Charlie Mackenzie

How is it possible that what seems to be a common problem does not have a common solution. All I am trying to do is have a receiver that powers a TV zone have the same audio timing as the rest of the control4 triad platform as this TV zone is in an open space with a bunch of other zones. So, in order to not here an echo there needs to be some correction. I think best answer is to put extra speakers in the ceiling that only work with the Triad platform and then just have the receiver as dedicated TV. therefore no delay and no part of the open concept living space without sound. Seems excessive, but it will solve it. Now, we just need to solve the subwoofer issue which is on the receiver but wanted for the audio zones as well. might just look for a sub with two line ins and run one from the matrix to the sub and the other from the AVR to the sub. 
again, my comment was around this is not a unique problem and based on responses to this, it clearly is an ongoing thing. just no clean answer to date. Lots of Band-Aids and trial and error. 
Everyone has been super helpful, really appreciate the feedback. I have tried a few of these suggestions (thank you to the community) but they don't seem to work for my application.

Just an attempt at diffused wit

Maybe Sony TVs should be placed on a C4 “Not Supported” list given these networking quirks?

Thanks - on the companies going under - I get it - it is unlikely - but lots do. It was more C4 seems to be a bit glitchy in some other aspects and I am nervous I could pull the plug some day. Lutron, in a worse case scenario ceases to exist, the dimmers still work as normal dimmers and one can turn them on with the buttons in each room. I realize C4 is the same, but I have more faith in a basic processor for lights lasting longer than C4 which would be needed for any keypads. It was more to just not have my entire house's basic functions on a single vendor. A friend up state pulled his entire C4 system out as it was too glitchy and the dealers (multiple) could not correct for what he felt were some basics. So, he wished he had done Lutron, but the C4 dimmers still work as a stand alone item.
I really appreciate all the comments. Based on my read of the comments, I will likely go with Lutron. 

Can't comment on Ra3 obviously but I have been very happy with my Lutron Ra2/Control4 mixed set-up. Lutron lighting control is bulletproof and very reliable. Integration between both systems is seamless (there are a few best practices to be aware such as the use of phantom buttons to avoid popcorn effect for ex) and you can easily mix and match keypads and other controlling devices depending on what you are looking for. 
With online (free and premium) training (depending on the version of the software, at least for Ra2), homeowners can program their system themselves and have full control. 
If I had to do it again, I would not hesitate! The quality and flexibility of Lutron for lighting control combined with Control4 broad capability is a perfect fit. 
I have nothing against Control4 lighting capability (except personal preference for Lutron dimmers design) and I can see both options being acceptable. One advantage though going Lutron is that you can have consistent dimmers look across the house even if you don't automate every single one on day one. You can buy "basic" maestro dimmers for $15 for areas that don't necessarily need to be controlled as often. They will look identical to your Ra2 ones. And you can pick any color you want! Big budget impact...
By the way, any company can go under... but I think the odds of either Lutron or Control4 doing so are slim. Lutron is pretty established and has a solid business in traditional lighting control. Control4 is now part of SnapOne which went public last summer and was owned by a top Private Equity firm that diversified and grew its business.
Don't hesitate to ask for help or experience sharing as you move forward. Enjoy!

It'll just cost you more.
But sounds like your mind is made up to use Lutron. Extra time in programing, hardare a little more with duplication of processors, but you can accomplish what you want, Lutron integration is excellent.
The grey area is keypads. If you want them to control your music system volume and what not, then Control4 keypads are more adept. If it's just a couple buttons for away to turn down heat etc, you could stay with Lutron for keypads.

I went with RA2 Select, and I'm glad I did for reasons that you highlighted.  I would probably go with RA3 now (drivers should be available soon).  I really don't like the look of the C4 switches, but that has improved (in my opinion) with the new contemporary line.  The RA3 dimmer bars look super cool, though.
I supplement Lutron with C4 keypads in several locations.  They activate lighting scenes on Lutron loads, give me "Away" buttons, provide media control, operate shades, etc.  If you do choose Lutron, I would highly recommend doing the same.
C4 switches do act as Zigbee extenders (probably the wrong term) and make your mesh stronger which you will lose if you go with Lutron.  But, this has not been a problem for me because I have C4 keypads in a few select locations.  You also don't get the programmable LEDs on the C4 switches or the double/triple tap programming that you would get if you had C4.
Overall, I'm very happy with Lutron, and it's been rock solid - both functionality-wise and in it's integration with C4.  With that being said, I do believe C4 lighting is one of their core strengths and I'm not sure you would not be disappointed either way.

Sounds like your camera driver may have a bug (given that you have had the issue for 3 years plus).

I have it constantly crash on my iPhone and iPad Pro. Usually, about 30-45 seconds after viewing the camera feeds. Running the latest software on all platforms.

An article in the Verge today:
https://www.theverge.com/22787729/matter-smart-home-standard-apple-amazon-google

We have tried going "direct" on the AVR and other workarounds. No dice. The AVRs are only used in rooms where there are larger TV's (like a large family room) that is next to a kitchen. The AVRs are needed for surround sound. 
Seems to be such a basic problem and yet there does not seem to be a solution two separate dealers can come up with. How is this possible?

