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MyQ DriverCentral driver now completely dead?


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2 hours ago, eggzlot said:

for those interested - photo of the remote and then the inside of the remote and how to solder the wires.  when you open the remote the circuit board will be showing the other side (with the battery).  flip it over.  the areas where I did the solder are for the button all the way to the left (Big button) and then the button all the way to the right.  we do not use the middle button (just how the garage door installer set up our 2 door garage).

If using a relay one wire goes into COM, one goes into NO.  done.

Sensors you can hardwire or get the NYCE wireless tilt ones.

This remote is in my rack next to my EA5 easily 60-80' from the door yet it still works perfectly at that distance.

 

Screen Shot 2021-08-30 at 8.06.05 AM.jpg

 

 

Eggzlot beat me to the post.  We purchase a Liftmaster 893 Max remote and do this for every single install.  It's by far one of the easiest ways to integrate Garage door opening/closing functions.  

The Lift Master 893 Max garage door opener can open almost any door from 1993 until now.  It works on any garage door motor that has a green, orange/red, purple, yellow circle.  it works on Liftmaster and Chamberlin doors.

Here is a chart if you want to find your remote.

Because the garage door remotes use such a low frequency they can travel a long distance.  Even if you can't get the Liftmaster 893 Max inside your garage, if you get it close chances are it will still work.  For best results, I recommend trying to hard wire it to a controller relay.  Z2io's are a good option too as a last resort.  

You can buy the door openers off Amazon.  If you've never solder before it just takes a few moments practice but isn't super hard.  

After programming the remote/button.  To verify you have the correct contacts, you can short them out with a small paper clip to make you are about to solder the right contacts.  

I do not recommend getting the Garadget device.  It's just as easy to wire up a Liftmaster 893 Max.  Once you do this setup, you'll wonder why you ever tried to bother with cloud based drivers.  

 

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46 minutes ago, msgreenf said:

there is not today - but I love this idea!

Although I definitely see the appeal of Open Source solutions, including opengarage, I still think traditional hardwired sensors beat it.

I do think something like this would be kind of cool to integrate to know if cars are in the garage, but not all that useful for the doors themselves.  Ultrasonic devices have their own set of issues (bugs, mainly).

 

I also think Zigbee or hardwired is going to be better than wifi, typically garage is not your best wifi location.

RyanE

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24 minutes ago, RyanE said:

Although I definitely see the appeal of Open Source solutions, including opengarage, I still think traditional hardwired sensors beat it.

I do think something like this would be kind of cool to integrate to know if cars are in the garage, but not all that useful for the doors themselves.  Ultrasonic devices have their own set of issues (bugs, mainly).

 

I also think Zigbee or hardwired is going to be better than wifi, typically garage is not your best wifi location.

RyanE

My three opengarage garages have been up for a year without issue, far more stable and reliable than, say, the DS2 or the EA5 itself.  And they were $50 (plus another 15 for the security 2.0 dongle). 

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2 minutes ago, wnpublic said:

My three opengarage garages have been up for a year without issue, far more stable and reliable than, say, the DS2 or the EA5 itself.  And they were $50 (plus another 15 for the security 2.0 dongle). 

My 2 hardwired openers and doors (with 2 sensors each) have been up and running for 20 years.

:)

I'm glad the solution is working for you.

RyanE

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1 minute ago, RyanE said:

My 2 hardwired openers and doors (with 2 sensors each) have been up and running for 20 years.

:)

I'm glad the solution is working for you.

RyanE

Same boat as Ryan.  My garage springs died/snapped after 18 years of use.  Hardwired opener/Sensors are still going strong :).   

 

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2 minutes ago, RyanE said:

My 2 hardwired openers and doors (with 2 sensors each) have been up and running for 20 years.

:)

I'm glad the solution is working for you.

RyanE

I'm glad there are multiple solutions that are reliable, especially less expensive ones given that so many end users of your company's products got sold a myQ solution that doesn't work anymore by their dealers.

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Just now, Jeff W said:

Same boat as Ryan.  My garage springs died/snapped after 18 years of use.  Hardwired opener/Sensors are still going strong :).   

I only had 1 of the two doors' springs snap a couple of years ago.

:)

The garage door guy who replaced the spring was surprised the garage door openers (which are still Genie Pro) were still working so well.

RyanE

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14 minutes ago, Dave w said:

Ok, so for 3 doors and one Ea3.... If I buy a LiftMaster 893 Max remote and bust out the soldering tools, what else do I need.? The EA3 only has one contact switch and one relay...Z2io only has 2. ?  

 

Couple of options.  

