RAV

Curious, how’s the lip sync?

When programming an announcement if relays are activated: deactivate relay, play announcement, reactivate relay (in music room) if relays are not activated: play announcement (in music room) This is the messy part, which is why I suggested the LOC, less chance of oops and more adjustable levels and crossover. You've got the volume of the music zone at 100% to pass through the sub level from the receiver. You'll have to adjust the volume down before the announcement and reset it after, and if it misses or delay or something you could end up very loud and or damage the speakers. And your announcement is going to go through the sub too You'll also have to futz a bit with the pass through volume and receiver sub output levels to have them balanced to music level subs And you'll have one crossover point for the sub for both music and surround, depends on the gear and room. Yes in theory though

2.53 was max for most of the original Ethernet models. Since then: HC200 and HC300 as secondary controllers max 2.91 HC250 max 2.10.6 HC800 with Nav, max 2.10.6, otherwise without Nav max 3.30 Infinity 7 touchscreens, max 2.10.6 (will stop firmware updates at 2.91) Speaker Point max 2.91

Two Actual Rooms: Theater and Family Music Fake Room: TheSubs Default: Family Music Use a Line Out Converter on the Family Music speakers at the matrix output and then run that back into the matrix as an input. That way the Theater Receiver handles sub volume for surround, and the Family Music zone output handles sub volume for music. https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/lc2i-pro/ Family turns on - set TheSubs to input 7, open relay Theater turns on - set TheSubs to input 8, close relay Announcement - open relay, play announcement, delay, if theater is on close relay

And I suppose you want the subs to play with the music room too? Can that amp's internal setup (not using Control4 at all) have a zone track another zone's volume and source using the group feature that's shown in the manual?

Two Rooms - Theater and Family Music Three 4PDT relays. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QXYPJH7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In-app Notification Management Deep Linking - tapping a notification sends you to that device in the app User Management and Account Details in app rather than just in portal Surveillance Experience Updates - live scrolling thumbnails x20 Luma Camera Audio Support in App Coming Q4 - New Lighting Picker, Easier Scene Editing, Easier Wallpaper, Settings Redesign (makes it sound like App update rather than hardware OS) Coming Soon - TuneIn Driver Update - premium Tune In Support Firmware for T4 to address Image Jitter Must be on 3.31 or better ~65 Bug Fixes Terminal Access removed

That's why they made the One. Everyone just sees them as Voice. They are focusing on being the butler for Lutron, Sonos, Nest, Roku, Xfinity etc. Bringing them together in one app and allowing inter-system commands.

You just connect control4 room end points to the drivers different listed zone outputs. Software handles all the work.

2 Levels of licensing. Without Voice, and With Voice through the App and Remote. (It's less, but I don't have all the details to post how much)

$850 MSRP US with a SR260 puts it near to a ProControl ($650) or URC (~$600) and gets the end user a whole lot more; growth ability, music streaming, on screen, remote support, included app, etc.

Yes, but it's less of a processor, so keep that in mind. Comparison to Core 1 2 core CPU vs 4 3 IO Ports (1 Serial IR combo and 2 IR) vs 2 combo and 2 IR No Digital Audio Output No External Antenna No LAN switch No POE

SONY ES have stable HDMI Zone 2, starting at $1700 in the current line up though, STRAZ3000es and higher. The 1000es level does not have zone 2 this year, if you can locate an older 1100es that would be the price deal.

https://www.frightprops.com/video-visual-effects/digital-video-players/sprite-seamless-looping-hd-triggerable-video-player.html

Just the one file? Get a cheap flash media player on amazon, plug into TV HDMI port directly. Leave it playing as a loop, switch TV input as needed.

You need a new plumber.

As Alan mentioned, if the system is not receiving from the app the "stop ramping up command" due to a network issue, then modding the driver isn't going to solve anything. Your experience where volume down was sent, and then it did a volume up, suggest a delay or it was still processing the original volume up command. When the HC800 existed, were the IR plugged into it, or still the IO extender? Might try moving it to the Core5 directly, one less hop. The only other thing to suggest (other than network) is to add a 1 sec or 1.5 sec timer to programming. When volume up start received, start timer, timer expires send volume up stop. Max volume up ramp would be limited to timer length.

Sounds like the keypad driver is the issue as it's only that part that stops functioning. Have you tried deleting and replacing it manually? I have the pro hub and picos at home manually setup before leap and no issues. (caseta pro hub driver and pico drivers).

What is the IR bug attached to processor wise? You said pool house, so I'm assuming there's a zir or small control4 processor there, or did they extend IR all the way from the house main processor?

Confirming.... When the picos stop communicating, Control4 can still control other Lutron stuff through the common Lutron processor? Which processor? Reserved/Static IP?

Voice will be the UI when the pocket screen is no longer an object of our affection. Over-simplifying people into "glued to screen", and it's a "communicator". The glued to screen who live through their phone on social media, music, streaming, email, text, and all their apps, will not look beyond it for other means of world interaction. Why do I want anything else? Everything I need is right here, in my hand, every waking moment. This is my world. On the other hand, people who aren't so, are more living in the moment and voice becomes a 'less techy' way to interact with their environment. No touchscreen (wall phone), not keypad (button phone), not remote (wireless button phone). They also tend to be less control detailed. I want classic rock, set the lighting to chill. Not the extra thoughts of which artist or song, or what do I need to achieve chill, let me spend 10 minutes getting that just right, opps lost that mood moment. And with AI being drawn into voice now, it's a simpler place to get the answers to questions; no typing, searching, clicking, opening closing, etc. Again, less screen time. I spend all day at work staring at a screen, typing, mousing. Addressing time2jet's comment regarding the automated house, reacting based on time, location etc. You're right. But who's going to program that? That's a lot of personal information for a programmer to learn from a client who took 10 minutes choosing white or black speakers, and the ideal client isn't interested in spending his own hours to figure it out. And their spouse is different from them, so double that, and they may have little interest, I just want to flip a switch. For the few though, their is added satisfaction is defining that perfect moment. So ultimately it will come with a learning AI. I always laugh when Piccard has to ask for Earl Gray Tea Hot. Really? He can self destruct the ship with a voice command, but has to go all Alexa for a drink. "Tea" that's all, fix the programming. Now granted maybe other times he wants it different, but not that we see, should have a default. (Or perhaps Star Trek is incorporating the Dune doctrine of non thinking machines, nerd but not super nerd). Josh AI isn't there yet, but it's the closest. Watch your client, glued to their phone, it's a hard sell.

The Shelly is a small puck type unit that is intended to go inside the switch box with a switch in front. For the Fan switch and the Puck to live inside the box, the box would need to be oversized, the fan controllers not small on it's own. You may also be able to install the Shelly at the fixture where there may be more room, and have the fan controller at the wall, depends on wiring and ability. Shelly comes as a switch (Shelly 1 plus) or a dimmer (Shelly Dimmer 2) The Chowmainsoft is a great Control4 driver to integrate them. The other option is to cut the wall. Install the Fan switch above the light switch, and use 2 Control4 devices. Unless the wall just won't allow that, it's what I would do.

Fan speed controller and a Shelly 1.

It's the TV's NIC card. Rare, but not unheard of. Move to WiFi is recommended if it occurs. Could be an update, age, no one's really certain why some and not others have experienced it. (Not the driver, not Control4, something in the NIC hardware)

Check the remote is set for the right room, or even near it's proper mesh if there's more than one processor.