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About BakerBalay

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    Control4 End User

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    Escondido, CA

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  1. Nice! Way to make a smart home that has functionality beyond most of the "fun" things C4 does.
  2. Called tech for something unrelated this morning, they are actively pursuing the "Works with Google Assistant". I'll take a wait and see approach as the deadlines loom. In the mean time, looking to alternates so that I'm not screwed with upcoming installs.
  3. I had a job where the iOS devices were working fine, while the primary user had Android. Stopped working a while ago. Deleted his app and removed the device from my.control4.com, then re-installed and logged in. All working fine now.
  4. I worked in electrical distribution for years. These bulbs are almost always garbage, not to mention direct wire to the tombstones may violate local code and the UL listing for the fixture. Also a good way for the maintenance people to hurt themselves. Use the 0-10v dimmer with these- https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-4-ft-50-Watt-White-Integrated-LED-Strip-Light-MNSL-L48-2LL-MVOLT-40K-80CRI-M6/300263608 I have these in my garage. Not listed as dimmable, but when I opened the fixture to mount them, the ballast was 0-10v. May want to check before mounting one by opening them in the store. Replaced two strip fixtures with these, and way more light. You would need to run the 0-10v (control) wires, but doorbell wire works great for this, just don't share the same conduit with the 120/277v power. Heck, zip tie the bell wire to the outside of the conduit. Run an 18/2 bell for best results.
  5. In the timer agent, select "repeating" for the timer.
  6. There are 3 C4 drivers for the Graphik Eye. Make sure to pick the one that is not Homeworks (HW) or RadioRA2. I believe there is an aftermarket driver for these via serial, but can't remember where.
  7. It should work fine. It's just a capacitor- 6mA@120v. Designed to run in parallel with the first fixture, or jump from the dimmed hot off the dimmer to the neutral in the switch box. Really depends on why the LEDs are flickering. Usually I see them used when the first fixture is "ghosting" or staying slightly on when the switch/dimmer is OFF. I have seen the shunt cap quell flickering as well. They're cheap, give it a try. Should be no more than about $5. Amazon pricing is about $11-20. Maybe Lutron raised the cost after I left distribution. Check with your local Lutron wholesale house, may find better pricing. SnapAV did not show them on their website. I know several houses that stock them here in San Diego. Send me a message if you need help.
  8. 16E should be a commercial model. You'll need to go IR, the main repeater won't be able to connect. That wireless is limited to the sensors, Picos, and wireless shades. You could also go with the NWK, but I was strictly resi on the spec side, so am unaware of he exact parts and pieces required. Lutron Tech can tell you what you need and/or give you a link for the IR codes.
  9. You can only bring in a RadioRA2 main repeater if the Graphik Eye is a QS wireless, and then communicate via Clear Connect. If the GE is not wireless comm, then you can run an IR to the front or back and control it that way. Codes are available from Lutron directly, and you can make your own driver if you can't find one. Ex-Lutron rep, saw this more than once.
  10. New to Control4, but did a lot of Lutron and LEDs. Are you running the neutral wire on the dimmers? There is always better performance with a neutral wire. Lutron and C4 dimmers never truly "turn off". They need to be powered on for the radios (Zigbee, ClearConnect, Embernet) to have power and the LEDs on the side to provide feedback. Consequently, there is a small micro current that "bleeds" onto your lighting circuit. You could try to source a Lutron LUT-MLC shunt capacitor (6mA @ 120V). This would remove the bleed and hopefully calm the LED lights down. It you want a quick test, throw an old school incandescent bulb in on the first fixture in line. If everything behaves, then try the shunt capacitor. You may need to move the incandescent bulb around if you don't know which is first on the switch leg. Also, what LED lights are you using? Verify that they are dimmable. Dimming a non-dimmable source is VERY bad in some instances. Like, burn your house down bad.
  11. Lutron could probably supply the codes that can be used to make a driver. Have your dealer install a Z2IO and run the IR from Control4.
  12. You could use this in a push notification as well. But makes no sense, really. Lighting loads are a relatively small percentage of he energy used in a home. We need something like the old Eragy that can import the data from multiple sources/circuits. Solar, generators, batteries, EV chargers, pool pumps, etc.
  13. I followed this, but copied the Home code to HDMI4. Checked Menu code and it works the same.
  14. I was a Lutron rep, and we added them to our line-card for really odd windows and designs. If they can't, then no one can.
  15. Super trick is the Home Integration panel from Infratech. Allows for 0-10v control of the heat, and you would need a switch for turning the relays on and off. I've used with Lutron RadioRA2 Inclusive many times. Downside is the heater turns up on the navigators as a light. You would probably have to create a room specific to the heaters, ie. "Back Patio" and then "Back Patio Heaters".
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