Matt Lowe

sounds like your installer did not make appropriate room in the electrical boxes. Alot of electricians like to just shove everything in a box and use an impact to screw the switch down pushing everything to its limits. When this happens the frame of the switch can be distorted and not work correctly. Also if the plates are not aligned in a multi gang box the wall plate pressing against the switch will cause the same issue. Using the screwless faceplates from c4 can greatly improve placement accuracy if they are not skilled enough to fit standard plates correctly. If they are installed correctly I have only seen very consistent action from the switches. I will say the essential line has a much better two button rocker actions and i hope that its tech can be applied to the rest of the decora line some day.

sounds like something might be turning the fireplace on or off which is something to look into on its own. easy fix is to set a timer for like 5 mins. if timer is running -- send notifcations start timer. then it should only send once the timer is expired.

timers have hardly any effect on controller resources. Long programming delays can cause all kinds of weird things. so its best to use them in instants where they won't be issued multiple times.

We do this for our showroom. Using Variables, the scheduler, and timers that repeat themselves when they expire if the conditions are met. If you needed exact times you could create scheduled events for each time you would need and set the schedule accordingly.

have you checked out the irusb from videostorm?

We also use the 360 access motion sensors for our show room to automate for guests visiting our demo rooms. they are instant activations after the sleep time. You can set the sleep time in the driver as little as 1 miniute maybe less. Although I can't think of many use cases that you would need motion detection less than each miniute.

I would contact tech support to check into it further to make sure there is not something on the software side causing the hold up. what programming do you have attached to the keypad?

lets be fair they are 3.3.1 bricks lol. anything below 3.3.1 they are still awesome controllers. My aunt will be getting a nice upgrade hopefully.

check your systems page in the settings and be sure you are not logged into the same system twice or three times. secondly can you screen shot the notfications programming and post it here.

sure can its avalaible in composer.

HC250 are still good up until 2.10.6 so they can be used in plenty of functioning systems. I would not use it as a main controller for a largeish project. If you have no need to update or want a simple 1 room solution they work just fine.

I might recommend that the security company install a second panel control each with the HSIM. I am betting there is some panel limitation for only being able to control 1 partition. It could be driver related as well, which is equally unlikely to be updated. I have limited experience with this panel, so I could be very incorrect here.

can also look into do the the IRUSB from @videostorm. It worked really well for me on my FireTV before I got the 2017 Shield TV.

If its the watch button itself turning the devices off there could be some programming when the watch button is pressed. You can also change the function of the watch button on the remote driver. Typically it just cycles the sources but it could be that off is the next one in the cycle. Its been awhile since i have used that function or an sr150 so i don't remember how the priority works on it. you could also have some

Control4 Controllers also have very high analog outputs and it will typical cause audio matrices to clip the audio and you can get really poor quality audio. I typically lower them to a point where I would want the maximum volume for the speakers.

Just need to educate the customer. It should bring the volume back down to the maximum after a couple of seconds. We have volume limits in our store of 70% so if you set it to 80% after a couple of seconds the volume will go back to 70%. this is will triad matrix and amp. I am not aware of any devices that will do this in the driver. Just need to set the expectation. You can also submit a change request to control4.

if it is a small current and voltage the controller have built in relays you can use. 3 series has 1 5 series has 4 and the io extender has 8. can also use a z2io with 2 if you need it wirelessly.

you also want to be careful about using any battery based tablet in this case. They are not designed to plugged in all of the time and can be a fire hazard or damage the battery. I believe they are getting better about being ready all the time, but the touch screens are always active and connected the to project so you will have less times waiting for the project to connect.

I would make sure you have an ethernet and can hardwire it to the network. wireless is just going to add even more hiccups to the samsung ip driver. If there is not network I would get a z2io or Ca1 for serial control if you dont want to see and ir cable. i would confirm it has serial control though before getting the CA1. Likely will also be cost prohibitive from the sounds of it as well.

Depends on how you want to wire in the transformer. You could just wire a dumb switch or relay to the shelly and that can be used to turn off the lights. you could also program any control4 switch to turn them on or off. The dimmer module would only be to turn off power to the transformer which would be overkill and ideally you would not want to do that as the transformer is powering the shelly and since its wifi will take a moment to boot and connect before it will start responding to commands.

Just making sure you have a good HDMI and fix all of your settings don't use auto crap.

a marco will work too but you just need a conditional checking that each door is closed. with OS 3. you can also combine these all into one conditional as well. then if any of the doors are open restart the time and send a notfications. this is all done on the expiration of the timer.

Correct to an extent you should have very little signal loss. As for swapping the receivers, they all likely have individual settings so something is diffirent and causing the image difference. Until we know a lot more and it would be best to have someone dig through the settings that is familiar with the system to be able to tell exactly what is going on here.

need to contact tech support and they will review your options.

Check out Chowmain drivers. They may have something that is compatible. They have a lot of HVAC drivers.