon.com/SplashTiles-customized-digital-signage-including/dp/B07N4HNBZG/)  and setup your account at https://splash-tiles.com

Our C4 driver is at https://video-storm.com/Downloads/driver support.htm  (NetPlay cloud driver)

Thanks have an IRUSB for a FireTV stick. I have a Raspberry Pi4 running my posters. Thanks for suggestions.

[LollerAgent]

20 hours ago, Cyknight said:

Wired: agreed. If Wifi, I've had some issues with RCA, Sanyo and JVC branded RokuTVs. Can't comment on Hisense on wifi as I don't think I've had to do one. TCL and Philips I have done a few on wifi in retro fits and no issues. I doubt either brand is changing their wifi boards so that part should be pretty safe regardless of model.

I have a small TCL TV in my bathroom that only has WIFI and it seems to do mostly fine with WoL etc.

[Cyknight]

6 hours ago, LollerAgent said:

I have a small TCL TV in my bathroom that only has WIFI and it seems to do mostly fine with WoL etc.

Well yeah, I said it's been fine with TCL

[Neo1738]

Funny question how do we get an amazon fire tv to show as a tv. My dealer threw the irusb driver in the room for me and bound the ip address I gave him but I do all my own programming. Thanks.