Cyknight

As do some others, based on logitech media service - but that wasn't what C4 used to begin with.
Official partnership rules out using unofficial API use though, so stuck - and yes the official API sucks (though that is still more the fault of Spotify/Apple than it is Sonos)

HAH, that one I may have to have some doubts on
 

Sigh, sure yes, when setting the matrix to bypass, you or course find there is noticeable noise introduced, whereas to most others it's basically (pretty much as said) a pass-through device

People really don't ... but they'll convince themselves they do!

Triad One has an optical input so you can just connect it direct. Do note that it only accepts PCM stereo, so you'll have to ensure the computer audio is set to that (as opposed to surround settings)

uh. media PACKAGE, as in a set of media images available to dealers.
And yes that's 3 OSD.
And yes you'd need 3 OSD controllers, be it 3 centralized or 1 behind each TV.
Is this an edited image? Likely, but what you see is far from impossible, indeed easy enough in principal, to do.
And of course to show movies like the side two screens that means you must have a supported media player and driver (and indeed, the C4 media player wouldn't be it 😘).
If you 'just' want the centre TV to have OSD, when then you'd need a setup where the centre TV has OSD available, and the others do not. Pretty basic setup stuff.
 
What YOU (OP) need to do to make all that happen, well I can't really tell from a forum post 🙂

It can yes, but as @RAV more or less indicated, how to wire it can be more complex than a normal relay as a T-Stat is assumed to be powered from the same furnace providing the power to go across the relay of R - W (or R - Y for cool).
So either an isolation unit is needed if that relay isn't the same 24vAC (rare enough) - OR only power the T-Stat and use a controlled relay for control plus programming.
I strongly suggest using an isolation unit as it maintaince the T-Stat's ability to fully function as a stand alone device. I've only in rare occasions done it via a controlled relay and then only for secondary heating control, not a house/building's main heat.
 
Basic way of isolation using standard relays (this would still fully leave the t-stat working as a stand-alone item is system were down) as was detailed with the original t-stat (and still works though the C/TS is now just a C connection):
 

Note that the relays above are standard 24VAC coil relays - should be able to source them for $5 or less a piece...

NOOOOOOO they sure didn't! They could work on powerstealing using battery to bridge voltage drops. Powerstealing support however was VERY dependant on the heating unit and it was dropped as a truly 'advertised' method early on.
 
In fact the NEW thermostats ARE fully capable of running on battery only. That said, I don't recommend it. I don't like to rely on batteries to ensure a house doesn't freeze. Silly maybe but there it is.
@lippavisual has the right method.
 

It can yes, but as @RAV more or less indicated, how to wire it can be more complex than a normal relay as a T-Stat is assumed to be powered from the same furnace providing the power to go across the relay of R - W (or R - Y for cool).
So either an isolation unit is needed if that relay isn't the same 24vAC (rare enough) - OR only power the T-Stat and use a controlled relay for control plus programming.
I strongly suggest using an isolation unit as it maintaince the T-Stat's ability to fully function as a stand alone device. I've only in rare occasions done it via a controlled relay and then only for secondary heating control, not a house/building's main heat.
 
Basic way of isolation using standard relays (this would still fully leave the t-stat working as a stand-alone item is system were down) as was detailed with the original t-stat (and still works though the C/TS is now just a C connection):
 

What you noticed is that it reset to default of showing roo - there's a toggle at the top for room or all (and those stripes in the middle will toggle any load vs only loads that are on)

Make sure each bridge is on a static/reserved IP, use the correct ip, link c4 and bridge (can be helpful to have only one bridge powered when doing this.
Once done it should be able to read the bulbs/group per bridge and you can add and connect drivers as desired, obviously making sure the right devices are on the right bridge.
Requiring an account is new to begin with (existing installs will need to create an account soon if they haven't yet) from Hue - indeed it's one bridge per account right now, something that is stated to be fixed down the road.
If that new account requirement is messing things up I don't know, haven't done a new Hue setup in some time, and I think account requirement was added last quarter 2023? Seems unlikely though as C4 driver is pure direct API, not cloud related.

Indeed.
Constant tinkering is a CHOICE. Nothing wrong with wanting to tweak things to a high degree, and yes that will take effort or money (to have someone to do it for you).
 
Also I strongly disagree that 'the bulk of the programming is locked away'. Adding/removing devices: yes, so is changing conections, but that is NOT the 'bulk' of programming on a system. The 'bulk' ARE those personal tweaks and the vast majority of that is 'pure' programming which is not locked but fully available in ComposerHE.
 

More than one road to the same endpoint on that one.
Easiest is to just use basic IF statements.
If you're talking one or two lights, you cna program it directly under the 'sunset' schedule, however it's easier to tack change and adapt if you use different Macros for each option (you can always copy and paste any lighting that doesn't change in to each macro)
 
WHEN scheduled event sunset occurs IF current month = february IF current day of the month = 14 Execute Macro Valentine lighting STOP IF month is November or December {<---yes you can select more than one moth, this seems to not be noticed by many} Execute Macro Xmas lighting STOP IF day of the week is Saturday Execute Macro Party night Lighting STOP {insert as many as you want in here then END with:} Execute Macro Standard lighting All those date commands are available in the standard scheduler in C4.
the STOP commands will ensure that when any one (or any string of) IF statements is 'true' it will execute that macro then stop reading the rest of the script. and by keeping the default at the bottom, if NONE of the IF statements are true, that last line will occur.
 
