JR2

SmartDNSProxy.com

This
It costs a bit more but the quality is up there and integration within Control4 is a snap.  buying another TV then having to deal with 3rd party drivers is annoying.  Flat out Sony just works.  Last 2 TVs I got were both Sonys - I tried to get a cheap Hisense TV and set up with C4 was so awful it went back for the 2nd Sony Tv in a row.  Any new TV/replacement TV in my house will be another Sony for sure.

usually the way I've seen electricians do it is to put a high voltage contactor in between the heat tape and a regular Control4 120v switch.

I think that they quoted you the entire panel replacement and not the upgrade kit.
Attached is the part number list for the processor board upgrade kit that should cost in SA about USD 1100.00
intellicenter-upgrade-kit-brochure[1].pdf

Yes and no.
First consult https://www.cellmapper.net/
Verify that the Bands that your tower/provider/carrier uses are supported by the model that you are interested in.
Make sure that the optional modem is included in the purchase and that it is compatible with your carrier.
Check and see if your carrier is CAT 3, CAT 6, etc.  Verify that the modem supports all of their modes.
My modem is CAT 3 but my carrier services CAT 3 and CAT 6 in my area.  You don't want to purchase a Ferrari when a Kia will do just fine.
The Importance of CAT 6 LTE (westbase.io)
Higher the CAT the more MIMO you get and increase the likelihood of good service when the system has high traffic.  
 
Be careful with SIM cards.  Some carriers only provide one size for broadband  services and you may get a unit that you cannot activate.
User
equipment
Category Max. L1
datarate
Downlink
(Mbit/s) Max. number
of DL MIMO
layers Max. L1
datarate
Uplink
(Mbit/s) 3GPP Release NB1 0.68 1 1.0 Rel 13 M1 1.0 1 1.0 0 1.0 1 1.0 Rel 12 1 10.3 1 5.2 Rel 8 2 51.0 2 25.5 3 102.0 2 51.0 4 150.8 2 51.0 5 299.6 4 75.4 6 301.5 2 or 4 51.0 Rel 10 7 301.5 2 or 4 102.0 8 2,998.6 8 1,497.8 9 452.2 2 or 4 51.0 Rel 11 10 452.2 2 or 4 102.0 11 603.0 2 or 4 51.0 12 603.0 2 or 4 102.0 13 391.7 2 or 4 150.8 Rel 12 14 3,917 8 9,585 15 750 2 or 4 226 16 979 2 or 4 n/a 17 25,065 8 n/a Rel 13 18 1174 2 or 4 or 8 n/a 19 1566 2 or 4 or 8 n/a

Talk about going from a Rolls Royce to a Toyota.

You don’t need automation in the same way you don’t need power windows in your car.  It just makes life easier.

It's a tarnished asset. 1/3 of it cost $200M in 2017 - now the whole thing is sub-$300M.  Nice service, but tough market.

Occasional charging issue with tabletop
C4 Broker update to better support drivers that go online/offline
Some future support stuff
Those are the main items.
 
Pretty small release.

You’re doing a multi-AP project.  3x3 is plenty suitable for residential and even most commercial projects.
if you don’t like the looks of the AP: https://oberoninc.com/products/1018-00/

UniFi, Pak and Araknis tech specs are similar to what you see from avr manufacturers.  Bloated and exaggerated, like watts per channel.
You guys really think a UniFi AP can handle 300-400 clients?  I know they can’t, really about 40-50 before they crap out.
Ruckus has the high price because it has the higher performance and their specs are true.
Never attempted to try Pak or Araknis in the same test, so can’t be sure for them.  But at their price points, you should be buying Ruckus anyways.

Also to add to this the economics of driver development are like any other piece of software.  You have expenses (Employee salaries, computers, software, office space, etc) that need to be paid and as such have a minimum rate to ensure that what you are building is profitable.  Some drivers are cheaper as they are less time / resource intensive and others will require muliple programmers, graphics designers, etc to contribute for the project.  As such one off projects are definately cost prohibited.  We have had customers pay us for custom development and they have justified it as the money they save on not buying an alternative product (eg a blind in the case i am thinking of) is enough to warrant commissioning the project.
Having said all of that the majority of people who contract us nowadays are manufacturers and we are finding that we are doing less of our own IP and more contracted work.  You can find the majority of these contracted (and free drivers) via our website (http://www.chowmainsoft.com) with some others being certified (with SDDP implemented) and available via the online Control4 database.
We do however still invest into passion projects where we see gaps in the solutions and we find a product that will fill that gap.  There are actually a ton of passion projects i want to complete but unfortunately contracts come first.  Hopefully now that we have 3 inhouse Control4 developers we will complete more of these passion projects but regardless you will see more output from us for Control4.

