C4loso

https://www.pulse-eight.com/c/74

Check out pulse eight


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Technically he can join audio zones from Sonos to C4. But it could be janky and require using both C4 and sonos apps.

Basically you need a sonos port. Connect both input and output to the matrix. When I’m your garage and playing music elsewhere in the house ~> add the port to that audio session then add the Sonos in the garage?


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I apologize for my negative comments about ari .  just wasn't a good fit.

I think smarter push notifications is something c4 should work on. The ability to link back to the device that sent you the message. Easy win would be snapshots going to cameras. Lots of opportunity on custom buttons or commands sent with push notifications. C4 could also offer high priority push notifications that can be delivered through DND mode (alarm going off). Lots of room to grow. 

OK I'll bite.
 
It'll be:
Any SOURCES go to the matrix RCA inputs
Matrix RCA OUTPUTS go to RCA INPUTS on the amp
Amp SPEAKER outputs (these are phoenix style connectors so this could throw you off a bit i suppose) connect to the speaker wires going to the speakers.
 
Now...
Nonsense, at least that in the UK it's particularly more or less than in EU or US/CAN.
There's PLENTY of UK users and dealers operating on these forums as well.
 
I'm trying to do this politely but... if you think a speaker cable goes to an INPUT on anything (ignoring speaker cable going to RCA...), are you really sure you should be doing this? Maybe a friend that knows a bit more about basic A/V that could come over for a Saturday to help and drink a few pints?

have definitely shipped.  This integrator already got one and reviewed it on Residential Tech Today
 
https://restechtoday.com/integrating-siri-voice-with-the-control4-halo-remote-control/

Which audio matrix do you have now? 
Could just be DSP settings.
Muj

It’s amazing how this site has become a online retail store for dealers…

The best thing for you is to go to a Control4 integrator near you, visit a showroom and see what you’d like your house to do or what you’d like to automate. Then work with them to achieve that. You can look here for a list of control4 dealers just look for one near you. https://www.control4.com/o/go-with-a-pro/

If you want to understand some of the cabling requirements check this out


If you can’t go to a show room this is a good starting point to see what could be possible with a Control4 system.


The sky is the limit, obviously budget and what you want will come into play as to what you’ll get done. Good luck


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Let us provide a bit of context.  Our Control4 System was originally installed by Magnolia (Best Buy) in 2015-16.  However, Magnolia stopped becoming an authorized service/technician provider and was unable to provide service and support.  We didn’t fully understand how painful it is when someone stops becoming an authorized service/support technician, but for that reason, we will not purchase anything from Magnolia in the future.  Beginning in 2021, things started to get wonky with our system likely due to a lack of software upgrades, etc.  We had ‘duct-taped’ some workarounds to keep the system functional.  After bearing these frustrations, they eventually accumulated to the point where we had to figure out a solution to go forward.
After reaching out to 4-5 authorized retailers with a simple internet search, Alex from Total Home Technologies reached back out.  As part of their evaluation and service, they required us to visit their showroom to discuss our needs, and presumably “wow” us with all of their capabilities.  After some back-and-forth, they scheduled a home visit to evaluate our system in-person.  About a week later, their proposal arrived…
Sticker shock may be the understatement of the year!  First, their proposal was so convoluted, it didn’t have any sub-totals or totals or any easy way to figure out the various costs of things in a logical manner.  This was an obvious red flag, but we thought we needed to understand it better.  Alex explained this is a common problem and that he would be happy to walk us through it.  We got on the phone with him a couple of times, and over the total course of about 1.5 hours, he finally concludes that the total cost of everything was going to be about $47,000!  He explained the NECESSARY hardware upgrades, licensing support, software upgrade costs, three-year subscription required for their support, etc.  All of this, Alex calmly explained, was required for them to be able to access the system remotely, monitor the performance, and provide real-time support.  We were crestfallen and reeling from this and told him we would think about it.  Not willing to accept this rationale and sales approach outright, we asked Alex if there were ways to reduce the bill to get the basic elements of the system working.  Alex ultimately stated there were things he could trim around the edges, but the core of the system needed to change and that was what would be required to upgrade.
We sat on this for a couple of months, working with our ‘duct-taped system/process’ already in place.  We could still use our system, it’s just we had work-arounds and it was cumbersome.  We decided to reach back out to a few other authorized retailers to gain insight and perspective on what options we may have.  We connected with Joe at Epic Systems with offices in NJ/NY.  They were responsive and service oriented immediately.  We explained our issues and asked if they could help.  We screen shot our controllers, our software version, and our hardware set-up.  They accessed our system remotely, diagnosed our issues, and offered a proposal, that included upgrading our controllers and software.  There was no back-and-forth hassle…no wasted hours and no wasted days.  They would bring in everything within a week, install it, and program everything accordingly.  They would also be able to provide remote support as well as onsite support.  Here’s the kicker…there all-in cost was $4,000!  This was literally a difference of over 90% what Total Home Technologies offered.
Don’t be a sucker!  Don’t give your business to Total Home Technologies.  Give your business to Epic Systems!  They are honest, straight-forward, and have the customer’s best interests in mind.

