sonic30101

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z3PJP9N/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glc_fabc_3W2W1P0T01H49HJKEPGF

I don't think the bond bridge will be able to control it via bluetooth. The IOX is probably the only way to do it since that firepit doesn't have a 0-10v input or anything other than its own native control at the moment.

A dealer will have to run image update tool to roll them back

What is the construction in the walls and type of insulation ? Can you cut a 2 gang retro ring in the wall at the floor and ceiling and use a flex bit. Or 2 access panels and paddle bits so it is concealed in the wall.

C4 matrices are not my favorite either. Especially the receivers failing. I check out Just Add Power or Avpro for video distribution

What is the model, are the hdbaset extenders or an extender that uses 2 cat6 cause those are notorious for being unreliable

Haven't seen that. I don't think image update tool works for those. Where did it come from? If you just purchased you might want to return it

Do you have a video matrix or are you using cat6 extenders?

Josh turns the tv on through control4 when authenticated it imports the project so it knows all your watch devices and can selects the Roku and the c4 interface shows the roku as the active source just like you selected it from a remote or the app so everything stays in sync. You also link Josh's search functions to the c4 roku device so the advanced features of deep searching are seen as 1 action to the end user Typically we design to have audio play through the speakers from a cabling standpoint for the prewire. It is rare that our customer's request the tv audio come from the tv and music only through the speakers but at the end of the day it is user preference. My prewire rule is for the speaker wire you run it from the rack to the tv and speakers for flexibility. Depending on the path you go rack to tv then ceiling, or rack to speakers then pigtail to tv. This gives you the ability to either put s local amp at the tv if you have to or a passive soundbar along with the ceiling speakers whenever you choose, the cost to add that step in the prewire is negligible in the grand scheme but is worth it IMO

Araknis or rukus. What is the budget per AP, ISP speed? Router and switches?

Josh is configured to the roku as the playback device in this scenario, josh probably won't be able to turn the tv on natively but you could get a global cache ir device. Samsung and IP is flakey so from a reliability standpoint it could stop or inconsistently control the tv with or without c4. In a c4 ecosystem josh is using that to control the tv Roku is better than any tvs built in streaming menu for both consistency, speed, integration. You would be using it for all streaming and forget the samsung is anything more than a display and possibly the speakers if you don't have the audio output fed to the rack for distributed audio. Ea1 is only needed if the wiring requires additional ir or serial ports, on screen and zigbee AP. I rarely ever use the hdmi out for audio purposes unless there is an avr and it is a destination room where a delay is not a problem. Even then I don't like it because I can't watch one thing and listen to another at the same time.

There may be variables that are getting wiped out at reboot? then things are happening, the system checks the variable state which is blank until the next day. I'm not sure, this is the first time I have heard of this so I am thinking out of the box here. Do you have Composer HE and can share screenshots of the programing of the motion sensor?

I think there is validity in your statement as long as you never intend on switching away from control4. Plus if you go with something like lutron and integrate to c4 the client pays for twice the programing. The upside is if you choose lutron lighting and zektor audio matrix you have the ability to rip c4 out and switch automation platforms where if you go native for everything you are most likely locked in forever since the cost of switching is prohibitive. I don't think there is a right or wrong answer really but just wanted to play devil's advocate on the advantage side. If your c4 processor goes down your lighting would still operate and the integration is solid. I like both systems in the end.

Integrated 5 Marantec units the other day and they were pretty nice. Finger print scanner a at the outdoor keypads and no data bus for the opener wiring so just a simple z2io and magnetic sensors at the front wall with no additional part/soldering needed like a lift master needs.

Not possible as far as I am aware. The xfinity boxes are bluetooth paired not 1 way rf like ceiling fans/fireplaces. So IR is the way to go

You could also add a room control driver and trigger off when you enter watch mode instead of source selection so if you make a change mid session then select another source it is ignored

Gotcha, thanks

Thanks, been a while since I dusted that app off. I thought it would still run on 2.6.x but it has been years since I used it

Then a routine in the Alexa app to reword the phrase if you aren't concerned with security

If you use the older My home PC app you might be able to. Is it a HC800 or is there a BL-1 at the end of the model number on the back/underside? If no BL-1 then it doesn't have the site license for the ios/android app which would be a bummer.

Typically it is a stretch for most to automate kids bedrooms fully in c4 for most people once you start weighing in on the priority lists. It really depends on the ages and willingness to be fully in the ecosystem. If you are not going distributed video, many times a tv with a roku and a sonos beam/arc is more than enough but it really comes down to the user and their expectations/budget.

Do you have distributed video or plan to use on screen in all rooms. Depending on cabling to control displays and local items you may not need them at every display but they do broadcast zigbee so you have to be strategic on which ones you opt out

What dimmers are they and are they already installed? You might be able to get a vera hub and control then that way but if you haven't installed them yet I would consider ditching them and putting in essential dimmers to stay native as an alternate option

Need to get someone to confirm but it sounds like the amp is toast. You can try unplugging all the speaker outputs and power cycling to see if a zone is causing the problem but the amp probably needs to be replaced

Wattbox would be better, to try and make the existing setup work. Try a macro that turns the barn off the back on, a delay then reboot the main house side and see if they come back online in an appropriate sequence.