cnicholson

Does this add anything for people using Apple devices and Shairbridge? Or does it basically bring that feature set to non-Apple sources?

I have one older (2017) LG OLED and went with IR controls. We used an unused Coax cable in the wall to connect back to controller and it works great. I don't think it can launch mini-apps, however. But not sure if you can with serial either. IDK.

If probably depends on the particular sensor/driver combo. I know that a lot of drivers have an "invert sensor" option so, LOL, there doesn't seem to be universal agreement. I think of True/On/Open as being synonyms and False/Off/Closed being synonyms. I imagine a magnetic reed sensor as being a "closed" circuit when door is closed and the magnet pulls the reed to the wire, completing (closing) the circuit. But this mnemonic might be 180 degrees wrong. In which case tick the invert sensor box! I have always assumed that a verified state is one that is driven by a physical sensor and not just toggled via command. So tracking a garage door based on the last command sent (open or closed) would not be a verified state. But tracking state based on physical position sensor would be a verified state.

I have same exact TV: 2022 LG G2 (in 83") and same exact issue with LG driver (can't switch HDMI inputs during initial startup). I'm curious if Annex4 drivers work better on this particular model. If you try, please post an update. Update: I have other 2022 LG TVs (but only one G2) and they seem to switch HDMI inputs (from source active on power off) after maybe a 5 second delay after power on (at first you can see the prior source on screen, then a ~5 second delay, then the input switching screen, then the correct new input). So maybe G2 specific issue?

Wouldn't that just be in the Announcements Agent?

Yes. This please. Driver consistently does note reconnect after reboot. HB Manager Driver reports licensing problem. But if I "Send Config" and "Sync Ports" from main driver action and then "Send Config" from any Siri driver, stuff works again after a minute or so. Not sure if steps 2 or 3 are required, but works for me. Ideally: more elegantly recover from reboot. But agree that programatic control over magic steps to get back on line would be OK with me, too.

A lot of these products are made by Tuya. Maybe try the Chowmain Tuya driver? Just a thought--- I have not tried this myself

Look for MAC address starting with 7C:1E:B3:F2

Does this information suggest an expected timeline for volume shipment to customers?

The best answer is "no." But, if you really really want to do this and don't like to take "no" for an answer, here's a way (which I DO NOT recommend unless you have other uses for the stuff required for the solution). Siri/Homekit (together with Apple Shortcuts, which is kind of a visual scripting solution but without coding) can control the Apple Music App on your Mac (somewhat). For example, it can play songs, albums and playlists. The DTI Homebridge driver allows C4 to talk to Siri/Homekit/Home App. You could have a button on the C4 side that starts the audio session from your Mac in the room(s) you want and then invokes the action on the Apple side of things to start the playlist. You'd need to set up Homebridge (free) on your Mac (or other computer or Raspberry Pi that is always on) and then get the (paid) DTI Homebridge driver (who's main purpose is to give you voice control over your C4 system using HomePods (or your phone). The basic idea is you set up a fake light that C4 controls, but Apple side sees as a real light. Then you trigger Apple actions based on state of the (fake) light. Anyway, just FYI.

FYI, my Neeo is flakey and has MAC starting with 2C:AB. I'm also using Ubiquiti for WiFi. Go figure. I'm going to ask dealer to try to RMA it and see if new one is any better.

Based on your diagram above on mirroring function, that would seem to be a good strategy since it says (when mirroring is enabled) "...by default, analog outputs will be mirrored on the coax side." I'm not using mirroring as I am trying to squeeze more zones through my matrix. Kudos to Pulse Eight for honesty in product naming. You seem to be able to get FULL features out of the 16 or 32 zones they claim but can get EVEN MORE with reduced feature set. But, to the OP: Pulse Eight seems to support DAC (Stereo PCM, no down-mixing ) and ADC for the advertised number of zones (perhaps with a bit of configuration to specify the correct path through matrix for Analog inputs being switched to Digital outputs).

I have the Pulse Eight ProAudio32. It does Digital to Analog conversion BUT NOT Analog to Digital conversion. So if you try to switch an analog input to a digital output, it won't work--- even though Control4 considers this a valid path. Different Pulse Eight models may have different limitations. See Screen grab from ProAudio32 driver documentation. Since most of my inputs are digital, this is not a major problem. For the few that are analog, I put cheap ($20-$30 IIRC) Amazon ADC (analog to digital converters) between source and matrix (using path setter driver) and it works great. Basically I try to make ALL of my inputs digital. Audiophiles may have a heart attack, but I can't hear any quality degradation. Most of my sources are TV backhaul, which are digital to begin with. I do worry about edge cases where the Core5 uses analog outputs (after running out of digital ones) to try to reach a digital output port, so I might put ADC converters on those paths, too. I'm not sure how "mirroring" works, but my Analog outputs are full so not really an option for me (lots an lots of zones).

I used to have a set-up similar to your current one. For new house, I decided against video matrix / distribution. I just put an Apple TV behind most TVs and do audio backhaul to audio matrix. Works great. For the very rare occasions where i want to send sync'ed common video feed to multiple TV's, I added a cheap ($33/endpoint) IP one-to-many system. It's 1080P60, not 4K, but does the job for me. So I guess threshold Q is: do you really need a video matrix at all?

