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So you think its best to: 1) keep AVR local to the TV and get a 4K AVR 2) put a 4K Fire TV or Shield in there for local 4K content 3) put a left over AFT in the VTX to share with the other TVs 4) Since the TV is likely a Sony/Google model I’ll pick, I do not need any new hardware and using the SR260 I’ll have the same experience I have with the VRX’s, just “watch > TV” will turn TV on (sony IP c4 control) and it will go to my cable box? I do not have to go into the menu and launch an app on the TV each time I Turn it on right? My follow up questions: 1) how would this impact sound delay? I have a CMX and I thought the AVR had to be wired to the CMX - is that the case? What if I want something playing from the VTX (cable box) on the 4K TV and another room or my kitchen audio speakers (do this for ball games frequently). Wiring would be Switch in central location > Ethernet > VRX in console under TV > HDMI > TV? I have extra Ethernet, should I run some audio balun back to the centrally located CMX from the AVR? 2) the limitation here would be I could not be watching something from that 4K device in the AVR, then decide to add it to 1-2 more TVs around the house - correct?

@lippavisual @Matt Lowe or @videostorm - a few questions: Background: Current set up is VTX100 with a few HD sources (cable boxes, blu ray player, HC800 controller). TVs are a mix of VRX010 and VRX020. I have Fire TVs local on all the TVs thought since only 2 people live in the house I am tempted to just plop one into the matrix because its easier to maintain 1 unit vs 3 and my wife and I have never had the need to watch two different things on a FireTV at the same time. New apps, firmware updates, having to now get IRUSB for each one, etc. Trying to make it less headaches on me. I am in the market for a new OLED TV and considering the new line of Sony’s for 2018. My AVR is likely to be downstairs in the rack with the CMX so I can assist with lip sync issues, that is why the AVR will not be local to the TV. Though I could put the AVR local if needed. Onto the questions: 1) the netplay home page with compatible gear still does not list any netplay ready 4K encoders just ones that “may be compatible”. What’s the difference? If my AVR is located downstairs I’ll want a way to get some 4K content to the TV using my AVR set up with speakers. So I am thinking of a Fire TV 4K or a Shield or something and putting it downstairs to distribute because locally it would not touch my speakers if the AVR is downstairs with the CMX? My cable company (Fios) has no 4K content, so right now only thinking of how I can get 4K content to 1 tv and still get my AVR to be in sync with the CMX and my whole home audio. 2) I am looking at possibly getting a new Sony A8F or A9F TV. So given that they run Android TV, all I need is 1 Ethernet cable into the TV? That 1 Ethernet cable will give me C4 IP support and will hook into my Netplay system? The wire is already ran, and I forget if it is Cat 5e or 6, would it make a big difference? No need for any HDMI? I’ll likely run 1-2 for safety reasons and back up but just 1 Ethernet is all that is needed? 3) and if I use 1 4K Fire TV into the set up, I could still use that on a 1080p set with no problem with downscaling right? And it could play 4K contention the new TV and 1080p on an old TV at the same time? 4) with all this new gear there are a few Netplay features that I love including the text on the screen (use it when I set various timers), PiP (when doorbell rings I get a live feed on the camera) and the 3x2 or 3x3 PiP so I can see various camera set ups or multiple TV shows (usually ball games) with a press of a button. So still want to make sure I retain those features. what’s best practices here?

Thanks i have an older system with vrx010 and vrx 020 and need to find an updated solution for my fire stick

what if you are using Netplay Pro and not Netplay home? Netplay pro is not an option on your site.

so if you gave your housekeeper the code 1234 and your housekeeper came over and entered the code, could you get a text from C4 that your housekeeper showed up? if i had to go into the Schalge or Vera app to set up the codes that is fine, but you are saying C4 wil ljust lock/unlock and give status feedback but cannot figure out who entered?

C4 may have hired someone from Amazon - but they were also in the press release for integration with Apple. And that was at an Apple event. Not sure C4 is playing favorites. 100% speculation. But my guess is C4 will try to get involved in any platform - its the best option for their survival. Their entire sales pitch is joining multiple platforms - why would they purposely ignore Android?

If the beta test comes with the hardware count me in! otherwise I'll just be an on looker from the sidelines

for what its worth i use water cop works flawless. isnt as fancy with metering and all that stuff. but if my DSC water sensors sense water the water cop shuts off. its worked 2x already.

Possible to save a doorbell sound as a favorite and play a favorite off a doorbell ring?

I don’t use variables. My system is down for renovation so cannot take screen shots i have simple: - if alarm is in “alarm mode” (aka alarm going off) — if front door sensor I s open send text — if smoke sensor is open send text — if bedroom window sensor is open send text I basically do that for all 15 zones/sensors. So as alarm goes off I get a text for any open zones. Helps me zero in quick on what could be potential problems

I don’t have neo but another dsc. When alarm goes off I have open zones get texted to me. Gives me a fairly accurate idea of the issue.

Thanks. Not looking at fans and looking at 4 windows, certainly not over 50. Use C4 switches so no need for Maestro style switches. If just looking for a few blinds and utilizing C4 for other control the actual hardware quality is the same between the two? Sivolia may have another chip for RadioRa2 but otherwise hardware is identical? I need to be economic for 4 blinds in a living room that can be hardwired.

