MyQ DriverCentral driver now completely dead?

[eggzlot]

Its funny but I had the MyQ driver, switched to a solder remote, and the solder remote works better!  From day 1 the MyQ sensor state was always delayed so I had hard wired sensors already installed on the door.  Point being sensors + extra remote + a relay is almost the same cost as the 3rd Party MyQ driver.  

I notice the only "home automation" platform listed (that is not security based but can do some automation) is HomeKit.  I don't see C4, Crestron, Savant, Elan, URC, etc.  Has to be a reason - which is above my pay grade.

End of day after having C4 for 7+ years I've learned:

1. Get as many non cloud dependent devices as possible
2. Look for certified C4 drivers

If I did that prior to picking out the garage doors I would have purchased something else.  But live, learn and move on.

[wnpublic]

2 hours ago, msgreenf said:

all these posts are just repeating the same arguments...nothing new has been added in days to this thread...

3 posts later....

1 hour ago, msgreenf said:

aka hacks...there are no such thing as authorized open source use of MyQ

 

[RyanE]

4 hours ago, DanITman said:

So Control4 does want to find a middle ground on this?  It sounds like they have abandoned talks on it.

As Control4 has not said anything about the state of discussions on the topic (and very likely won't), this is all speculation.

The only facts at this point are that there is no integration, and that an alternate solution for local control is available (hard wiring a keypad, and use contact inputs for feedback).

Anything more than this is speculation.

RyanE

[cdepaola]

Wow, this is really a hot topic! 

If anyone wants to start a new tic-toc trend send me your LiftMaster and or Chamberlain openers and I'll deliver them to the their HQ front door and explain that these are from pissed of Control4 users. 

[Cyknight]

6 hours ago, cdepaola said:

Wow, this is really a hot topic! 

If anyone wants to start a new tic-toc trend send me your LiftMaster and or Chamberlain openers and I'll deliver them to the their HQ front door and explain that these are from pissed of Control4 users. 

LOL I may actually create a a tic-toc account to see that. (But no, I wouldn't )

[cdepaola]

On 9/21/2021 at 11:27 PM, Cyknight said:

LOL I may actually create a a tic-toc account to see that. (But no, I wouldn't )

I'd post the videos here just for you Cyk!

So far however not a single person has taken me up on the offer... I'm ready though, I pass their offices up on a daily basis. 

[pfissure]

Ok I would like to thank everyone for their input.  I am now going to start on this garage door project.  I have read all of the suggestions and the helpful howto's.  I have a good sense of what I need to do but still a few questions I was hoping to get your help with.  

A.  Garage door status/sensors.

So I plan to put contact sensors on the garage door and connect these to a Z2IO located in the garage.  I know I have Zigbee range there because there are C4 light switches in the garage.  Here are my questions. Note I have only one garage door.

1.  contact sensors.  @RyanE helpfully suggested getting two sensors so that I can have a closed and an open state.  As I understand it what this means is that I will put the garage in a closed position and then mount sensors to be "in contact" when the garage in this position and those sensors will be indicating the closed position of the garage.  Then I will do the same with the garage open and a second pair of sensors.  Is this correct?  

2. garage-specific sensors.  Again @RyanEhelpfully suggested using "garage-specific sensors" because they mount better.  Can you suggest a specific product to buy?

3. programming.  Finally, once I have the hardware in place, this will need to be included in my C4 project obviously. I suppose at this point I ask my dealer to get involved?  My dealer is generally very good so I trust he will be able to handle it.  I just tell him that my garage door is no longer controlled by the defunct MyQ driver but now its state should be read from the state of these sensors?

Note that I do quite a lot of programming myself in Composer HE.  So all I really need is the garage door to appear in my project with the actions of "open" and "close" and with events like "garage door opening" etc. and I can take it from there.

 

B.  Controlling the garage door.

I will solder a spare remote.  I think I can figure out how to do that.  And then from what I understood from your suggestions the wire will then be connected to another Z2IO either in the garage or connected directly to the controller via an "IO extender" in the rack.  I would prefer to connect it directly to the controller because I know that my rack is within Garage-Remote-Range of the garage door.  Questions:

1.  I have an HC800.  What input on the HC800 am I connecting to?  This is one aspect of the installation that your suggestions were a little short of details on.  How do I obtain the IO extender?

