BraydonH

The price between a Configurable Keypad and Keypad dimmer is minimal.
And the Keypad dimmer will install quicker because you don't need to retrofit in another electrical box for the keypad, you just replace the switch thats already there.
And you get the benefit of lighting control. So I still say your best off getting the keypad dimmers and replace the switch in every room you want audio control in.
By that point half the lighting in the house will be automated and it wouldn't be hard to add in a few more lights and really get some awesome functionality.

The price between a Configurable Keypad and Keypad dimmer is minimal.
And the Keypad dimmer will install quicker because you don't need to retrofit in another electrical box for the keypad, you just replace the switch thats already there.
And you get the benefit of lighting control. So I still say your best off getting the keypad dimmers and replace the switch in every room you want audio control in.
By that point half the lighting in the house will be automated and it wouldn't be hard to add in a few more lights and really get some awesome functionality.

Rotary Volume knobs are not really compatible with a system like Control4, Those are really meant for old school speaker selector systems.
The reason I don't recommend them is because in order for them to work you need to run the Control4 amp 24/7/365 at a high volume and never shut off your stream so your constantly burning power and using bandwidth when your not even listening to the system. 
Control is meant to be turned on / off properly with the app. Not to be running 24/7/365 then volume turned up/down with a knob on the wall.
 
So long story short your best option is going to be to get Control4 Keypad Dimmers in each room. Not only will they control the light in that room, but you can have some custom buttons to turn on the audio or adjust volume. This is going to be your best option.

Rotary Volume knobs are not really compatible with a system like Control4, Those are really meant for old school speaker selector systems.
The reason I don't recommend them is because in order for them to work you need to run the Control4 amp 24/7/365 at a high volume and never shut off your stream so your constantly burning power and using bandwidth when your not even listening to the system. 
Control is meant to be turned on / off properly with the app. Not to be running 24/7/365 then volume turned up/down with a knob on the wall.
 
So long story short your best option is going to be to get Control4 Keypad Dimmers in each room. Not only will they control the light in that room, but you can have some custom buttons to turn on the audio or adjust volume. This is going to be your best option.

Chances are the Yamaha is controlled via IP, so you would likely need dealer intervention.
If it is controlled by IR than you might be good to go if you put the IR emitter back on correctly.

Yeah I mean by all means go ahead and get one of the most high end, premium lighting systems on the market and pair it with the cheapest controller available. You do you.
 
I will say in the panelized lighting training I am sure I read something along the lines of "If the customer has the budget for panelized lighting, then they have the budget for an EA-5" In training they basically say that as soon as you mention panelized lighting you should be looking at an EA5. Like I say EA3 will do. I wouldn't personally get an EA1 or CA1 and in the scope of a project like this spending the extra $1000 on a nice controller totally makes sense. Still sticking with the EA3 reccomendation.
But like I say, you do you. 

Depending how many dimmers you have around the house it might actually be cheaper to just stick with C4 and pay some one to modify as needed.
Could be cheaper than replacing every switch with a Caseta. Espcially if your paying an electrician to insall all the new dimmers. And what a downgrade that would be, C4 lighting (at least the latest gen) is better than anything on amazon or home depot. 

Also I hope your really not trying to pair panelized lighting with the CA-1. Thats more of an EA3/5 sort of thing most the time.

Swap out the 4 zone amp for an 8 zone. the old C4-16AMP is an amazing product. Then sell your 4 zone. Shouldn't be hard as the 4 zones were incredible value and I know alot of people would still have use for it.
Or you could always get 2 x Triad One's. But with that being said i'm sure a used 16 channel matrix amp is less than 2 brand new Triad One's. 
If your still using Sonos (and plan on using Triad One's) and not just Native C4 streaming services you will need to have the sonos go into one of the Controllers audio inputs. It will add a bit of latency but then your Sonos could be listened to in the Triad One zones as well.
Just get a 16 channel matrix amp.

Control4 can only live view cameras and use PTZ functions. That is a limitation of Control4's camera proxy. There isn't any system out there in which you can rewind and playback saved footage on the Control4 app.
The Luma "fully integrates" by allowing things like full control over the OSD using the HDMI output of the NVR. You can control the NVR with an IP driver. So you can hook it to a TV and have full control over things with a Control4 remote. It also allows for push notifications and things like motion sensing detection. If you plan on looking at your cameras on a TV frequently than perhaps a Luma solution makes sense.
To save footage or rewind things you must use the Luma mobile app. Saving footage is a real PITA with Luma. Also its missing ALOT of smart features that you would find on cheap cameras such as Nest or Ring. 
 
Luma is about as good as it gets within the Control4 space. But I wouldn't worry too much about the C4 integration and just get a Unifi system and use the Unifi app. If C4 integration is a top priority then go with Luma. 

Control4 can only live view cameras and use PTZ functions. That is a limitation of Control4's camera proxy. There isn't any system out there in which you can rewind and playback saved footage on the Control4 app.
The Luma "fully integrates" by allowing things like full control over the OSD using the HDMI output of the NVR. You can control the NVR with an IP driver. So you can hook it to a TV and have full control over things with a Control4 remote. It also allows for push notifications and things like motion sensing detection. If you plan on looking at your cameras on a TV frequently than perhaps a Luma solution makes sense.
To save footage or rewind things you must use the Luma mobile app. Saving footage is a real PITA with Luma. Also its missing ALOT of smart features that you would find on cheap cameras such as Nest or Ring. 
 
Luma is about as good as it gets within the Control4 space. But I wouldn't worry too much about the C4 integration and just get a Unifi system and use the Unifi app. If C4 integration is a top priority then go with Luma. 

