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I'm assuming you're talking about inside the house? You could disable the chime on the touchscreen then play an announcement.

Hey. Do you have any ideas to change the sound of doorstations (ding-dong)?

RMA. Shouldn’t do that. We had big problems and rma’d most.

I did something similar in my kitchen and my MBR ensuite where I have a secondary TV fed by a splitter. I just bought a $25 splitter on Amazon. If it doesn't work you can always return it.

On the Halo it actually still thinks/displays there is a session, but the buttons do nothing until I go select the source again. Then the buttons work again. This is super annoying. It just happened again after watching as source for under 2 hours.

Thanks. I am on 3.4.1.705920-res. So, does that mean I'm in the "it's something else" category, or is it worth upgrading to 3.4.2?

There was a second fix on OS 3.4.1.705920-res .. I'd just upgrade to 3.4.2, and it's definitely fixed.. If you're having issues after a week, its something else.

We have 2 8" T4 touch screens. Last year, we experienced the known "jitter" issue on them, and at that time, C4 RMA'd both of them. The jitter came back earlier this year, but my dealer told me to wait for a software fix. My understanding is that 3.4.1 was supposed to fix this issue. After we updated to 3.4.1, the jitter did seem to resolve for a while, but it has come back intermittently on one of our touch screens -- about every other day we get it for a few hours. Is anyone else experiencing this on 3.4.1? Is this still a known problem? Thanks a lot.

Sounds like wired is the best option (given the reliability of wireless), any specific splitter to use from one tv to the next?

Wireless HDMI is just super hit and miss. Some times that cheap thing (as in $500) works, sometimes it doesn't. And that's a best case scenario, not a range of overall possibilities. (mull on that one ) CAN you do it reliable: sure. We do it for boardrooms all the time where wiring is inconvenient for the user (ie locks them to a location). Expect to pay $1500 and up. And to still occasionally reconnect it (button click usually, but still) I'd just do as @RAV above: run the wire through or overtop the cabinets, and channel the drywall to fit the cable in, quick patch and paint.

Looking to confirm abilities of Yales Assure 2 locks in Control4. if control4 Yale zigbee card added, local communication, user creation in Control4 UI and programming off of user code. (Must setup lock in Yale app) if WiFi, cloud communication, Yale app manage codes, but control4 can still program off user code. correct?

Do it reliable. Go along the top of the existing cabinets then cut a channel across over the doorway, patch and paint.

Wiring would be tough, a lot of dry wall damage, that is why I was thinking wireless splitter options.

Can you get a wire from one TV to the next? Z2IO can take care of control if needed, and as they're next to each other i may not be an issue to simply use an HDMI splitter'

Although in hindsight I am very happy I never invested in Orro devices, they are really cool. Are there any similar devices on the market?

So, first world problem, I have a TV in my kitchen and want to add another TV about 15 feet away. So, in the pic, over the refrigerator. I can easily get power to the location, but ethernet/hdmi to the TV from the basement is a problem. I have been searching for options and there are hdmi wireless options. Any thoughts/options?

I’ve had a few weird things on OS3.4.2. One of which related to sessions: 1. I have had advanced lighting scenes that don’t fire from programming on more than one occasion (already) - never had this problem previously. 2. I had a digital session where a room is supposed to join via programming fail. I discovered code that I must have written years ago to catch such a situation and got a message (that I programmed years ago and have never seen) warning me of this failure. I am hoping this is a once off but we will see!

With the Orro servers now shut down and no way to get an offline key, anyway you can still control Orro devices?

And now at 3:40 am I just had a random zone turn on playing Pandora while no one was awake. Which has never happened to me before.

The Control4 relay output does not provide voltage. You need to feed in 12v into the COM of the relay to supply it voltage. You can get 12v from the Contact on the controller. So 12v from contact to common of relay. GND of contact to the GND pin you need to wire and the NO (or NC whichever way you want to program it) output from the relay connects to the 12v pin.

Since this latest update I’ve been having a problem with sessions disappearing. Example. I’ll be watching a cable box on my tv. After being on for a couple of hours I’ll open the phone app and the room will show no active sessions. So I have to select cable box again to then be able to control anything. Not unique to the phone app, also happening on my Halo remote. Haven’t messed around with it enough to know it occurs after 30 min or and hour yet. Also have noticed recently I have been seeing a similar problem listening to Pandora. After playing for awhile all of a sudden the listening session will just disappear like I ended it. Has anyone else seen anything like this before?

The Negative of the 12V supply to COM; the Positive of the 12V supply twisted to the Positive of the 3.5mm mono jack; the negative of the jack to NO or NC, neither work. This is exactly how I wired all the other amp triggers in the system, always NC.

Thank You!

Use the taps vs the light turning. This is native control4 capabilities

Any zigbee modules which can control 2 or more lights? With neutral. Got sonoff zbmini but i think its not possible