What does radiora2 give you over caseta if you already use control4 for your automation platform?

If you want just a basic roller shade - white, cream, or other basic colors (no patterns) and you can hardwire them because its new renovation, is there any difference between Serena vs Sivoia QS or Sivoia Triathalon? I am looking at Serena vs Bali/Somfy vs Rollease/Shade Store vs AVOutlet. So really running the price (and service) spectrum since Shade Store and Bali/Somfy via Lowes they will come out to measure and install. Serena Lutron and AVOutlet at DIY friend and at a totally different price point with AVoutlet using Somfy RTS 30 either wireless or RS485 motors.

That is more of a selective choice other than saying “Android” because it doesn’t have the carrier flavors. And as Cy said earlier yeah you are at the mercy of Android. Minus a 1 off issue perhaps over the years they support hardware for a decent time in this market and they are fairly predicate. Agreed none of this should impact a c4 touchscreen vs tablet debate because as said up in the thread iOS v Android for c4 is a wash.

I agree but this is why I left Android. Not a consistent experience across the board because manufacturers use their own flavors. Then you are at their mercy for support and updates. At least with iOS it’s a consistent experience across the platform and there is a decent history to estimate how long Apple will support hardware before its EOL. Usually not a big surprise.

Any updates here @jfh? still doing my homework. AVOutlet and ShadeStore have Rollease. AVOulet also has Somfy. There are so many options it almost hurts my head! I need to limit it to 1-2 options to show my wife, get fabric swatches, etc.

Not asking about Lutron or Hunter Douglas or options so please reserve those comments I am working with a shading company that sells 8-9 brands including qmotion, Somfy, lutron, rollease and others and for a particular need I have (particular size window and the need for a dual motor for black out and sheer shades) lutron was not an option, just Somfy and QMotion. Somfy RTS 40 was about 30% cheaper than QMotion in a side by side quote. Somfy is 120v though and QMotion is low voltage. These are all new windows or part of an extensive renovation, so I can get 120v or LV to that area, though I’d assume LV is cheaper and quick to run to the locations. So I need that info from my GC but in general is QMotion 30% better if install/wiring costs are going to be the same? The quotes included the power panel for QMotion and MyLink for Somfy, and both included measurements and installation. So really its “all in” pricing minus c4 integration and electrical wiring. Its not like I can go test drive a Toyota or Lexus and see if I want to pay the premium for the Lexus which is 30-40% more than its Toyota counterpart (best example I can think of off the top of my head). The quote is for 2 rooms, a bedroom and then a living room. Bedroom is dual motor, blackout shade and sheer shade, and living room is just simple rollers to help diffuse light for better TV viewing (that’s another question, what % opacity is best...?)

no problem with the driver I have for the IT-100 it is fairly easy. I just put a line of coding in for every key stroke needed on the panel assuming you were doing something direct on the panel. I put in I think a 250 millisecond pause between presses just to make sure they are doing in proper sequence. is it needed I dont know, but I did it anyways. so press * 250 millisecond delay Press 1 250 milli delay Press X you get the idea

I use custom buttons to do this with my DSC alarm. I create a macro that recreates what you need to press on the DSC keypad. example you want to skip a zone - so the macro would be press *, press 1, press zone #, press *, press #, press #, press # press away. that would skip a zone and put on away - I have my glass breaks like that so if I have someone coming to fix gutters or work on the roof or something I could turn off glass breaks while still keeping windows armed. on my interface i have those 4 corners with drop down custom buttons. I have 4-5 alarm modes outside of stay/away and I have the 4 options right there to pick. works perfect every time. again I have 4-5 examples of this type of programming

and the problem with a public company trying to make money?

Why do some people still ask why when we all know the answer? and my example isn’t extreme - it defines how companies offering the same service may do so in a different fashion to best service a specific market. If business class is required you got 3-4 other domestic airlines for domestic business class routes. But not southwest. Should they change? If you want DIY you got 2-3 choices. What’s extreme?

Wouldn’t it be great if Southwest Airlines still had general boarding calls and cheap fares but instead of all economy airplanes they had 1/5th of the plane arranged in business class and first class. No extra cost for the tickets though but you get the better seat and extra services like free drinks and hot meals. Just some people who want to show up and queue 10 hours before a flight can get business or first class for the price of coach. So not for everyone but it’s feasible for a small group who want to show up and wait in line Southwest made a business decision to fly all economy and mostly general boarding. Want a seat assignment? Want to fly business class? Book delta, United or American - they use a different business model. Want an automation system that is 100% DIY - don’t buy c4. Want one of the largest most robust commercial automation platforms that has a ton of DIY options but not 100% DIY then look at c4.

There are DIY platforms where people can build their own drivers. If that is what you require then C4 isn’t for you. C4 doesn’t advertise being a one stop solution for everyone.

Watercop integrates via relay. It’s tied into my dsc alarm via programming so if water bugs sense water it tells c4 to close the water cop i do not have water flow monitoring though to detect a leak without the water bugs