Here is my two cents from a end user that prewired for a three story townhome with 5 tv locations.
I ran tubes to each tv location for future proofing.  I also have an equipment rack in a central location. In each tube I eventually ran 3 cat 6, and a coax.  In addition to the master location I ran Fiber.  (This is to play the central located Xbox) I ran Cat6 (dual runs)  also to locations where I though I would have computer, i.e. 2 locations (4 total lines) in the office, 1 in each bedroom, 1 to the garage. (Remember the cat6 is cheep to run up front, nor so much afterwards 3 cat 6 for access points on each level for WIFI (3 total runs) 1 cat6 to the door bell (For chime) 1 cat 6 to the porch for a camera 1 cat 6 to over the garage door for a camera If you are even thinking about touch screens in the rooms prewire now I have security run to each of the windows and touch panels in the master and by the garage door (This cam with the house standard so I did not have much input) Here was my one MISTAKE, I have 23 automated blinds all run by batter.  I HIGHLY suggest you run a low voltage 12V line to EVERY window. I promise you will not regret it if you are considering automated blinds 1 have 9 speaker locations.  Main theater/Living area, dining, kitchen, garage, 3 bedrooms, porch, and master bath.  All pre wired back to the equipment rack. (The theater/living is all wired back to the equipment closet for in wall and ceiling speakers, as well as floor standing and 2 subs.  I eventually went with floor standing and subs with ceiling, but the in-wall is still there if I ever want to get ride of the floor standing) I think that was everything I pre ran.  For each room I did not go with a touch screen (wire is there for future) but went with a keypad.  I have 2 gang in most rooms, some have three.  I am slowly adding to my system but this is my plan for each room.
Every room has recessed lights which are being switched the Philips Hue, I already have Somfy blinds (with the Bond Pro for control) in each room, and Samsung TVs (Q60s and Q80s for IP control) with Roku's for app control, I plan to add Modern Forms Fans for IP control, and each room has or is prewired for ceiling speakers.
1st switch is a Dimmer (that is going to be programed as always on (For Hue Lights). Top button, turns light on warm, touch again cold light, touch again cycle through colors. Bottom will turn off.
2nd switch is a Keypad:
1 - Fan (Cycle speeds, press hold off, light to show speed  on/off) 2 - Shades (Cycle, preset open, full open, closed) 3 - TV (Cycle preset, i.e. spectrum, Netflix, YouTube, press hold off) 4 - Audio (In Ceiling Speakers, cycle through preset with color notification) 5 - room off 6 - arrows - volume A lot of what I am doing is still some work in progress, but this is from a end user that uses the system everyday. Please feel free to reach out if you have any questions.  Just remember prewire EVERYTHING you might possible want, the worst case is a wire stays behind the dry wall.  
Rocky

The best thing for you is to go to a Control4 integrator near you, visit a showroom and see what you’d like your house to do or what you’d like to automate. Then work with them to achieve that. You can look here for a list of control4 dealers just look for one near you. https://www.control4.com/o/go-with-a-pro/

If you want to understand some of the cabling requirements check this out


If you can’t go to a show room this is a good starting point to see what could be possible with a Control4 system.


The sky is the limit, obviously budget and what you want will come into play as to what you’ll get done. Good luck


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I love C4 but the reason I haven’t jumped into lighting that much is the keypads. Perhaps it’s just me or my taste but it seems C4’s keypads are still oldschool looking and don’t have the refinement that a lutron palladium keypad has.
I have a few dimmer pucks and switches around the house but I’d transition the whole house over in a heartbeat if they were to update their keypads to better looking ones.
again people always seem to go in arms over stuff like this but I’m not trying to bash C4 or anyone who has these keypads in their houses. I’m just stating what I’d like to see as an end user and hopefully C4 has something up their sleeve. Plus I’m also genuinely curious how one with a multi million dollar house with high end gear opts for the C4 keypads these days with the way they look?

These look great.  Definite upgrade. Wonder if colors are the same as existing button and faceplate options.
 
Updated blog post: https://www.control4.com/blog/615/introducing-a-lofty-new-look-for-smart-lighting
Video of Contemporary Lighting: https://www.control4.com/solutions/smart-lighting/
 
 

Is that a qualifier in determining if someone can ask for help in here? I'm not being facetious I am genuinely asking because I see these threads pop up quite a bit where people start questioning whether a user has legitimate access. If it is, then I think that something needs added to the site FAQ or something that says users who do not have legitimate access to Composer Pro are not allowed to ask questions about it.
OR (and this is what I would suggest) it is assumed that everyone who asks a Composer Pro related question (not access mind you, technical questions) has legitimate access. If someone feels the user may be lying and/or can't be helped because they don't understand basic concepts then they should refrain from helping.

You need to use the 'Relay Garage Door Controller (OS 2.9+)' driver.  It's in the Composer database, no need to purchase.  Does exactly what you want, allowing you to bind the Z2IO relays and open/close the garage door by touching the door icon.  No need for separate relay icons.  Also has some useful features like 'still open time' that you can program off.  This just makes it easier to set up push messaging/actions for when the door has remained open for a set time period.

sorry yes, autocorrect I suspect

For anyone who’s interested. The fix was simple after all. I changed my Apple TV’s from manual IP on the Apple TV to automatic in network settings. I did my reservations on my network controller (Ubiquiti). Thanks for all the help.


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I'm trying to see if there is a way to do a long select press. Can't see anything in programming. I'm trying to get context menu in kodi, thanks.

Hoping someone can help me, my dealer is stumped. My Apple TV 4 and 4K are having this weird problem where it’s as if a key on the remote is kept on being pressed. It’s keep flicking and the remote isn’t responsive. Only thing you can do is switch off but then it happens again once you start.
 
My system
C4 - EA3 on 3.1.1
Apple TV is on 13.3.1
The driver is on the latest version with control via IP.
 
Any ideas what could be going on? I have 2 Apple TV, one is a 4th gen and the other is 4K one and they are both doing the same thing. The problem was intermittent before but it’s unbearable now.
 
 
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Thanks for setting me on the right path. I was deleting the communications agent and then not refreshing the navigators. Anyways got it to work now and for future reference this is what I did:
1. Deleted the communication agent - refreshed navigator
2. Deleted the T3 from the project - refreshed navigator
3. Added the T3 via sddp (was doing manual before so this could’ve been the trick)
4. Added the communication agent
5. Refreshed the Navigators




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