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Amr

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Everything posted by Amr

  1. Try sending these to Bond and see if they can support this, try Bond forums.
  2. I use Somfy with Bond and the “My” button is indeed the Stop button
  3. Yea that’s it, I didn’t get this part of 2xpsu, turned out to be one PSU per Window, makes sense, for the driver u have 2 options Chowmain and Domaudeo, I have both, same prices
  4. Do u have different names between the directly attached ATV and the shared one? HB requires unique names so if u name Both Apple TV, it won’t work!
  5. You said 2 motors, so u have a 2nd PSU doing the same thing, right? In this this case this is a fully opened/Fully Closed setup, what are the motors make? This will give a picture of what can be done, the easiest part is to install a Shelly 2.5 behind one of the 2 switches to drive both of them, u will be able to control them from C4, as well as manually from the switches! Problem with the Shelly it need a 30-50vdc input to operate with, I can’t think of anything in the market operates with 24vdc.
  6. Actually the ancient method of scanning and saving your meta data on controller is not advisable any more, not for videos nor music use DLNA driver or the likes of Plex, Roon, BlueSound, Ovation and Townky!
  7. https://technet.genesis-technologies.ch/control4-zigbee-the-definitive-guide/
  8. Get a Coax to RCA converter for your Core Controller.
  9. Which brings us to the same argument, WiFi is headache to optimize and maintain and with the current technology it just can’t be pushed or optimized further maybe better ones will emerge!
  10. When u r done with your Controller upgrade I think you should take a look @ TriadOne, u can source a used one less than $350 and it will provide u with a seamless zone addition to your project.
  11. Yes, was a hassle and still, actually the best thing to do is to go the TriadOne Route, much cleaner and provide the best ever hassle-free C4 experience!
  12. Yeah, an EA is definitely a push forward
  13. The cost of automating this will probably equal the price of a used AVR that u can source for this job, but check these: https://flow.audio/ Around $180 on Amazon, free DriverCentral C4 driver!
  14. I use to have with Flic 1 and was working fine without any issue, but stopped using it 2 yrs ago as it becomes slow and u have to pay to accelerate things which I didn’t like! I had the driver removed from my project!
  15. Case had been opened for requesting 2 new license keys after migrating to new controller last Xmas!
  16. If u reset the remote it need to be re added to your project again, have your dealer connect it again.
  17. A UPS as well should protect you from any rise in voltage and some have surge protection as well, it’s very recommended to use it with your main controller!
  18. I bough an HC800-BL-1 with rack ears and PS @ $50, 9 months ago
  19. That’s a $30 of Amazon or eBay, I didn’t change my power supply but I think it was 19 VDC PS like the ones used to power old laptops
  20. You need to know who supplies these licenses and ask them to move you to the new MAC of the new Controller, they might need the old MAC or not depending on them, usually they also request the email the license registered to. Some providers even have license management drivers that automatically work with the new controllers. If you have ComposeHE u can obtain these info and even register the new keys!
  21. What is your Controller and WiFi equipment?
  22. Can every one please reporting good or bad battery life of Halo to include all data on the footer, some thing like this just to get a grasp of what is the gear driving the behavior —————————— Controller: EA5 WiFi Network: UniFi UAP-AC-LR WiFi Parameters: xxx
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