2.  programming again.  I suppose again this part will require the involvement of my dealer.  Again I just need the actions to be available to me in Composer HE and I can take it from there.

 

Thanks again for the super helpful people on this great forum and I look forward to your answers.

[RyanE]

I'm using this style of 'garage door specific' hardware: http://www.seco-larm.com/SM-4201-LQ (2 per door, one for 'fully closed', one for 'fully opened').

I fully close the door, and mount the sensor on the track near the top of the top segment of the door, and mount the magnet part (with the 'arm') alongside the sensor. The sensor is designed to fit snugly onto standard door track, and is very easy to install.

Here's a picture of my 2 doors, both closed, showing their magnets and sensors: https://imgur.com/oAkA1MK

I then fully open the door, and mount the second sensor alongside the new position of the magnet with the door open. Here's a picture of one of my doors opened (looking up at the ceiling): https://imgur.com/gSYxQF7

The same magnet is shown on the right door in both pictures.  Notice that there's quite a wide gap between the magnet on the door and the sensor.  These sensors are made to handle about a very wide gap, up to 3"  (product page: http://www.seco-larm.com/SM-4201-LQ). The placement of the magnet also keeps it from rubbing on the door through the door's full range of motion.

Since they're such wide gap sensors, there's no false reports when wind blows the garage door, etc.

RyanE

(Edited to say that I mounted the sensor first, then the magnet on the door, although either would probably work, it made more sense to me to mount the first sensor, then the magnet, then the second sensor).

P.S. Ignore the Genie hardware in the pictures, that was for beta of the Genie integration, which works fine, but is cloud-based, so it's somewhat slow in reporting, and of course, only reports 'fully closed' or 'not fully closed' status.  I don't use it anymore and just haven't removed the hardware as of yet.

[RAV]

ZIO can be configured as 2 contacts and 1 relay.
Using 1 per door, gets you the relay to create the button press, and the 2 contacts for open and closed.

Or use the relay (and contacts) in a controller if you're able and run wiring to the garage. However, there have been instances of EMI etc causing falses.

Little programming, its just connections to a driver in composer.

[Dueport]

14 hours ago, RyanE said:

I'm using this style of 'garage door specific' hardware: http://www.seco-larm.com/SM-4201-LQ (2 per door, one for 'fully closed', one for 'fully opened').

I fully close the door, and mount the sensor on the track near the top of the top segment of the door, and mount the magnet part (with the 'arm') alongside the sensor. The sensor is designed to fit snugly onto standard door track, and is very easy to install.

Here's a picture of my 2 doors, both closed, showing their magnets and sensors: https://imgur.com/oAkA1MK

I then fully open the door, and mount the second sensor alongside the new position of the magnet with the door open. Here's a picture of one of my doors opened (looking up at the ceiling): https://imgur.com/gSYxQF7

The same magnet is shown on the right door in both pictures.  Notice that there's quite a wide gap between the magnet on the door and the sensor.  These sensors are made to handle about a very wide gap, up to 3"  (product page: http://www.seco-larm.com/SM-4201-LQ). The placement of the magnet also keeps it from rubbing on the door through the door's full range of motion.

Since they're such wide gap sensors, there's no false reports when wind blows the garage door, etc.

RyanE

(Edited to say that I mounted the sensor first, then the magnet on the door, although either would probably work, it made more sense to me to mount the first sensor, then the magnet, then the second sensor).

P.S. Ignore the Genie hardware in the pictures, that was for beta of the Genie integration, which works fine, but is cloud-based, so it's somewhat slow in reporting, and of course, only reports 'fully closed' or 'not fully closed' status.  I don't use it anymore and just haven't removed the hardware as of yet.

