LollerAgent

Fiber to the boathouse.  New network switch in boathouse.  Add WAP, ATV and Dish Joey for the TV.
Then you can take it a step further for when you actually get out on the lake and want wifi.  Then you can install the UBNT AirMax stuff.
I personally wouldn't rely on wifi uplinks.  It does work but there are always variables to make it not work. 

@LollerAgent - Thanks.  That makes sense.  I have ordered a 20 outlet vertical PDU for my rack.

Why is vertical power distribution better?  
1.  Vertical is usually 0U, meaning it doesn't take up any horizontal rack space.
2.  It means shorter and cleaner runs for your devices since you don't have to go up/down with your power runs.

Why is vertical power distribution better?  
1.  Vertical is usually 0U, meaning it doesn't take up any horizontal rack space.
2.  It means shorter and cleaner runs for your devices since you don't have to go up/down with your power runs.

Why aren't you just using native C4 audio?  I can't remember your reason for using Sonos. 

Lot's of questions and lots of lack of information on how to make things better.
Good news with both Alexa and Google with the NATIVE control4 integration - no 3rd party drivers, you can now talk to the dot/mini/whatever and say turn the lights on/off and it will know the room you are in and turn the lights on/off!  Awesome right?  I know this post is going to lead to more questions but I'm tired of all the random questions.
Alexa
In order to make this work in Alexa you have to setup Groups.  (Think of groups like rooms).
Each Group has a prefered Alexa device (which can be any generation echo or spot) - ONLY ONE
Here are instructions on how to setup Groups - https://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=201749250
The key to a group is a few things:
1) Pick the right Alexa device - you can only pick one
2) Pick everything you want that Alexa device to control and add it to the group
3) KEY STEP - DON'T SKIP - Control4 devices come in as "switches" not lights, you have to change that for every lighting load.  You have to go to all devices, the find the device, click gears and change the type to Light from switch and save.  You must do this for every load.
Bonus Feature: You can also call a group by a name, so if you are in the living room you can tell it to turn the master bedroom lights on/off
 
Google
WIth Google you do much the same.  You setup rooms in the google Home app, add all your devices including more then 1 Google Mini/Nest Mini/Google Home/Nest home to a room.  THen when you are in that room - Googl turn the lights on off.
 
Is this helpful? Should I explain it more step by step?
 
I am available for consultations.
 

A bit off-topic here, but since you mentioned how beautiful the programmable LED's are..
I finally just got around to adding some engraved buttons to my KD-120's.  I'm a bit disappointed with the light bleed issues at times.  Some keypads are worse than others, but almost all of them bleed a little bit of the backlight and the LED lights to other buttons.  I can also see the light bleed out from the wall plate (I don't use the official C4 wallplates).  
I don't have any multi-gang C4 keypads/switches, but if I did, I would also be worried about the uniformity of backlight/LED's between different switches/keypads.  This problem has been reported on these forums a few times already.

Is this even necessary?  I have the 12V trigger both of my amps (one Episode, one Triad) wired to the 12V trigger outputs on my Triad matrix and my amps turn on/off properly.  Is this just because I have a matrix in the mix?

Yes mitch they most likely wont even charge you. they have sent me ears and rack parts no charge
not even a shipping charge
 

Snap will probably send you some if you contact your rep.  They have sent me Episode amp rack ears before.

Its just a controller, use 3rd party strips and power supply. Learns into a hue hub, then use the hue lamp drivers to control in C4

Any pics of the panel, I’d love a nice panel to run all my rgb too it’s just a big rats nest in my closet

Not too much trouble at all. 
 
LED lights
DMX Dimmers
Power Supply
Wire
DMX Controller
Control4 Driver
It’s a best practice to use a dimmer for each strand of lights. You can get two, but you’ll start to get voltage drop towards the end of the strip. 
 
They have DMX dimmers that have multiple outputs/channels too. This is my only experience with it, but it turned out awesome! We also have lights that go around the backside of the screen that light up the walls around it, and some lights under the bar at the back of the theater. It’s a nice touch. 
 
It took me way more time than I think it should have to educate myself on DMX. I’m far from an expert on it, but happy to help however I can. 

I really would like to know why C4 made the battery not replaceable.. of all the hardware changes that this remote could have potentially used..

I'm honestly not sure what you are asking for?

I use these labels with my Brady BM21-Plus label maker:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XU7T4E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They work great for all cables in my rack.  The labels are a bit expensive, but you find generic alternatives on Amazon for much cheaper.

And I miss the good ole component days where 1080P looked amazing and video always worked.

I can control my Hue bulbs directly from a SR260 as well.  It also shows feedback.

