Cyknight

I sort of disagree. I would want to control all thermostats from any room in the house.
That said, the easy way to fix it in this case is to clear ALL comfort from any one room (unless there's 'other' things you want everywhere then leave those) and then apply to all, then do each room with what you want. That's how a dealer SHOULD setup things to begin with. While 'apply to...' overwriting previous settings is annoying, it's still a step up from not having the ability to 'apply to..' at all.
 
More annoying to ME is that the first t-stat dropped into the system auto binds to all room (which is fine as such) but adding a different t-stat to another room doesn't at least overwrite the default tstat for that room (ie the nav displays that t-stat's value on the main page)

or the load (likely a motor) for that matter will get damaged.
 
While dimmers can be made to 'act' more or less like a switch in that you can set the minimum on to 100% and the ramp rates to the shortest interval (always forget it that's 100ms or 250ms) that doesn't make it an actual switch.
Those settings may work fine for certain non-dimmable lights (ie non dimmable LED bulbs - if it'll work is NOT a given though) - it's not meant to be running motors such as pumps or bathroom fans etc.
Also if the issue is that you're getting a short: it certainly wouldn't work to 'just' make it 'act' like a switch.

The lack of updated software on them is more a statement of how solid they are than anything else (note that there have been a few minor updates, but they're all still marked under the 2.9.1.xxxxxxx minor revisions).
The i/o extender is such a 'dumb' device that it really doesn't need to get updated to a matching version number for new features in audio streaming, zigbee, interface, streaming and so on and so forth....so they simply stopped constantly updating them as nothing oter than the software version number was getting changed. Think of it this way, if they DID update it only to match the software number every time, that would simply be a waste of time to create - and more importantly test - that software update.

The lack of updated software on them is more a statement of how solid they are than anything else (note that there have been a few minor updates, but they're all still marked under the 2.9.1.xxxxxxx minor revisions).
The i/o extender is such a 'dumb' device that it really doesn't need to get updated to a matching version number for new features in audio streaming, zigbee, interface, streaming and so on and so forth....so they simply stopped constantly updating them as nothing oter than the software version number was getting changed. Think of it this way, if they DID update it only to match the software number every time, that would simply be a waste of time to create - and more importantly test - that software update.

The lack of updated software on them is more a statement of how solid they are than anything else (note that there have been a few minor updates, but they're all still marked under the 2.9.1.xxxxxxx minor revisions).
The i/o extender is such a 'dumb' device that it really doesn't need to get updated to a matching version number for new features in audio streaming, zigbee, interface, streaming and so on and so forth....so they simply stopped constantly updating them as nothing oter than the software version number was getting changed. Think of it this way, if they DID update it only to match the software number every time, that would simply be a waste of time to create - and more importantly test - that software update.

While TVs have gotten better, long term support is generally much lower. IF the apps aren't supported anymore, it's much cheaper to get yourself a new fire stick than a new fireTV in pure hardware cost alone. in install cost more so.
Control over things like Roku Players, FireTV sticks and Android TVs is solid overall, and easy to troubleshoot both locally and remotely, TVs often are not easy to 'fix' remotely.
Universal driver support for media players is all but universal, support for TV apps is more fickle. especially Samsungs (need to manually first put them on home screen comes to mind)
 
 
Again RokuTVs are the noteable exception here.
As for Pro's to use Smart TV apps...are their really any? really minimal cost difference? Unless you have a Sony Master series TV, quality is likely better from connected device, at least not worse? Saving a single HDMI input?

While TVs have gotten better, long term support is generally much lower. IF the apps aren't supported anymore, it's much cheaper to get yourself a new fire stick than a new fireTV in pure hardware cost alone. in install cost more so.
Control over things like Roku Players, FireTV sticks and Android TVs is solid overall, and easy to troubleshoot both locally and remotely, TVs often are not easy to 'fix' remotely.
Universal driver support for media players is all but universal, support for TV apps is more fickle. especially Samsungs (need to manually first put them on home screen comes to mind)
 
 
Again RokuTVs are the noteable exception here.
As for Pro's to use Smart TV apps...are their really any? really minimal cost difference? Unless you have a Sony Master series TV, quality is likely better from connected device, at least not worse? Saving a single HDMI input?