If you *wanted* to make it complicated, you could get an audio encoder/streamer and connect it to matrix output as it's own room and join it to the room/source you wanted to listen to. Assuming you carry your phone with you (or close to you), you'd just use a phone app to join the stream and connect headphones to your phone. That way you'd be using WiFi (to your phone) and you'd be able to roam around whole house/property and still listen. Could be done for ~$10 for a USB audio-in gizmo (and some free stream broadcast software) if you already have a computer near your matrix. Also, since it would be a multicast stream, several people could listen simultaneously.

Sure. First you set up Homebridge and the MyQ plugin. This exposes MyQ stuff to Apple Homekit/Siri. "Hey Siri, Open Garage 2 Large Door," etc. Then you install the DTI Homebridge driver in C4. The main point of the C4 Driver is to "publish" C4 stuff to Homekit/Siri via Homebrdige. E.g., "Hey Siri, open the shades in here" (will open the shades that you have set up in the room where the HomePod Mini is plugged in). Very cool. But you can get some two-way stuff going by using virtual devices and virtual buttons. I use a virtual device for Siri to talk to C4 (to track state-- is door open or closed?) and a virtual switch/button for C4 to control Siri (open the door). On C4 side, you add a garage door driver and connect it up to a programmable contact driver. When C4 user clicks it, then it opens door if closed or closes it if open. The way it controls it is by "pressing" the virtual button. On the Homekit/Siri side, you watch for this button press and then control the door. For state, on the Homekit/Siri side, you watch for state changes on MyQ device (really a virtual device on Homebridge, which talks to MyQ via plugin and MyQ API) and turn on/off the virtual device accordingly. On C4 side, you watch the virtual "state" device and update the programmable contact settings accordingly. Works pretty well, and tracks state changes from doors operated from clickers and garage door wall buttons, etc. The key is that you don't track state on C4 side via watching C4 commands sent. You only track state by listening for Siri/Homekit to send you a state update. Hope that makes sense.

FYI, there are still some subscription-free ways to get programability over MyQ stuff. I use Homebridge (free) plus MyQ plugin (free) to get Apple Homekit / Home App / Siri control over MyQ devices. No subscriptions, no cost (assuming you have an always-on computer on your network to run Homebridge on). I also use the excellent DTI Homebridge Control4 Driver (not free, but good value, IMHO) to get Control4 access to MyQ devices (even though the main idea of the DTI driver is to get Siri control over C4 devices, you *can* use it the other way around with some fiddling).

I have a turntable in the rack in my Theater and wanted to be able to listen to it throughout the house. I plugged it into the Core5 audio-in. Core5 audio out goes into matrix which then goes into AVR (pre-processor). Honestly, I can't tell the difference between the direct analog signal path to AVR versus going through an ADC, through matrix, DAC, etc. YMMV. (As an aside, in case anyone is wondering why I didn't plug turntable into the matrix directly, it is because the Pulse Eight matrix I have can't switch analog inputs to digital outputs (even though, annoyingly, Control4 director thinks it can-- which causes glitches), and the matrix is only connected to AVRs with digital connections).

Exactly my question. I guess being able to view/control garage doors while far away from home might be interesting, but Homelink works already and the MyQ phone app is free, right?

Great. This is on my punchlist as the T&C is now installed. Regrettably, is was on the INSTALLER'S punchlist, but he didn't do it. What did you use to do the switching? I don't believe I have a home run to the controller, so I was planning on using a Shelly module. Or maybe two of them: one for fire on/off and one for lights on/off

Correct

Sorry to revive old thread, but I had same question and am using a different approach to "force tracking" back to Music/Volume and thought I would share in the searchable record. I found that sending a "release" signal to the Music Button (or any button) is enough to make the tracking switch to that button. Since you would not generally program off of "release" on a button that you are already programming off of Taps, I haven't found any negative or unintended consequences. I plan to use the same approach to other stuff. If music is playing, I switch tracking to music. If no music is playing, I switch tracking to lights. So if someone enters a room, turns on lights, opens blinds (in that order), and then 30 mins later uses up/down again, I think they expect it to control dim level of lights (so force tracking to that). If, on the other hand, they enter a room with music playing (whether or not they started it with music button) I think they expect Up/Down to control volume, so I force the tracking to that.

Right. They were supposed to put in a fibre run during pre-wire and early construction, but didn't. So I'm putting in a small switch halfway along the run as a "booster." Trying to get a 10G link going for future proofing. -Chris

Working on the network issues, for sure. It just got me thinking about what the DS2 behavior would be. Core network in house has been solid, but the DS2 is on a down-stream network that connects to main house a couple hundred feet away and has become flakey for some reason.

Does DS2 have an "offline" mode where it will accept a valid code and work its internal relays even without a live network connection to the controller? Or does it become "dead" without a connection? I plan to use a DS2 to work our (far away) car entrance gate and I'm wondering what happens when the network is down (not internet, but the ethernet link between DS2 and the network switch). Thanks.