Cyknight

Yes the question is understood, the answer still is that even with a non-dimmable load attached, the dimmer module (output) is still NOT a switch and shouldn't be used for connections that should not be on a dimmere (vs a load that you don't WANT to dim or an LED that isn't dimmable)

Sounds like your dealer isn't the greatest in communicating but the gist of it is correct.
HC250 is not supported in OS release 3.0.0 and up (that's 2019)
As OS 2.10.6 (the latest HC250 worked in) is still supported, there is a sort of 'as is' support for it but it's very limited
HC250 probably stopped sale in the same year if not earlier so any warranty would have ended in 2021
I doubt any repair options even existed after 2022, but certainly aren't around now.
CAN you try and find a second hand unit (there won't be anything 'certified' and reload your project: sure.
Is that worth your money to get done....probably not - especially if you don't have other items preventing you from going to OS3+

Bit of a rough piece of text there.
 
1) You're simply wanting to have certain lights be full on or off: if so, the dimmer can be set to have a minimum on of 99% and a short ramp time of 250ms. This will make it act like a switch 'feel' wise especially from it's own buttons and keypads (but it will still show the dimmer slider on touchscreens etc.)
2) You have devices that cannot be dimmed:
2a) These devices are motors: you MUST replace the dimmers
2b) These devices are non-dimmable LEDs. You MAY get away with what was done under point 1), if that doesn't work, you will need to replace with switches.

T2? Heh that's not really a thing but sure. Yes, 4Store is long gone - if you want true custom wall papers, you really want to upgrade to a 3.x system and T3's/T4's - upload whatever you want, room by room and so on.

That one is starlink specific.

Uhm. just use a standard stereo 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable. If needed change the serial output on the port of the controller to null.

Uhm. just use a standard stereo 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable. If needed change the serial output on the port of the controller to null.

Ooops sorry, yes device variable

string variable x2 - must have two TVs in two different rooms
WHEN button is pressed SET string variable a to Room 1 current selected device SET string variable b to Room 2 current selected device delay 250ms SET Room 1 current selected device to the value of string variable b SET room 2 current selected device to the value of string variable a  

Uhm. just use a standard stereo 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable. If needed change the serial output on the port of the controller to null.

Anything over 5 years is a non-issue, 5 years in tech is ancient.
More worrisome is something like a 1-year deal. No knock against intrinsic there, but as mentioned, the chamberlain group haven't been known for their ... stability in 3rd party agreements especially on their cloud stuff.
In other words if it's under 5 years please detail the existing end date in the driver information - so that we can present it to the clients that end up paying for it. Most will likely accept it anyway: but if it's not clear up front that it's not a guarantee after a year (or whatever date) to have official support there WILL be upset users.

Anything over 5 years is a non-issue, 5 years in tech is ancient.
More worrisome is something like a 1-year deal. No knock against intrinsic there, but as mentioned, the chamberlain group haven't been known for their ... stability in 3rd party agreements especially on their cloud stuff.
In other words if it's under 5 years please detail the existing end date in the driver information - so that we can present it to the clients that end up paying for it. Most will likely accept it anyway: but if it's not clear up front that it's not a guarantee after a year (or whatever date) to have official support there WILL be upset users.

LOL, Didn't mean to imply anything, literally just informing that it's under the menu button on C4 interface.
I don't use ATV myself wither, but integrate plenty 🤷‍♂️

That would be the menu button.

LOL. Great thread reviver

C4 always selects the first path: While you could use ceiling speakers for, say, distributed sources, by making them video audio selection 1, and local sources use the soundbar by making it selection 2, you can't actively 'choose' which one to use when.
At least, not in one room: you COULD make a second room, use the same tv video endpoint for that new 'room' - call it 'room - soundbar' and make the soundbar the video audio selection point. Not great, but it would give a relatively easy option for your daughter to test which one she likes best.

LOL. Great thread reviver

Oh I should add, we use optical, digi coax and 3.5mm as available, none of them are an issue (and it's why we use the green audio one, it has all three input options select-able via a toggle switch AND it'll output all three on the other end simultaneously AND in sync with each other. Never an issue to connect it, regardless of what TV, what amp/receiver/matrix (or more than one amp/receiver).