This would be my first thought. If indeed it works on either port as a single, but not if both are connected.
OR possibly an IP conflict on the ports.
Of course a network card can fail: heck that's the very reason it HAS a failover port to begin with. And yes if it's just a single port failure overall (the thread is a bit confusing on that) and it's in warranty....well get it RMA'd.
But to the question if this is 'seen before': While I'd be surprised if ti was NEVER seen EVER - I can tell you I've not seen it or heard of it failing on a CA-10, and while I vaguely remember that I've had occasions where a controller network card failed, meaning without an obvious cause (basically, lightning strike entering the network) it's been rare, and I would say I can count them on one hand (and while I have all my fingers, I certainly wouldn't need them) - out of many hundreds over years.

Yes.
Well as a dealer, absolutely not: I would just tie the same lighting scene scene to the same button, or use an experience button with button links etc for the same reason, and set the scene's (or as available the experience button's) LED settings and the system just does the rest.
 
But if linking isn't an option for whatever reason, get your dealer to load the LED wizard driver to make this a lot easier, and yes put it in macros.

1. could be that the led settings for the unit are set oddly, ie blue for both on and off, or in your playing around you manually set the led behaviour to somthing different than 'follow load' (or if a bound keypad button 'follow connection')
Yes you COULD have a button on a KPD toggle the actual load, and set the LED separately. This behaviour option is settable in HE AFAIK.

1. could be that the led settings for the unit are set oddly, ie blue for both on and off, or in your playing around you manually set the led behaviour to somthing different than 'follow load' (or if a bound keypad button 'follow connection')
Yes you COULD have a button on a KPD toggle the actual load, and set the LED separately. This behaviour option is settable in HE AFAIK.

You need to use the DEALER code, not the INSTALLER code to expose the option for 3rd party connections.
Not sure on the Pro specifically mind you, but that's what it's been on current IQ2 software, IQ4 and IQHub

To be clear: you're not going to see any increases by replacing ea series with Core series when they're running under a CA10. Any major increases would be only truly noticeable when the MAIN controller gets replaced. (Apart from the fact that the CA10 is far more capable to begin with)

Yeah I know of no known bugs, and the instances reported here are the oly ones I've heard of. Something specific to the setup(s) is causing/exposing this: That doesn't mean it ISNT a C4 issue as such, but it does tend to lend itse;f more to some sort of mismatch in network settings. In the end C4 engineers are the only ones that can truly pinpoint the issue IF it's C4 related: they'll need logs and/or access via a dealer.

You're skipping over the part where it's not recommended by him to put in a client's house.

'vacation' variable true/false.
IF statements under the desired schedules.
IF vacation is FALSE
-do your programming
 
Experience button to turn on/off variable with state feedback (or heck, a keypad button)

Going a Video over IP solution may indeed 'fix' any wiring issues you have: what I mean with it being less of a direct replacement is that generally speaking, a video over IP setup introduces more of a delay. That is not anything that can't be dealt with perfectly fine in a new setup by choosing the correct accompanying gear, method etc - but going from 'standard' distribution to a video over IP system often means more of a major overhaul of setup.

FLA has posted about this in the distant past as well.
The problem is that it'll be hard to find where the issue may be. My first thought as I mentioned to him in a message as well is to take the worst offending room, use some local sources and a local controller or z2io.
From there, if after a weeks worth of good testing the issues disappear, start working backwards.
Use wiring to put control back.
Use wiring to feed a single source using a temp transmitter/receiver setup (if possible of a similar 'type' as the matrix, ie Video over IP or HDBaseT).
And so on.
Dirty power is often a catch all phrase for a lot of 'unclear' issues. True 'dirty power' it likely isn't (unless there's some weird connection issue with the feed to the house, in which case in 10 years a lot of appliances would have been replaced....). Interference is one of the most common ones put under that 'catch-all' and it's not impossible that that is (part of) the issue. That inference could be caused a lot of ways though.
 