Hi there, I am trying to install a TV zone where sound is powered by an Sony receiver and other bar zones within an open concept space beside it are powered by the C4/Triad system. All components in the rack, and I have a echo effect as they are not synced clearly. I assume there is processing happening in the receiver that is causing this but assume this is a common issue but could not find much on it. Can anyone clarify if this is common or has anyone come up with a solution?
Second to that, I wanted to have the subwoofer from the TV/Receiver also be used when the zone next door is on without the receiver zone being on. Is this possible? Alternatively we could power the sub from the TRIAD amps and have that come on the same time as the TV/Receiver but wasn't sure if there was processing that would be missing going this way?
I welcome any advice,
Charlie
NYC

Hi there, I am trying to install a TV zone where sound is powered by an Sony receiver and other bar zones within an open concept space beside it are powered by the C4/Triad system. All components in the rack, and I have a echo effect as they are not synced clearly. I assume there is processing happening in the receiver that is causing this but assume this is a common issue but could not find much on it. Can anyone clarify if this is common or has anyone come up with a solution?
Second to that, I wanted to have the subwoofer from the TV/Receiver also be used when the zone next door is on without the receiver zone being on. Is this possible? Alternatively we could power the sub from the TRIAD amps and have that come on the same time as the TV/Receiver but wasn't sure if there was processing that would be missing going this way?
I welcome any advice,
Charlie
NYC

Essentials line limitations-
Can't order etched buttons 
No backlighting 
Limited color choices 
No top and bottom LEDs
Dont match the look/feel of keypads 
Not available in the new contemporary style 
No Adaptive Phase Dimmer option
 

Lighting is the thing that works best!  If you’re already happy, go for it. 

Control4 wireless lighting is rock solid. No issues mixing and matching essentials and regular line... I've done it several times. 

Agree. But I would be planning for 2 meshes w that # of devices

When your dealer sets up the network for all the lights, you're only supposed to have approximately 70 devices on a single mesh. Since you have multiple controllers, you can run multiple meshes. I would try to split them as much as possible between the two meshes for best performance

Question 1- dell and Cisco aren't open source...they make good network gear. But Cisco is far from open source
 
Question 2 - ca1 does nothing with video. You can use audio return baluns from the tv 
 
 

Battery life on the Lutrons have been over a year in a second home for me but it all depends on use.   I'm guessing with daily use you are looking at 9 months or so...   Very easy to change also on the Lutrons (I have the Serenas).
On networking,  I think it all depends on how comfortable you are with it and your needs.   If you are a networking capable person and want a step up and dont require cloud access or nice gui's (that can be more than just gimmicks), then Mikrotik / Ruckus are great options.   If you want a prosumer option with a lot of user features,  Unifi is great.   I would not be investing in either of the brands you mentioned but dont have direct experience with them so leave for others and forum readings on those
 

#1 Nothing stops you from using Cisco or other 3rd party gear. Note that Araknis and Pakedge aren't locked to C4 dealers either.
Araknis/Pakedge DOES get full support through the Control4/SnapOne channels, and that, more than any 'margin' is one of the main reasons many C4 dealers like selling them. If nothing else C4 dealer support is one of the best ones around for RMA, turnover time etc etc.
#2 Uhm. Well you want to have everything in the racck, but you don't want to pay for distribution. That sort of contradicts itself really. Sure you can do single sources to the TV with HDMIs or baluns, but at that point, assunming you have a good number of TVs, you're better off getting an HDMI switch. There's nothing AGAINST local sources and an audio balun back to the amplifiers either though. But you can't have both - everything central, and not have a cost associated with it.
As mentioned, the CA1 (or ANY controller) aren't going to help you here, that's just got nothing to do with it.
#3 Battery life isn't bad, but consider height (how easy to replace). As for best method, with any blind, is hard to judge without knowing the house. Numerous options though.
#4 Would influence the choice of amps. There's several option available with a subwoofer out. Sharing it across two rooms is posible with some extra gear without too much trouble, but I'd jsut plan for a nice in-celing or in-wall sub in both rooms vs using a powered sub....
 
#5 Like you say, all but impossible to judge without knowing the plans, both fot he house and the intended setup.
Genreal terms, one AP per floor is usally enough, you'll want at least two CAT6 at each TV location - maybe still coax depending on plan. General I'd advise two CAT6, 2 CAT5 or just 4 CAT6. Around here coax really is at the point of redundant, but I'm old fashioned an like having one in the wall personally. 4CAT plus a coax, and you can go eny way you want. Lcal source, distributed or hybrid.

#1 - Your dealer most likely wants to sell you Araknis, because that is where the best margin for him is (he makes the most money).  It's also what he's likely the most familiar with, and the most comfortable supporting. 
#4 - Your subwoofer's amp would be connected to a dedicated output on your audio matrix.  You can then "'pair" the subwoofer zone with an actual room's zone in the Triad matrix programming.

Seems to me that a dealer would be the right path in this case, as if it's defective, they could do an RMA or other repair process.
RyanE

The room runs at a Temperature of no higher than 26 degrees (78F). The case also has a thermal probe as there is some other advanced equipment in there and it is currently reading 30 degrees (86F).