ILoveC4

I use this for Subwoofer amps where I’m not super worried about it taking an extra second or two to turn on. The 12V trigger is slightly more work, but is better. 

I have to imagine that if your company knew you were owning and running a competing business, they'd probably fire you. I'd wager it's against your employment agreement.
Decide whether you want to be an employee at your company or start your own. Nearly impossible to do both effectively.

It isn’t uncommon at all to have that. Just use the travelers to jump either the load or the hot from box to box. 

Neither Control4 nor Lutron recommend putting gangs of dimmers in hidden locations such as closets.
If you want panelized lighting (and it's benefits of less wall clutter, etc.), do panelized lighting.
Don't try and use wireless dimmers as panelized lighting.
RyanE

You really should use the IP driver. That said, congrats on figuring out how to make an IR driver. 
 
Hopefully the receiver doesn’t catch direct sunlight or light from a fluorescent bulb, or the IR bud fall off, or the power get out of sync with rapid fire on/off/on commands. IR is a gigantic pain in the ass. I don’t have a single IR driver in my system and plan to keep it that way. 

I know you were. Sorry if it didn’t come across that way. 

You really should use the IP driver. That said, congrats on figuring out how to make an IR driver. 
 
Hopefully the receiver doesn’t catch direct sunlight or light from a fluorescent bulb, or the IR bud fall off, or the power get out of sync with rapid fire on/off/on commands. IR is a gigantic pain in the ass. I don’t have a single IR driver in my system and plan to keep it that way. 

Oh yeah, and I feel your pain. I have 2 Pioneer Elites left...down from 4. The first 2 were the hardest. The time for these last 2 is drawing near. 

I love having the same display on a bunch of TV’s, and being able to move throughout the house and take the show with me. Video distribution rocks. 

Not only is he an employee, but it sounds like he had a hand in it. Of course he’s proud of it. On top of that, I’ve met with him personally a few times and he’s one hell of a nice guy. People get so bold and outspoken on the internet 

Don’t hook up the traveler until you put C4 products in the other locations and know how they’re wired. Just wire it up as if it were single pole for now, and then when your electrician gets there have him/her (never seen a female electrician but must be PC these days) wire up the “auxiliary” locations. 
 
My preference is to use keypads in the other locations, but that’s because I want LED feedback, different button options and programming capability. 

This is where macros can save you a ton of time. If you’re calling a macro from a bunch of places, you can go add the conditional to the macro. 

I went about 50 feet, but the brightness faded significantly. It wasn’t super noticeable until the 2 ends came closer together. I went the route of adding a second power run. I have 2 full strips fed by one, then 1.5 strips fed by another. There’s a bit of voltage drop in the 2 full strips but it’s not bad. 

I went about 50 feet, but the brightness faded significantly. It wasn’t super noticeable until the 2 ends came closer together. I went the route of adding a second power run. I have 2 full strips fed by one, then 1.5 strips fed by another. There’s a bit of voltage drop in the 2 full strips but it’s not bad. 

I went about 50 feet, but the brightness faded significantly. It wasn’t super noticeable until the 2 ends came closer together. I went the route of adding a second power run. I have 2 full strips fed by one, then 1.5 strips fed by another. There’s a bit of voltage drop in the 2 full strips but it’s not bad. 

This is where macros can save you a ton of time. If you’re calling a macro from a bunch of places, you can go add the conditional to the macro. 

No. Your Missing nothing

Remember with timers, you want to RESET the timer, not start the timer. That resets it to the default and starts it. If you just start it, it will start with whatever random time is remaining on the timer. 

Remember with timers, you want to RESET the timer, not start the timer. That resets it to the default and starts it. If you just start it, it will start with whatever random time is remaining on the timer. 

Not too much trouble at all. 
 
LED lights
DMX Dimmers
Power Supply
Wire
DMX Controller
Control4 Driver
It’s a best practice to use a dimmer for each strand of lights. You can get two, but you’ll start to get voltage drop towards the end of the strip. 
 
They have DMX dimmers that have multiple outputs/channels too. This is my only experience with it, but it turned out awesome! We also have lights that go around the backside of the screen that light up the walls around it, and some lights under the bar at the back of the theater. It’s a nice touch. 
 
It took me way more time than I think it should have to educate myself on DMX. I’m far from an expert on it, but happy to help however I can. 

You’ll want to be informed about your IP Ranges, Gateway, etc... as well as how all your devices are configured. Are they just DHCP? Probably not. Are they static or do they have DHCP reservations? Probably best to consult the dealer. 

Honestly we need to know what sources your distributing.
It is a hard sell to tell a customer to upgrade their component video matrix is going to cost thousands. Larger 8x8 systems can cost $8000+ up in Canada.
These days with smaller cable boxes like Shaw BlueSky we can tuck them behind each TV without issue.
We simply rip the component video matrix out. Install cable boxes behind each TV. Maybe install a Roku or Apple TV for areas they want more streaming options. But BlueSky does have netflix and youtube built in so its pretty much all there.
If you have like 10+ TVs and your a die hard Blu-Ray guy then I guess sticking with a video matrix is still going to be your best bet. But if all you have is like 4-6 TVs just ditch it and set things up locally.
 
Sticking with the component system doesn't make sense at all. Don't buy adapters, don't rig things up. Its going to get messy. Either replace it or remove it. 
My .02

Yeah, that’s a crazy lighting circuit - way too much on one switch. 

We’ve never used mobile to mobile. Mobile to T3, T3 to Mobile, T3 to T3, DS2 to T3 and DS2 to Mobile get used all the time. When it rings on my phone I click the notification and I’m in. If I want to talk I hit the button and talk. I don’t think the flow is bad. 

I had this situation with a home builder in the housing boom of 2006. I wanted to run low voltage wire, he said NO! He wouldn’t let me pay him to do it either. I cleared my evenings and paid close attention. When HVAC, plumbing and electrical were done, I pulled an all nighter and ran all the low voltage wire I wanted. The builder was bugged, but there was nothing he could do about it. That, and the reality was he didn’t want me doing it because he didn’t want me messing up his timeline or his trades. I had accomplished it without doing that so he didn’t care. 
 
Buy a few boxes of speaker wire, some CAT6, assemble a few basic tools and get a friend or 2. Watch for the opportune moment and just get it done. He won’t pull it out. He can’t prove it was you. He won’t care.