Roku reached out to me directly on Reddit and asked me to send them information.  I would encourage others having this issue to send info as well.  More info:
 

One of my Ultras just started having annoying issues.  This one is connected to a Denon x4300h.  When I turn on the TV/AVR/Roku (via Watch), the TV says "No Signal."  It won't even show the Denon OSD.  Other video sources connected to the Denon work just fine.  The way that I have been "fixing" this is to manually pull the power on the Roku.  Once it boots back up, everything is fine again until the next power cycle of the TV/AVR/Roku.  Luckily this Roku is not behind a TV, it's in a cabinet.
Is this similar to the problem you are having?  I haven't had time to do any research, but now that you say it, it did start around the time that Disney+ was launched.  It's driving my wife and I nuts.  I have 3 other Ultra's in the house that are not connected to AVR's, and I am not having the issue with them.

Heavy question really. This could contain page upon page of use options etc. I'll try and give a bit of an overview.
First, always remember that experience buttons can be displayed in many menus by choice, so you have more freedom in where they show up.
Let's start breaking them out first into a few 'types' if you will:
*"Basic" built for purpose options. These are really basic options, generally they fall under the UI buttons catagory. No real programming function, but added to enhance visual options and diversity.
Examples are PS4, HDMI, Component, Cassette, Chromecast and so on.
*"Standard" built for one purpose ones. Often these are 'enhanced' re-builds of drivers that already existed for simple function, with added option, though sometimes they add enhancements to the overall system or are used to 'display' a function in an alternate (or more advanced) way to using the more basic screen custom buttons.
A lot of these allow using switches as 'relays' directly, removing the need for funky programming, and add timer features
Examples are Fireplace, Fountain, (Garage) Door, (Ceiling/Extract) Fan, Pump, Door Auto Lock...you get the idea
*"Advanced" built for purpose options. These are more work to setup, as they offer more options/settings or in some cases you need multiple to cover a whole project. They generally exist to make advanced programming easier to do, keep it more contained and/or to give an interface to some advanced programming options.
Examples are RGB Light (select and display color of an RGB light), Announcement On/Off (per room ability to 'block' announcements), Mockupancy Driver, Security (would have preferred the term Courtesy) Light, Snapshot, etc
*"Special" built for purpose options are drivers that are very purpose specific. These genreally ONLY work on T3 screens (and in Composer) at this point.
Examples are Calendar, Notepad, To Do
*"Fun" drivers. More built to test the limits than anything. Ask your dealer to add Clumsy Bird or 2048 - just don't hold me or him/her responsible.
*"3rd Party device" drivers. More and more advanced drivers (or suites) are starting to use experience buttons.
Examples are Ecobee and Powerview drivers
*"Generic" buttons. There are a few very generic buttons, that you can use freely for anything you want, which is I'm guessing largely what you're asking about.
Examples are Countdown, Status UI, Scenario (RGB sort of falls in this category too I suppose)
 
These last ones are primarily used to give the end user better insight and/or control over often asked functions.
Some programming examples I've done for clients or myself:
 
*Count Down:
-Instead of All Off on button press, touchscreen has the option of displaying this (and you can tie it to buttons as well) where there's a countdown to all the lights turning off. So when I'm leaving the house, I press it from my T3 and I have several minutes to actually get out the door, the garage, close everything off and so on.
-Activate it at bed time. Once it's up, all TVs shut off. Again, nothing that couldn't be done in programming already on a button press, but now you have visual feedback.
*Status UI
-As it gives feedback by way of a color 'led' on it, I've used these often to indicate whether multiple optional override programming is on or off and to control it at the same time), ie  Exterior lighting schedule is running regular on green, vacation mode on yellow, party mode on blue, off on red.
-Indication of certain events having occured. Used it in one place to indicate which motions were triggered during a day, if doors were unlocked during the day or night when they normally wouldn't be, etc. Similar to what some do using button LED colors, but now on touchscreens.
*Scenario is a basic on/off only version of the Status UI, though it has one significant twist - it was designed to make it easy for dealers to create alternate versions using custom items for the on/off state. There's a few of these around for sale with huge packs of them (Blackwire has one, think Chowmain did one too). These are often liked becasue it will also give a direct status feedback using the different icons, so you can see when a source device is in use. Think, if someone is using the Switch, you see that under the screens in other rooms without having to check the zones page.

Wow - that was easy, thanks Mitch! Guess I should have RTFM'd.  The option is called "Passthrough Mode" for those who didn't already know.

BOND is on sale right now for $47.99:  https://tools.woot.com/offers/bond-smart-home-automation?utm_medium=affiliate&utm_source=Slickdeals+LLC&utm_campaign=CJ&cjevent=e4b6c2580fd011ea83d300390a24060c

BOND is on sale right now for $47.99:  https://tools.woot.com/offers/bond-smart-home-automation?utm_medium=affiliate&utm_source=Slickdeals+LLC&utm_campaign=CJ&cjevent=e4b6c2580fd011ea83d300390a24060c

Ahh!  Have a link?  Don't see it on his website, but I'm probably looking in the wrong place.