The biggest downside is that it's not possible to choose things like 'easter' or other holidays that are not calendar/date based. There's also no easy way of choosing, say, the first Monday in a month (yes it's possible but very annoying to do)

Indeed.
Constant tinkering is a CHOICE. Nothing wrong with wanting to tweak things to a high degree, and yes that will take effort or money (to have someone to do it for you).
 
Also I strongly disagree that 'the bulk of the programming is locked away'. Adding/removing devices: yes, so is changing conections, but that is NOT the 'bulk' of programming on a system. The 'bulk' ARE those personal tweaks and the vast majority of that is 'pure' programming which is not locked but fully available in ComposerHE.
 

HAH. Tell that to my client that had a strike THROUGH THE CONCRETE PAD next to his house.
Not the house.
Not the rod ON his house.
Not the many trees around the house.
Not the comm tower some 500f away from the house
No it went into, through and cracking apart the concrete pad to fuse the re-bar as it travelled through to hit his powerline to the house.
 
Simplified school physics will tell you that electricity will always choose the path of least resistance: but that's HEAVILY simplified and certainly does not take all possible factors of what that path of 'least resistance' looks like in real life.
Remember folk, don't hide under a tree in a lighting storm. 😉

Indeed.
Constant tinkering is a CHOICE. Nothing wrong with wanting to tweak things to a high degree, and yes that will take effort or money (to have someone to do it for you).
 
Also I strongly disagree that 'the bulk of the programming is locked away'. Adding/removing devices: yes, so is changing conections, but that is NOT the 'bulk' of programming on a system. The 'bulk' ARE those personal tweaks and the vast majority of that is 'pure' programming which is not locked but fully available in ComposerHE.
 

Exactly that, something that has female in and male leads out would be super simple to insert, and yes between matrix and amp.
To be clear, I'm in no way guaranteeing it'll work, but it's simple (and cheap) to try for yourself.
I'd go with a cheap one: sincerely doubt paying 4 times the amount will make any difference at all.

Control4 works perfectly but depends on:
-A good C4 dealer to design it and set it up
-On large new builds a builder and architect that are willing to cooperate
-A GOOD network (usually done by dealer)
 
All too often a builder or architect has existing working relationships (if not contracts) with:
-Electricians that refuse to do wiring differently (or charge an arm and a leg, especially true with centralized lighting) because they don't want to......and because they don't want to make less money (again, especially central lighting wiring should be CHEAPER than standard lighting with 3 and 4 ways everywhere) - or these days they'll refuse to accept that a whole house can simply be done with low voltage lighting (you know, it takes away their jobs.....)
-Blind providers (that don't integrate well). Architects and interior designers especially on this one. Hunter Douglas comes to mind. There's a good DRIVER for it, but the API has it's limits and more importantly, all too often the 'smart' design portion doesn't get set up well by the blind company (so even the HD app is finicky, and if that is finicky so will integration)
-HVAC contractors - in these scenarios very often it's carrier (which is a pain) or it's infloor heating from some sort of third party control system (if they just used Tekmar for these....)
Many builders, architects and interior designers (and for that matter specialty contractors, including some C4 dealers) are stuck in their ways, and not open to changes of how they do things, which will cause friction. It takes a skilled dealer/salesman/general contractor to overcome that to ensure whatever is chosen.

Control4 works perfectly but depends on:
-A good C4 dealer to design it and set it up
-On large new builds a builder and architect that are willing to cooperate
-A GOOD network (usually done by dealer)
 
All too often a builder or architect has existing working relationships (if not contracts) with:
-Electricians that refuse to do wiring differently (or charge an arm and a leg, especially true with centralized lighting) because they don't want to......and because they don't want to make less money (again, especially central lighting wiring should be CHEAPER than standard lighting with 3 and 4 ways everywhere) - or these days they'll refuse to accept that a whole house can simply be done with low voltage lighting (you know, it takes away their jobs.....)
-Blind providers (that don't integrate well). Architects and interior designers especially on this one. Hunter Douglas comes to mind. There's a good DRIVER for it, but the API has it's limits and more importantly, all too often the 'smart' design portion doesn't get set up well by the blind company (so even the HD app is finicky, and if that is finicky so will integration)
-HVAC contractors - in these scenarios very often it's carrier (which is a pain) or it's infloor heating from some sort of third party control system (if they just used Tekmar for these....)
Many builders, architects and interior designers (and for that matter specialty contractors, including some C4 dealers) are stuck in their ways, and not open to changes of how they do things, which will cause friction. It takes a skilled dealer/salesman/general contractor to overcome that to ensure whatever is chosen.

Overpriced, silly expensive to maintain and generally unreliable, and once you have it, no-one will want to take it from you? 😉

Overpriced, silly expensive to maintain and generally unreliable, and once you have it, no-one will want to take it from you? 😉

Uhm. The Control4 one?

Uhm. The Control4 one?

Holy Necro thread Batman!
But yes it is the same. Well assuming you mean the license key for HE, not a license key for some random other thing.