Cyknight

Yes I've seen it with Lutron as well, though it seems to need a much 'dirtier' power to get it riled up.

This doesn't work because there is no 'hard' source selected in your situation, but digital media instead. With the inclusion of all the streaming options in recent years, using 'current selected' really is more or less dead.
 
As others have mentioned, the room control driver(s) should be added for you. Dealer can do this -literally drop in the drivers (I would just ask to get this done for every room with audio or video in it)- and from there you can set everything from within composer HE

AAAAAAH that makes sense now. Never thought of it because I would NEVER disable this to begin with.....

There's no doubt about the quality of the product, and if it's in your ability (willingness) to pay for it, then it's a great solution.
Longevity - well I just don't know. If enough people continue to recognize and want to pay for it, it'll stay.
DVD, Bluray, CDs were all 'not going away' either. 🤷‍♂️

Less 'hops' is better, so a place where it can reach the most amount of devices without having to do so (and thus the less hops there are as those devices hop to the next one and so on) the better ingeneral terms. That said ZigBee IS designed to do these hops to create the mesh network, so it's not as if you need to put a lot of effort into finding that 'sweetspot' in a large device count mesh. Assuming devices are fairly evenly distributed, a more or less central location is usually best, at least or especially for a single zap setup.
140 devices is close to max advised for 140 devices, but unless you can 'steal' a good porting of them by having a zap central to a large cluster that is now a lot of 'hops' away, it's not likely to be a huge increase.
 
As is so often the case, the specifics of your setup will determine what is the best approach.
With what you've stated on the layout, I would have one more or less central to the house in the basement, and one on the second floor on the west end.
Basement and east side of house on basement ZAP, rest on second floor ZAP. Of course wring, and other functions of controllers, may shift some of that, as can 'block' like pools, kitchens and bathrooms...
 
One thing to to be aware of when moving ZAPS in a multi ZAP setup is which devices are connected where.
 
Oh and I'll assume you mean full server/zap coordinator combos, and you're not using multiple ZAPS on a single server.

A 'virtual' DAC driver can be added in between the apple tv and the video switch. 'Virtual' in this case because it doesn't control anything: it just tells the system there's something in between that can take HDMI in and output HDMI and stereo at the same time.
C4's own 'pathsetter driver' can do that, or many dealers have a basic a/v switch driver they created themselves to do it (it takes about 2 minutes to create one)

Alternatively, you could consider getting a controlled power bar for those baluns, so you can have a experience button to 'reset' the lot of them if there are issues that is easy to use for everyone else (if this is a rare occasion of course, not a regular irritant)

As you mention that in all isntances it's going through Onkyo receivers, I would suggest a 'trial' run with a long cable if feasible in one location: it's possible that the Onkyo HDMI boards are the source of the handshake issues, and if so HDBaseT balun or direct HDMI may not make a difference.

Most often if you get a no video but audio (or the reverse for that matter) it's because something goes awry with 'auto' setting on resolution etc. and EDID handling. Best practice in most cases is to 'set' the resolution at a certain setting at a source level, and if using a surround receiver, it can often help to ensure that you are NOT upscaling on it (as that tends to create HDCP issues)

The c4 database is also by Zidoo themselves, they just never updated it - use the one from their own site.

Not in OVRC no: it's a dealer tool, not a user tool. OVRC connect (or home, or whatever the name is) is limited in that sense, it's more than anything a tool for (dealer setup) device reboots, some privacy/parental control stuff etc.
Or WAP ui etc yes: as end user and presumably owner of the equipment, you should have been given the codes to them IHMO (certain forms of leasing setups and/or service agreements could possible include not allowing this, but I'm not a fan of that type of thing outside of true enterprise setups). Of course if you start messing in the settings, don't expect your supplier/dealer to fix them (for free) 😉
 
To be clear, OVRC doesn't really allow a dealer to 'hide' anything specific from the user: the user interface just doesn't allow seeing those details to begin with. Certain things don't show up as option unless activated by the dealer in OVRC, but that's not quite the same thing.
 
Note that's not saying unifi doesn't offer a full site UI that end user can access: provided of course installer gave the codes to do so, just pointing out that OVRC doesn't create a 'lock' on device settings.

To be even more specific, they will upgrade to Zigbee3 - that doesn't mean that they'll support any and all ZigBee 3 devices (ie it could still be their own stack)

Just because swapping the module 'fixes' the problem, doesn't mean it isn't the fixture that's the cause. Just ask my client that we replaced (at his cost) 4 dimmers in 1 year before he believed us over his (own) electrician (to be clear, we have our own electrician in house that checked the transformer) that the issue was the transformer in his fixture that was pulling (and creating heat with) 5-10 extra amps of power...
4 APDs vs one $40 transformer 🫠
 

To be even more specific, they will upgrade to Zigbee3 - that doesn't mean that they'll support any and all ZigBee 3 devices (ie it could still be their own stack)

Except that I've seen issues where the switch isn't happening. If it was working fine on PoE, I would try putting it back on PoE and disconnect 230v, to test if there is an issue with the internal power supply

Just wanted to ensure the basics were checked 🤣
I'm looking into a similar issue right now, albeit based on camera motion triggers (system on 3.3.3 by the way). If I figure anything out I'll post it.

Not with the version 2 software which ditches bakpak and the NK1 completely

Hmm. Well if you can reset and it comes back it's not a hard short - in which case the most likely reason is a voltage leak between output and ground.
Problem is finding WHERE it comes from.
-Most commonly it's a bulb or fixture. The first is easy enough to swap and see if it follows the problem, the latter is a lot harder to do, but usually means putting up a (teporary) different fixture, replacing a transformer if it has one.
-Could be the panel itself. Easies way to figure that out is to swap them and have dealer RE-ID them in their respective spots
-Could be in the wiring...if so well that can be near impossible to find.

it's second best, the best is a piece is still a paperclip (to push that reset button) 🤣

halohasbeenoutforawhilenow

No this isn't actually new, just newly 'official': It's getting the apple or android (amazon) app on mac/windows 11

A simple video matrix (say 4 in 2 out) can be had for less than an appleTV if you can do an IR connection. Even a 'Pro' rated 4x2 should come in under the price of an AVR.
Two splitters should cost you about the same as a single ATV as well.....

Those aren't really servers, certainly don't account for internet traffic servers. We'd be talking servers for hosting domains, be they web domains/servers or game domains/servers
 
I would certainly agree with both of you here, like I said, I certainly don't suggest upgrading for the sake of it.
 
 

Router, yes. Core switch, most likely. Anything after that really depends on the need. If your APs support 2.5 or more (not sure what Ruckus has at the moment, do know the new x20 series APs have it from Araknis) then you'll want to ensure their path has it all the way so you'd have to update every switch in line to have it.
As always, going to be a question of cost vs benefit.
To me, I'd put in all 2.5/10 and SPF quads in wherever possible (ie wiring supports it) if your upgrading anyway: but I wouldn't by default say you'd need to upgrade right now just to get it.
If getting internet service over 1Gb, often youll find just changing the router and the core switch (especially if it breaks out to other switches) will be sufficient

halohasbeenoutforawhilenow