I'm about to embark on this project too - replacing the Aladdin integration with wired sensors and (in my case) cardaccess contact sensors and relays - because my Aladdin tilt sensors report erroneous status frequently, and the driver's credentials get lost often and need re-entry.  Anyway, also wanted to thank all the contributors to this thread it has been very helpful as I have planned this project. @RyanE this post was extremely helpful in identifying where I need to place the two contacts on both doors.  One question - would you be able to detail or post a picture about how you made the connection between the armored end of the contact sensor's cable and the control wire?  I haven't spliced regular and armored cable before and I'm not sure if I need/should to do that in a junction box or if zip tying and capping is enough.

[RAV]

The armored is a few feat long and has the 2 conductor typical wire sticking out about a foot longer than the armor. Splice and dress as you wish.

Like this one has a picture of wire, different sensor, usually installed as 1 at top of door.
https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Ademco-958-Overhead-Contacts/dp/B0006M1I1W/ref=pd_sbs_1/138-1764450-5871611?pd_rd_w=2ecPU&pf_rd_p=0a3ad226-8a77-4898-9a99-63ffeb1aef90&pf_rd_r=VKSV0E7DP9MBTJC91FVV&pd_rd_r=52a1d9af-a57a-4ff4-851e-1a4b376d8042&pd_rd_wg=JYXIz&pd_rd_i=B0006M1I1W&th=1

[RyanE]

27 minutes ago, RAV said:

The armored is a few feat long and has the 2 conductor typical wire sticking out about a foot longer than the armor. Splice and dress as you wish.

Like this one has a picture of wire, different sensor, usually installed as 1 at top of door.
https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Ademco-958-Overhead-Contacts/dp/B0006M1I1W

Yes, the armored only goes for 2-3 feet, then regular wire.  Probably not the point, but I don't like the style of the linked, they mostly show them mounted on the floor, which I find problematic (wires at floor level are never a great idea, IMHO).

I believe I just used dolphin crimps (https://www.amazon.com/Dolphin-DC-100P-Super-Connector-Pcs/dp/B000JP7FIQ) on the ends of the armored wire going to my stranded 4-conductor that goes down to the basement.  You're welcome to use the silicone-infused version if you think water will be an issue, or for some extra protection.  I didn't have any of those on hand, so just used the regular ones like link.

As they're low voltage, they don't need to be in any particular box, etc., just dress them so they're out of the way and secured, and you're probably fine.  Mine are zip tied to the rail support, and then zip tied to an electrical conduit until they're into the garage ceiling.

RyanE

[RAV]

17 minutes ago, RyanE said:

Probably not the point, but I don't like the style of the linked, they mostly show them mounted on the floor, which I find problematic (wires at floor level are never a great idea, IMHO).

RyanE

Don't disagree with the floor comment at all, never would use that way.

But they do work well at the top of the door, and their design allows for a wide gap margin as well.
Magnet L brace screwed into the top edge of the door with the sensor on the wall behind it when closed, wires dress well to the side to a ZIO or similar. Particularly with wall mounted openers where the AC is right there for the ZIO.

And rail sensor are nice, and more practical when using dual sensors.

[RyanE]

2 hours ago, RAV said:

And rail sensor are nice, and more practical when using dual sensors.

For my first 10 years in this house, I used a standard wide-gap sensor, plastic body, which I found a clever, out of the way place to mount.

Replaced them with these, and added the 'opened' sensor at the same time, as the wide gap magnet was rubbing against the rail in spots... It had worn down to nearly 2/3rds it's original size.

RyanE

[Dueport]

10 hours ago, RyanE said:

Yes, the armored only goes for 2-3 feet, then regular wire.  Probably not the point, but I don't like the style of the linked, they mostly show them mounted on the floor, which I find problematic (wires at floor level are never a great idea, IMHO).

I believe I just used dolphin crimps (https://www.amazon.com/Dolphin-DC-100P-Super-Connector-Pcs/dp/B000JP7FIQ) on the ends of the armored wire going to my stranded 4-conductor that goes down to the basement.  You're welcome to use the silicone-infused version if you think water will be an issue, or for some extra protection.  I didn't have any of those on hand, so just used the regular ones like link.