Control4 can only live view cameras and use PTZ functions. That is a limitation of Control4's camera proxy. There isn't any system out there in which you can rewind and playback saved footage on the Control4 app.
The Luma "fully integrates" by allowing things like full control over the OSD using the HDMI output of the NVR. You can control the NVR with an IP driver. So you can hook it to a TV and have full control over things with a Control4 remote. It also allows for push notifications and things like motion sensing detection. If you plan on looking at your cameras on a TV frequently than perhaps a Luma solution makes sense.
To save footage or rewind things you must use the Luma mobile app. Saving footage is a real PITA with Luma. Also its missing ALOT of smart features that you would find on cheap cameras such as Nest or Ring. 
 
Luma is about as good as it gets within the Control4 space. But I wouldn't worry too much about the C4 integration and just get a Unifi system and use the Unifi app. If C4 integration is a top priority then go with Luma. 

I usually name in what type of fixture it is.
Kitchen Pots, Kitchen Pendants, Dining Chandelier, Living Room Track, Kitchen Valance, Master Pots, Master Reading Pots, Porch Sconce's Ect...
 
 

Or just pony up and get these headphones instead. Problem Solved.
https://steelseries.com/gaming-headsets/arctis-pro-wireless

Just get a standard 'Dumb' garage door opener that works with a traditional relay.
Use a Z2IO for the relay and contact.
You can get the package from control4, or if you want to order the contact separate its a "Tane-66"
http://www.tanealarm.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/TANE-66.pdf 
 
 

Yea there is an updated wirepath driver in the online database. You got it

I would personally skip on the EA1s in every room and maybe do an IOX in the rack. OSD really isn't the greatest anymore and im sure if you planned on having 10+ controllers in your project that you have incorporated enough lighting to make a very strong zigbee mesh without additional controllers.
The other thing I worry about is in how many years will C4 say the EA1 isn't supported anymore then you would have to replace 10 controllers which was already a fairly large investment. The EA1 isn't exactly a brand new product so who knows how much longer its lifespan will be. I know the EA5 will likely be supported for a very long time to come, but I can't be so certain about EA1's.

I would personally skip on the EA1s in every room and maybe do an IOX in the rack. OSD really isn't the greatest anymore and im sure if you planned on having 10+ controllers in your project that you have incorporated enough lighting to make a very strong zigbee mesh without additional controllers.
The other thing I worry about is in how many years will C4 say the EA1 isn't supported anymore then you would have to replace 10 controllers which was already a fairly large investment. The EA1 isn't exactly a brand new product so who knows how much longer its lifespan will be. I know the EA5 will likely be supported for a very long time to come, but I can't be so certain about EA1's.

Whats your budget? Your not going to get a clear answer on this one.
I like Dream Machine Pro with WAPs throughout. Or even just regular Dream Machine
Your also going to get reccomendations for Pakedge and Araknis but they're not going to be cheap.

Whats your budget? Your not going to get a clear answer on this one.
I like Dream Machine Pro with WAPs throughout. Or even just regular Dream Machine
Your also going to get reccomendations for Pakedge and Araknis but they're not going to be cheap.

1 EA3 will be fine. You don't need an EA1 behind the TV. Just use a cat5e and splice on IR flashers from your EA3 if needed. Don't know many people at all that even use the OSD anymore.
 
Sonos Connect definitely not needed. Sell all the sonos gear while you still can. Its getting harder and harder because most of the old sonos gear is now obsolete and won't work with the S2 app. (See C4 isnt the only one where gear becomes so old its no longer compatible)
Triad Ones are expensive but they are a decent product. If you only need one to replace the sonos connect amp then go for it. The built in services in C4 are pretty great these days. They're not missing much except Chromecast IMO. (Anything they don't have can be done though AirPlay)
 
And it even sounds like you have a 4 zone matrix amp which has digital inputs so you can use both streams out of the EA3.
 
 

When/Then lists alot of the programming.
Also you can use the "detective suite" which will show all programming. Not sure if thats in HE but its in Pro.
Go to Tools  > Detective Suite then switch to the programming tab

We always controlled BAF Haiku models with a Control4 0-10v dimmer. Why not use that instead of the IP integration?

Good IP Controlled Active Soundbars include
Sonos
Denon
Bose Soundtouch
Sony
I dont usually just get a dumb soundbar and hope everything will control fine with ARC. But by all means go for it. I do recommend a soundbar with proper drivers and integration

You hit the nail on the head there. Dealers sell it because its profitable and the support from Snap/C4 is great.
But it is embarrassing that the system cant even send push notifications. (Without C4/4sight, but really that shouldn't be necessary for a surveillance system)
And beyond that pulling footage off a Luma system is even worse. The files come encrypted and you need to be a wizard with VLC to convert them to something usable. Its a mess. I think its crazy that they expect customers to bend over backwards just to have a proper video file of the event their surveillance system captured. They even have a Luma video converter app on SnapAV.com and the bloody thing is bugged doesn't even convert properly so you have to use VLC. This app shouldn't even exist because you shouldn't have to convert the footage every time.
My favorite thing about Luma is the way dealers can manage all their customers systems with OVRC. It's a huge deal and it has made installations and support easier than ever. OVRC is the greatest feature Luma has, and its not even a feature that matters to end users. Its just a nice thing that makes your dealers life a bit easier. Luma Link isn't anything revolutionary but it is nice to not have to port forward anymore. Its not really a flex because almost no other systems require port forwarding at this point, but at least it exists. Wish there was a way to access the system with a web browser without port forwarding / VPN (basically like you can with Unifi). The Luma VMS software for PC is the most bugged thing i've ever used. The PC software for Luma hasn't been updated since 11/22/2018.
So I'll take a firmware update for Unifi 2 times a month before I would want a system that only see's very minor updates every 3 years.