  • Upgrade to EA5
  • Add IOXv2
  • Keep adding z2io's until you hit your necessary amount of contacts and/or relays. You can have the different doors connected to different z2io's.  

Depends if you want to have sensors on each door.  Same thing applies, keep adding contacts/relays until you're covered.  You'll need a dealer to add the drivers and make the bindings.  

 

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1 hour ago, Dave w said:

Ok, so for 3 doors and one Ea3.... If I buy a LiftMaster 893 Max remote and bust out the soldering tools, what else do I need.? The EA3 only has one contact switch and one relay...Z2io only has 2. ?  

What do you plan on doing for sensors?  Wireless or wired?  NYCE Tilt sensors are zigbee so in that case you’ll just need a Z2IO for the relay (can be 2 relays) and you are done and dont have to use what you have free on the EA3.  If you want to wire the sensors then see above with various hardware options

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24 minutes ago, eggzlot said:

What do you plan on doing for sensors?  Wireless or wired?  NYCE Tilt sensors are zigbee so in that case you’ll just need a Z2IO for the relay (can be 2 relays) and you are done and dont have to use what you have free on the EA3.  If you want to wire the sensors then see above with various hardware options

The modified remotes. Are you just relying on battery for those remotes or hardwiring a power source for them as well?

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26 minutes ago, eggzlot said:

What do you plan on doing for sensors?  Wireless or wired?  NYCE Tilt sensors are zigbee so in that case you’ll just need a Z2IO for the relay (can be 2 relays) and you are done and dont have to use what you have free on the EA3.  If you want to wire the sensors then see above with various hardware options

yes, NYCE sensors x3.   But I also need 3 relays for 3 doors.  So two Z2ios....which is getting expensive.  I may just go the Lutron route with a single visor control instead since lighting is a all RA2. 

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1 hour ago, Dave w said:

yes, NYCE sensors x3.   But I also need 3 relays for 3 doors.  So two Z2ios....which is getting expensive.  I may just go the Lutron route with a single visor control instead since lighting is a all RA2. 

yeah no idea how lutron works with MyQ and the pros/cons associated with it.  the good part about going with the Z2ios is there are no hubs, no hops, etc.  all zigbee/control4 so its snappy and just works.

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3 hours ago, Dave w said:

Ok, so for 3 doors and one Ea3.... If I buy a LiftMaster 893 Max remote and bust out the soldering tools, what else do I need.? The EA3 only has one contact switch and one relay...Z2io only has 2. ?  

Buy a used HC800 for the relays/sensors.  It has 4 of each.

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6 minutes ago, Control4Savant said:

How long until they EOL the 800s support tho...

Total. I would not be adding an 800 to an existing system at this point in time. In nearly every thread @zaphodadvocates for adding near dead hc800 which is just not the right approach. 

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11 hours ago, Dave w said:

yes, NYCE sensors x3.   But I also need 3 relays for 3 doors.  So two Z2ios....which is getting expensive.  I may just go the Lutron route with a single visor control instead since lighting is a all RA2. 

If you can run wires the cheapest (and really most robust) option is to get an IO extender. If not then I think the option @eggzlotmentioned where he said to use one of the relays on the EA-3 for 1 door and configure a Z2IO for 2 relays for the other doors and then put NYCE wireless sensors on each door. 

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That's because it is a cheap (~$100) solution in the short term.  Sure it might get EOL'ed in a couple of years, but then there may be other options available, or you may move, buy a new door opener that has a full on driver or get something else.  And the HC-800 also has lots of inputs and outputs - C4 skimps on relays and sensors on newer controllers - the EA-3 only has 1 sensor and 1 contact.

Another option, if you have ethernet, is a Global Cache GC-100.

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26 minutes ago, zaphod said:

Another option, if you have ethernet, is a Global Cache GC-100.

Or if you dont have ethernet then you could get the Global Cache GCWF2CC. This would give you 3 relays for all 3 doors.

https://www.globalcache.com/products/itach/wf2ccspecs/

But again, the biggest question is how much wiring can be ran to a centralized location.

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4 hours ago, therockhr said:

Or if you dont have ethernet then you could get the Global Cache GCWF2CC. This would give you 3 relays for all 3 doors.

https://www.globalcache.com/products/itach/wf2ccspecs/

But again, the biggest question is how much wiring can be ran to a centralized location.

But that only has relays, not sensors. You would also need the WF2IR for sensors as it can either do IR blasting or sensors.

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Just an FYI. The new smart liftmaster units will only talk to 5 devices (keypads). Keeping in mind the wireless ones count as 2! If you are adding a keypad in a location you "can" get a wire to, this might save you banging your head against a wall when it doesnt work consistently or doesn't close. Read the fine print. Stay safe my dudes

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