As they're low voltage, they don't need to be in any particular box, etc., just dress them so they're out of the way and secured, and you're probably fine.  Mine are zip tied to the rail support, and then zip tied to an electrical conduit until they're into the garage ceiling.

RyanE

 

11 hours ago, RAV said:

The armored is a few feat long and has the 2 conductor typical wire sticking out about a foot longer than the armor. Splice and dress as you wish.

Like this one has a picture of wire, different sensor, usually installed as 1 at top of door.
https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Ademco-958-Overhead-Contacts/dp/B0006M1I1W/ref=pd_sbs_1/138-1764450-5871611?pd_rd_w=2ecPU&pf_rd_p=0a3ad226-8a77-4898-9a99-63ffeb1aef90&pf_rd_r=VKSV0E7DP9MBTJC91FVV&pd_rd_r=52a1d9af-a57a-4ff4-851e-1a4b376d8042&pd_rd_wg=JYXIz&pd_rd_i=B0006M1I1W&th=1

Very helpful guys - I appreciate it!

[turls]

I had asked last year about MyQ co-existing with my existing CardAccess setup.  I ended up lead to believe that they were not compatible.  

I'm here to verify that adding MyQ does not affect my CardAccess setup in the least.  Both MyQ and CardAccess still detect the garage state, and now I can get my Amazon Key deliveries.  I'll report back after I get my first delivery to verify nothing unexpected happens.

[zaphod]

Awesome!  Why would they not co-exist as the CardAccess setup just uses sensors/relays, doesn't it?  So why would it conflict with MyQ?

[Cyknight]

I've no idea why they couldn't co-exist either - it's what we've been doing for years?

[turls]

On 12/14/2021 at 5:29 PM, zaphod said:

Awesome!  Why would they not co-exist as the CardAccess setup just uses sensors/relays, doesn't it?  So why would it conflict with MyQ?

Well, nobody gave a definite answer last year when I asked.  Can't find the thread now.  If it's common knowledge, ok, but thought it might help somebody.

The bigger issue is after all that, Amazon won't let me do an in-garage delivery, and nobody so far in support can explain why it isn't an option.

[pfissure]

Hi everyone, I am the OP (i.e. the one to blame for this long thread.)

After much delay I have now got a z2io added to my project, soldered wires to my Chamberlain remote and connected them to R1 on the z2io.  i can open and close the garage by using the "close relay" action in Properties under the z2io.

 

but i am not a dealer, i don't have composer pro and so i am unable to make the connection between the garage and the z2io.  i like my dealer and he is responsive so i am sure if i told him what to do he would/could do it.

 

so what exactly is the connection that needs to be made?  i have a garage in my project, it has a "garage door" and in programming there are commands like "open" "close" etc.  (and i used to use these with the old myq driver).  

 

i suppose this garage door needs to be connected to the z2io so that "open" will close the relay triggering the soldered remote to send the signal to the garage.  is there a simple way to explain to my dealer what to do?

 

thanks again for your help. 

[Cyknight]

Simply connect the relay connection from the garage door driver to the z2io's.

[Gene]

I figured I would ask this in this thread versus starting a new one.  Previously I have had my garage door with sensors and hardwired to my C4 i/o extender (wire from door panel to i/o extender and sensors back too).  I recently got new Liftmaster onQ doors and can't get the C4 app to open/close the door.  Any ideas?  Thanks!

[cdcllc]

21 minutes ago, Gene said:

I figured I would ask this in this thread versus starting a new one.  Previously I have had my garage door with sensors and hardwired to my C4 i/o extender (wire from door panel to i/o extender and sensors back too).  I recently got new Liftmaster onQ doors and can't get the C4 app to open/close the door.  Any ideas?  Thanks!

If you have a new door opener, it probably is a Security+.  Do you have this part between the door opener and the i/o extender?  https://www.garadget.com/product/security-2-0-dry-contact-adapter/.  

[cdcllc]

More details on hook-up in this post:  

 

[Gene]

Thanks!  I'll try getting two of those and see if that fixes the issue.