Theoretically (bad) splicing of wires can cause some of the mentioned issues, but realistically -if splicing is doing anything in this setup at all- it's worsening an other underlying issue. If after testing it comes back to wires, it's more likely to be bad quality wires (or really poor runs that run for long stretches along with standard power wires) than spliced wires.
 
It's hard to pinpoint an actual cause not knowing the system in detail, including having a physical overview of the setup and the wires.
If using a decent transmitter/receiver works as per mentioned test options -especially if the current video switch is not one of the two 'standards' for HDMI over CAT- then the only true fix is likely getting a better video switch. Not that the existing one may be the CAUSE of the issues with video, but current equipment is more capable than that of a decade ago.
Local control issues are probably the cheapest to fix with a z2io 🤷‍♂️
 
Realistically, this may be one of those problems that needs a pro on-site.

They primarily aren't known for their..uh..durability. We actually have a handful of them left in the field from take overs (we replaced the ones we did with 500 series).
 
BUT they have one advantage: they have a built in matching HDMI output for each CAT out put: I would suggest taking the offending TV, use the HDMI out instead, and put a well-rated new transmitter/receiver set in between and see of that doesn't get rid of the blinking.

Binary has since moved to the MOIP system which isn't a direct replacement.
Plenty of A/V switches should fit in a 2U setting (you seem to have a slot above available) though.
 
If a replacement makes sense vs just fixing the one bad TV is another matter: depends a lot on if there's more to gain (ie 4K)

May or may not, hard to say. Regardless, even the router acting as DNS for the network and using goolge is better than ISP settings

If you can, you'll want to set your router to do a static DNS/Forward DNS (on the internal network side) instead of DNS proxy. 'setting router DNS to 8.8.8.8' usually means that the router uses the DNS for it's own handling, and means the router handles DNS (you'll know if your computer/phone DNS server is the same as the router address)

The issue isn't likely Control4 as such (though it's not impossible) but it can just as easily be local networking or ISP (especially IPS DNS server, which is why the first suggestion is to change the DNS on the controller (if not the whole network) to 8.8.8.8 and/or 8.8.4.4 and/or 1.1.1.1 Of course, for many 'Control4 is to blame' usually means EVERYTHING on the other side of the ISP modem/router.
Poor DNS routing is the most common reason for disconnects for anything streaming, and it's relatively easily fixed by doing the above. Of course, your dealer SHOULD know this already and have done it at setup to begin with. And yes your ISP will correctly state your internet connection is fine: it's failing AFTER you connect to the internet 🤷‍♂️
In most cases routers are out of box set to be the DNS proxy on a network (which is a poor choice if you have a decent DNS server address set) because most ISP use their own DNS servers (because, well data tracking) which are usually poor.
If that doesn't resolve it, ipv6 is probably the next low hanging fruit to take out of the equation. Easy enough to stop at the router. Not a likely culprit to be honest, it takes some pretty bad implementation on both the router and the streaming device to be affected, but a quick fix.
 
Oh and I assume the ISP modem is indeed just a modem or bridged/bridge port, because while often a non-issue, Double NAT can do weird things.
Looks good on paper, but it doesn't actually tell you anything.
If it doesn't work, it could still be the network, the ISP, the DNS or heck the C4 controller could theoretically still be a the root cause of it.
If it DOES work, it still could be the C4 controller, router or router settings, double NAT, DNS and yep, still possibly the ISP connection. Heck if it does work, it could simply be because the device you're using buffers more prior to playing

You can always see if one of the remote dealers on here is able so spend the 15 minutes with you while you're there. such as @msgreenf

It may work without further interference, I've had both happen. Still, a matter of a dealer logging in remotely, open a window and someone on site to press a button 4 times.