Topfox

Totally worked. Thanks, but the variable type needed to be Device is instead of String. Otherwise you couldn’t pick current select device. I am beyond excited this is working. Ive missed the ability to do this ever since 2.10! Lol. Guess I should have asked a lot sooner. Thanks again SO much.

Thanks. Will give it a shot. Yep each tv is in its own room.

Basically what I would like to do is through a one button press swap active sources between Tvs. Example TV 1 is on Cable 1 TV 2 is on Cable 2 Id like to have a single button that would swap sources between the two TVs, so on press it would be TV 1 on Cable 2 TV 2 on Cable 1 Then if I press the same button again it will be TV 1 on Cable 1 TV 2 of Cable 2 There used to be a driver that did this back in the day, but C4 let that die back in 2.9 I think. I keep wanting to try newish Multi Display feature, but it just doesn't work for me in how I use my setup. It looks like Room Control Driver tasks last watched source, but can't seem to figure out how to pass that to a different TV to change their source.

Wonder what those future features may be. Looking at the existing comparison of 4sight to Connect, I don’t see any of the new stuff that I would personally care about but guess there could be something new in the future. Would probably require me to update all my EA controllers to Core controllers to.

So do I just load up on 4sight subscriptions to save me money for a few years? Lol serious question though. I’d bank a few years if that works.

Is anyone noticing Zwave issues since the update right before this one? My neighbor is running a Core 3 and has all Zwave switches. When his system got iograded to the release pre this release his Zwave dimmer switches no longer work properly. He turns them on at the switch itself and within like 30 seconds they turn themselves off. His normal Zwave on/off switches don’t have an issue. Seems to be unique to dimmers only. Other than the two uogrades and the Zwave driver update from August nothing has changed on his system. He had his system upgraded to this latest version hoping it would resolve the issue, but it didn’t. If he unplugs his Core 3 and then tries to use the dimmer switches they work properly. Also if he doesn’t touch the switch at all and controls the lights on those dimmers just from the C4 app there is no issue.

I tend to agree. Most people I talk to about C4 first question is does it require a subscription. So that is going to change. I think the world is starting to get subscription burn out.

Same. Have a few folks who are already interested to see how this pans out that used to use the old driver before MyQ shut it down.

As a user, I wasn’t even happy when they increased the 4sight price. Very curious how this Connect part will play out. Definitely don’t see myself paying any assist type package, but I’m a pretty technical person myself.

Aight. Will look into it. I thought this was the advanced driver.

Hikvision nonPTZ - ver 20231220 is the version so guess a ticket is needed. Thanks

The TV driver was in the C4 official driver store, and since I use CEC and Arc the TV auto controls the sound bar.

Something I’ve noticed is anytime there is a C4 update for the controller it’s seems my Chowmain Hikivsion driver reverts the preferred stream from 2 back to 1. Which in my configuration stream 1 is a resolution that C4 can’t handle, so I have to remember to go back in and change the stream back to 2 or I just get black squares in C4 for my IP cameras off my Hikvision NVR. Don’t know if others have seen this, but if I’m missing something I should be doing let me know.

I would try to direct connect the box to one of the non functioning TVs to see if it works when you take the matrix out of the mix. My guess though is it’s picking up an EDID for the other TVs and passing a resolution that’s higher than those 3 TVs can handle. Some things you can additionally try into remove the calibration and don’t recalibrate it. Additionally you can also try to group those devices/tvs forget which one it is. Think the setting was advanced Edid group or something like that. When I had the same matrix I had 2 newer TVs than all the other TVs in my house and that was the only way I could get them to work with my

You can look here: https://drivers.control4.com/solr/drivers/browse

I’ve found massive inconsistencies when trying to use the Mini App for Art Mode. It barely ever works for me, but doing Art Mode with programming instead works most of the time.

Pretty sure that’s correct. You matrix is what will control if the room is playing sound or not, but the trigger will Light up the whole amp.

Mine were working solid for awhile, but more recently they have been having issues going into Artwork mode through programming. Messes up maybe 25% of the time now. No changes on the programming side. Never had any power on/off issues though. But yeah the Frames can be finicky.

Did you go into connections and map it in the network area where you map IP and Zigbee devices?

Prob a dumb question, but will ask anyway, you are hardwired to the network right.

Figured Id share this in case it would help someone in the future. Background: Samsung TV 2021 model year and Samsung HW-Q60V Soundbar Connection 1st Attempt: Source Input to HDMI 1 port on TV, Soundbar eArc port to HDMI 2 eArc port on TV. Result: Soundbar worked great, came online fast, could change volume through a single remote, survived power on/off cycles. Problem: Any content using DTS would not play sound, and research showed many people have this problem with Samsung TVs not passing through DTS audio. Connection 2nd Attempt: Source Input to HDMI port of Soundbar, Soundbar eArc port to HDMI 2 eArc port on TV. Result: Soundbar initially worked without issue and played both Atmos and DTS content. Problem: However after a power on/off cycle the TV would revert back to TV speakers instead of the soundbar and it would take CEC roughly 45 sec to turn on the soundbar. Research showed lots of folks ran into this issue and would find unplugging the TV and plugging it back in would temporarily resolve the issue. One user and put a automated plug on the TV in which they would cut the power routinely to "reset CEC". Resolution: Connection 2nd attempt. After a ton of different tests and settings configurations, Ive finally found configuration that seems to be working. If I leverage the original TV remote things were working more consistently, but when using the IP Control to power on the TV I would almost always have the TV lose the soundbar as the default speaker. One thing that caught my eye was everytime I used the original TV remote I would see the Samsung Tizen splash screen, however when using IP Control Id never see it. This led me into the "secret service menu" for Samsung and I found the Instant On setting. I turned this off and now I see the splash screen when using IP Control for power on and its maintaining the soundbar config. Thought it was all solved but then I would turn off the TV and comeback 5 min later and find the TV on again. If I turned on Instant On again this auto turning on of the TV would go away. Led me to another hunt within the service menu and i found a setting for Auto Power On that was set to Last State. I changed this to Off and now that issue is gone. Note: Instant On nor Auto Power On are not exposed at all in the standard TV Settings Menu. Anyway, thought I would share in case it might help someone else. It was driving me a little nutty for a couple of days and I almost just returned these soundbars I picked up....Guess I could have switched to IR control and probably solved it to but who wants to do that.

Same. Although I’m doing this for things like ease of ability to swap sources between multiple screens on a single wall and also for knowing which sources support things like Atmos and which I have configured not to since I have a mix of TVs with varying surround capabilities but don’t want to lock devices to rooms.

IP address conflict maybe? Maybe it “steals” as the primary but then overtime the conflicting devices “steals” it back. Just a guess. also good to note on Samsung devices there is like a 30 sec delay with power on/off. If you turn it off and then immediately try to turn it back on you have to wait 30 secs.

Now icons like this example I could totally get behind. 1000% better than my blue squares.

Just noticed when I bring up my room list on my phone app, it’s now showing squares next to the name of the room which appears to be whatever the background is for my room. Does it only follow the room background or can you set it to something separate from the room background. Currently I’m not a big fan of the feature, semi distracting but then again all my backgrounds are basically the same blue color. Maybe it would be more appealing if I was using something different.