While I completely respect your experience and knowledge, I find this statement rich given how much Ubiquiti, especially with Unifi, has become more and more of a beta product lineup in the last few years and constantly are releasing FW updates and changes that straight-up break or bork functionality. 
As a developer and infrastructure engineer my self, I've actually had it with UBNT and am moving away from them....

Why do you think it´s a general problem with the brand?  If there are issues with a network, replacing the equipment with another brand would be very, very low in the list.
Networking is not trivial to setup and a lot of components need to work with each other.
There are lots of things that can cause issues: misconfigured switches, misconfigured endpoints, badly behaving endpoints, for wifi often (mostly) the endpoint is the problem, not the AP, cable issues, etc.
You said "i began working with my original dealer" - has that changed? Who did setup the network?

In case it's of interest, here is document another C4 dealer, Ryan Messinger created detailing how to integrated Alexa into a Control4 multi-zone audio system.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/r3yzu7v48ov3smw/Integrating Alexa’s Audio into a Control4 Audio System.pdf?dl=0

This thread mentions a few different ways.  You need a $20.00 contactor and an C4 operated switch or relay
Pool motor control - Push the Envelope - c4forums | The Control4 Community
 

MeMu works well.  That's what I switched to, but rarely use it though.

No need to.  Unleashed goes up to 25 Waps or less.  I have many small businesses, trader type clients that move alot, running cordless Voip phones with zero latency in handoffs during calls.
Using the app just gets the system quickly setup and ready to be used.  Logging into the Master AP is where the full config options are for the network.

--->> C4 Essential Lighting <<---
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTLZDnTX71AC4
The new C4 switches and dimmers are MSRP $85.00 each.
At this price point the Caseta system will be more expensive - purchase and set up of Pro Caseta hub
Furthermore I find the individual Caseta  buttons annoying.  You have to pay attention to what you are pressing where as with the "paddle" type of switch (C4/RadioRa) you can be walking by and just tap the paddle while on the go.
3 years ago when I was researching lighting switches the main choices were RA2 and C4.  The entry price was about the same, but, the aesthetics of the C4 switch did not win me over and I went with RA2.
Now that the Essential line is available without hesitation I would go with it.  You can do much more with less $$ and no hub is needed. 
I currently own all 3 systems, Caseta, RA2, and C4 lighting.  I will be removing Caseta in the near future.
 

IMO at the moment in technology if you are not planning on deploying C4 using C4 supported CCTV, lighting and/or shades, and using the C4 mobile app, then the C4 system is overkill for your needs.
DIY systems/smart remotes do an ok job with Sonos and video, throw in lighting or more and it all goes down hill from there.  IMO all of the entry level systems (homekit, Alexa, etc.) have plateaued.  Not much more will evolve until there is some sort of industry agreed upon communication /  integration standard and history has shown us that this will not happen.
I like the fact that when I want to check up on my vacation home, fire up the app, change to my vacation home, look at the video streams, turn some lights on and off, etc.  Camera senses motion, C4 sends me an e-mail.
Want to check the temp and humidity - C4 app shows this too. 
I would hate to use an CCTV app, then switch to my lighting app, then, switch to a climate app, etc.
My advice is to deploy the system in stages and you will be happier and to avoid cloud based integrations - Nest, Ring, and so forth.

any tech needs support.  I’m getting my 3rd cable box in 14 months on Thursday.  Nothing to do w c4, just junk hardware.  It’s life

Depends on your model of garage stuff like:
https://www.creativeaccesssolutions.com/Universal-Security-20™-Interface-Module_p_13.html
https://www.garadget.com/product/security-2-0-dry-contact-adapter/
Then tilt sensors Which work on any door
https://www.nycesensors.com/product/garage-door-tilt-sensor
 

@JR2 Which is your switch model number?    ps a lot of SFP modules work in SFP+ at 1G.   For 10G speeds, the switch, modules, and receiving and transmitting clients all have to be 10G. 
[Corrected]

I happened to ask this question recently direct to C4 - they HAVE no specific requirements on the SPF/SPF+ and should work with any generic set unit, and most 'brand specific' units.
 
I've been told Ubiquiti's units work just fine though I haven't gotten to test them yet (not high on the pandemic 'need to spend money on' for my own place)

The biggest issue for EPG is that most devices don't provide an API to get that data, and the second biggest issue is that Control4 doesn't have a proxy-based way to display that information.
For other dynamic information, the MSP UI works fairly well, but it doesn't work well for EPG-type data.
It would certainly be cool, but you'd also have to have UI to select a channel / record a program / etc. from that data, I wouldn't expect this anytime soon... 
RyanE
 

I love mine. Only thing I wish for is backlit keys. In my blacked out theater, it’s still awkward to find the correct hard button to press.