The answer is, no you shouldn't be worried.
A decent audio balun will add zero delay. We use Green Audio manufacturing for this sort of thing all the time but I know of no retailer that carries them: many others will do just fine I'm sure as well - just don't go for the cheapest one.

Sigh. Stop assuming Ch25 is 'best'. It's great with a good mesh coverage in very high traffic 2.4Ghz areas - but it's a weaker signal strenght, and if poor mesh is the issue, ch25 will just make it worse. Not advocating AGAINST using 25 - just saying to consider the situation and not assume it's the 'right' thing to do.
You can find a free app on your phone to check how busy channels are, and while zigbee must be done by a dealer, if your own wifi it the biggest interference by far, you may be able to move IT to another channel(s) instead - note that only 2.4 Ghz is of real importance here.
 
If a reboot fixes it, unfortunately that doesn't really eliminate or prove specific issues. Dealer can check if ZigBee is indeed off-line or not etc. Hard to troubleshoot without that added info I'm afraid, but a wifi channel change or interference scan is something you may be able to look into yourself. Chances are wifi is set to auto - which could explain it jumping to a different channel and it all of a sudden causing problems.

? Do they?
Anyway, 4sight is tied to your account so if replacement is simply registered to the existing account, it'll stay active. And yes, if you for whatever reason get more 4sight 'years' they will just add up, not overwrite.
Often a life saver, especially on 'actively tuned' systems - systems get auto backed up if you have 4sight once a week.
 
Your dealer likely knows, but the biggest things are:
-Re register it properly
-3rd party paid driver will need to be re-registered (Blackwire and Drivercentral both have fairly easy ways for your dealer to do this) - THIS can be problematic when you have drivers that were installed by a dealer that is not your current one. Also, IF you have these drivers - you WILL need to have a dealer involved.
-ZigBee mesh, if running on that controller, may or may not reconnect properly - there's a chance that devices need to be reconnected. Note that not all dealers/installers seem to know this trick: you can set a mesh to allow joining under the zigbee ID menu in Composer Pro, and only have to go by devices to if you're REAL luck simply tap them 4 times (this will only work if it's an exact replacement) or do the zigbee leave mesh, and zigbee join mesh sequence: Meaning you do not have to fully re-ID all the devices, just leave that option open and go device by device to rejoin.
Again, for this you'll need a dealer.
 

Me, If there are no other wifi channels measured in the house, when wifi 1 6 and 11 are in use I'd lean towards trying zigbee 15 and 20. zigbee 25 is GREAT for when there are lots of wifi channels in use (as it's outside of spectrum), such as in apartment buildings, or some close density residential zones (or trade shows... 😉) but it's a lower power channel, so has a more limited range. zigbee 15 and 20 should be right in between/at the lowest dips of the wifi spectrum occupancy of wifi 1 and 6 and 6 and 11 respectively.

The one time you basically MUST use the 12v trigger is if you use announcements (especially doorbell) as the audio sense is too slow for that.
Audio sense isn't super slow, it's just not instant and thats what you want for announcements to work properly.
Either is fine really, the audio consumption of all zones with only one zone actually getting a signal vs only one zone getting signal ad turning is near to nothing (and 'wear and tear' wise it means absolutely nothing.
As for power off time, it's default 10 seconds for relay control (12v control) but settable.
For audio sense, I'm actually not sure, but I would think it's about a minute at least likely a few minutes, simply to prevent the amp from shutting off when it isn't supposed to (ie because you mute a zone for a moment, or because whatever you're watching is silent for a bit (think golf, snooker, nature/flyover scenes)
 
 

A security measure largely unannounced and with a shutdown of existing login methods unannounced to (all) partners. At least that is what seems to have occurred here.
Yes C4 will need to update the driver, but SXM making this change days before Christmas, then shutting down old auth. servers on a Thursday/Friday and then one before the new year is not exactly ... forward thinking.
Regardless, the software CHANGE was done by SXM: the fact that C4 needs to fix/update the driver notwithstanding. The question will be what it would take to change the driver: could be a simple fix potentially, could mean needing to work with SXM to set up a 'linking' page along the lines of nest/google integration....that I don't know.

To be clear, that software change is SXM's