mallom

The good thing about Caseta is that you can buy and install it yourself. I usually buy my dimmers from ebay/amazon. After you install, pair and program everything on Lutron’s side of things, just get a C4 dealer to add them to the system. Just make sure that you are not dreaming or having a stroke when buying the bridge. It has to be the PRO version. Its the only version that can be integrated with C4. The Pro and Non Pro look and work the same, but the Pro version has a submenu that enables integration via Telnet. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F401781498236 My suggestion is: Buy a Pro bridge, one dimmer and one lamp dimmer, bench test it with the bulbs you are used to and see if meets your expectations before committing to a larger order and/or integrating with C4. I have 2 bridges in my system, 4000 sqft home, bridges are in located in the middle of the house and I call all mu scenes using C4 keypads. Its flawless. PROS: - cheap - diy - quality - Great range - Instant feedback - Works with LEDs, MLV, ELV (this model is a bit more expensive) and etc - Fan controller can be found for ~$50 - 1 lamp dimmer can be used as range extender - can be used with c4 keypads - You can create scenes within C4 advanced lighting agent - Ramp rate configurable within C4 scene - If you main c4 controller goes down, your lighting still works via lutron app (even if the internet goes down, but local network is still working AFAIK) - If you decide to move away from c4 one day, I guarantee you that Caseta will be compatible with your new HA platform. CONS: - Limited integration with C4 - No double/triple taps - Dimmers cant be engraved (AFAIK) - Dimmer/pico looks is not for everyone - Since its not c4 zigbee, they wont help extend your mesh network - You may experience “popcorn” effect when using multiple bridges. Its not horrible, but could be a deal breaker for some people. It doesn’t bother me at all, since I cant see all the lights that Im dimming at the same time. Lol If you can stick with C4 lighting, do it. If money is a problem and you can live with the limitations, there is no other system, in my opinion, that beats lutron Caseta/RA.

Zero flickering in my experience on either Caseta or Keypad dimmer. Can go from 100% to 1% on a single bulb. If I were you I would buy a 4 pack and bench test before committing to a larger order. Thats what I did and do not regret it. Im using their par20 and par38. For mlv spots, im just using regular MR16 50W from GE.

I use some cheap Hyperikon from Amazon and they work great with either C4-APD or Caseta dimmers: Hyperikon PAR38 LED Bulb Dimmable, 14W (100W Equivalent), 3000K (Soft White Glow), 1220 lumens, CRI 90+, Flood Light Bulb, Medium Base (E26), ENERGY STAR - Great for Kitchen, Bedroom, Patio (6 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077G4V6M7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J1lfDbWNNGQMW

Thanks Dan!

I have 3 of these on my own system. One for ATV 4k, ATV 4th and Shield. Works great. ViewHD Newest Ultra HD HDMI Audio Extractor Support 4K@60Hz, HDR, Dolby Vision | HDCP 2.2 | HDMI 2.0 | 18Gpbs | SUHD | Ultra HD | Model: VHD-UHAE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRT9VGL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CjecDbPC9N205

If you are getting a good deal on it, go for it.

We only use Ubiquiti with great success. Good: ERLite 3 or USG Better: ER4 or USG Pro 4

I also prefer doing the all the lighting scenes via Control4 to take advantage of the "Ramp Rate" feature. It creates a great effect.

Apparently there is no "dedicated mode" in the app settings.

Yes

+1 Ubiquiti Good: ERLite 3 or USG Best: ER4 or USG Pro 4

Same here.

Thats right. There are 2 bindings to be made per nest protect, one to a generic smoke detector driver and another to a CO2 generic driver.

https://www.c4forums.com/topic/30262-composer-30/

And if we weren't sure about the source, it can't get more official than this:

add this to your summary: Control4 is currently working on a new Nest driver through the “Works with Google Assistant” program with the intention to make it available before the shutdown of the “Works with Nest,” however this is dependent on receiving Google certification. Control4 is advising users to wait to make any changes to their “Works with Nest” or Google accounts until after the new driver has been installed. Users can contact their Control4 Dealer for assistance with the installation of the new driver when it becomes available.

https://www.residentialsystems.com/news/control4-responds-to-googles-ending-of-works-with-nest-program

I see this situation as a great opportunity to support even more IoT devices. Nest is big, lots of people use it within c4. Its highly unlikely that c4 will simply stop supporting it. I was just hoping that Control4 would issue a sincere and straight statement like Lutron did. Maybe they did and I just never saw it. Idk...

Ive been using the new driver since the day it was released. So far I lost control 2 times on both ATVs. The first time I lost control was just out of the blue and the second time was when I had to power off my rack for maintenance. After everything booted up, the only things not working were both ATVs. Had to "refresh" the bridge driver on both occasions to make it work. Have never lost connection using the older driver.

I use this one at home. Works great on ATV4, ATV4k and Shield 4K. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRT9VGL/?coliid=I1T1PA7VA2DOO7&colid=338T5HCNTYGEH&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Device > HDMI Extractor > HDMI out to HDMI Matrix > TVs (or Receiver and then TVs) > Audio to Audio Matrix or Matrix Amp

I believe the amp has 3-5V and 12v and the Audio matrix has 12v (not sure).. but, if I wanted to trigger via IOX, it should work right? https://adn.harmanpro.com/site_elements/resources/2220_1522183802/ALR-AMP-8.QuickStartGuide_original.pdf I have always used matrix amps with C4 - never integrated dumb amps. Im just trying to think what could go wrong with this setup. lol

Hi guys! What are your thoughts/experience using a 3rd party dumb amp in Control4's eco system? I recently bought a Zektor ProAudio 16 Audio Matrix and so far Im digging it. Not easy to configure/program it, but seems to work great. Still testing the LipSync feature, but seems to work fine. Anyway... In the future, I am planing to pair the Zektor Audio Matrix with 2x AMX Alero ALR-AMP-8 but not 100% sure how to trigger it via Control4. Have you guys ever used this amp and triggered it with a Control4 IOX? The plan would be: Audio Sources (Sonos, Roku, ATV) > Zektor Audio Matrix > 8 zone dumb amp HDMI connections: Video Sources (roku, atv and etc) > hdmi matrix > TVs I know Triad is great, sounds better, integrates better, gluten free and etc, but I would like to focus this discussion on 3rd party amps. I really appreciate any inputs and thoughts. Thanks!

@zzattack Just came across this post and Im very impressed by what you have accomplished. I just bought an used AUD1600 (ProAudio16) Audio Matrix to test at home and I am curious to know if your app would be able pull the info from them as well? Thanks!

Use the AV Path Setter driver.