SMHarman

Ask them to take the quote fee off the bill if the work goes ahead.

Also, in the end both types of systems, once installed, will work exactly the same. The real only big difference is if the EA5 goes down, will most of lights still work? With hidden switches, primary loads in all room still work. And with panelized switches, if EA5 goes down, then all the primary loads to each keypad still work if programmed to specific functions. But again, like the post above said about the Lounge, he only programs the keypad top two buttons to turn on and off the main lights. So technically, in hidden system, this function would be the same as the keypad dimmer will always turn on main lights. Other then that, most of the other bullet points don’t really make a difference, except maybe the 0-10v and pump control, but again for those you have to buy a module for each. Again guys, just weighing it out. For the tiny differences,  I know that my dealer will say if your EA5 goes down, we can be there the next day to fix or replace. 

Installing panelized, using low-voltage panelized keypads and your director goes down: keypads within the room default to control a load, typically the main lights in the room.
Installing panelized, using high-voltage keypads and your director/zigbee server goes down: keypads within room stop working completely because the zigbee system is down.  No load control within your rooms.
Installing switches/dimmers traditionally or hidden, using low/high voltage keypads in your room and your director goes down: keypads within room stop working completely because the zigbee system is down.  No load control within your rooms.  Unless, a keypad dimmer is installed and a single button is set to control the room's lights. 
Does that spell it out for you??

YepPlease tell where we can get BNIB lighting hardware cheaper than a dealer?Indeed like a train wreck Some would say it's the same. Some would say it's going to cause problems and go against C4 design.

Also, you are custom building a 6,000 sq ft house and complaining about $1,000 price differences on lighting. If yiu want a C4 install here yiu should be putting 5-10% of build cost into tech. Some of that moves from electrical and other budgets. How many hidden loads.
How many floors.
How is this 6000 ft distributed.
Still trying to help but drip fed info makes this a tough thread.

My question would be, where are you sourcing all this “brand new” equipment other than from another dealer?
 
 

This entire thread is just a mess in the making. We have:
1) End user supplying their own C4 hardware, so will be used and possibly old and likely to be unsupported on future OS releases as well as having no warranty. 
 
2) A dealer willing to work with said end user supplying their own used kit and advising them against best practices by suggesting multiple keypad dimmers/switches hidden out of sight is the best way to condense control of multiple loads and have just a single keypad visible in the rooms. 
 
3) An end user asking for advice on here about best practices, been given correct best practice advice by most, ie panelised is the best solution with a large number of loads and a new build, and then still choosing to argue against it because they can buy their own cheaper/used keypad dimmers from eBay or similar. 
 
In my mind, both the end user and the dealer have made their bed, now let them sleep in it. Good luck to you both. 

“*Tested for Key Functions, R2/Ready for Resale* Power Adapter Not Included.”
 
Uhm....

The module is the equivalent of 8 APD, all in one device.
Rather than 8 APDs stuffed in 2 Four gang boxes, and tucked in a closet causing zigbee storms, you know have one module on the LAN, placed where ever it makes sense, often in the utility room.
Panelized doesn't mean you have to wire the whole house, or that you can't still use wireless lighting (KPD, APD, SW).
As I stated earlier, much earlier, use KPD for the main load in each room. Put the accent lighting and landscape and leftovers on Panelized. Panelized makes sense when there's more than a handful of leftovers.
Panelized simple solves the hidding of switches in closets. It solves homes with communication problems, since it's not wireless it's all on the LAN and keypad bus. It's convenient for landscape and accent lighting when there's transformers for the loads. It's clean wiring, it's often less wiring, and less copper. And if there's concerns with wireless signals in a home for medical or whatever, then there isn't any, it's can be all wired communications. BUT it DOESN'T have to be all panelized either.

Panelized
One 'box' (module) has 8 relays or 8 dimmers in it. You supply service feeds to the module depending on total load calculations, dimmer units up to 2 feeds, relay up to 4. The modules go in a panel, available in 2 module or 5 module sizes. Wiring is terminated first at a junction terminal block inside the panel, with jumpers to the modules. Facilitates testing and servicing. The panel is divided and has a separator for low voltage connections on the right. Each module gets wired to the LAN. Buttons on face of each module which protrudes through the panel cover, provide local testing and over ride. There is also the option to have a dumb toggle type wall switch wired to each module to anywhere in the home as a backup control.
You program and control the units through the software as you would any in wall devices. Building connections and scenes to buttons, remotes, voice, motion, timer, whatever.
Keypads can be any mix. Wireless Zigbee Keypads or Keypad dimmers or low voltage wired communicating keypads, which look and program the same as the zigbee units. The wired units then attach to a power supply and an Ehternet communication bus at the panel plugged into the LAN as well. Press a wired keypad button, command goes through the keypad wire, to the bus, to the LAN, to the processor, processor tells what module, wireless switch etc what to do.
In a hybrid system, no keypad power supply or bus is typically used. The zigbee keypads are the control. And rather than 8 dimmers in 2 four gang boxes, you have a panel with a module talking through the LAN. The electrician has less work typically, cause he's not cramming switches into boxes and nutting bunches of neutrals and grounds and such, simply screw down on the terminal blocks.

Unfortunately @rf9000 The answers being given to you are all pretty much the same and I haven;t read anything else to support what you are trying to do. I know its really not what you want to hear but sometimes we all have to accept that what we wanted to happen doesn't always represent good practice. Also believe this thread is going round in circles.

So you say you need to buy more switches from the dealer why are you fundamentaly opposed to buying an 8 pack dimmer and 2 unit box for that location.

Similar price and the right tool for the job.

You'll be fine with stashing 2-4 dimmers/switches elsewhere.  This is the same as having a 4 gang box.  The zigbee problems come when you have a cluster of 6,7,8 or more of them all stacked up.  The devices are too close to each other for smooth communication. 

By who's standard?
 
Look, you can put all those dimmers in a closet. Sure, go ahead. But if you're starting to have weird lighting control issues, know that the first thing to do is replace them with a panel.
 
THAT scenario is certainly possible - there's a big difference in hiding A dimmer in a different location, it's a whole other scenario to hide 20 lights in a closet together.
 
Possible? Sure. Is it the best way of doing it? Absolutely not. Would I suggest it? Well no, but that should have been clear already.
Just because you CAN do something, doesn't mean you SHOULD.

If you are doing this in new build you should do panelized lighting.  
Cleaner and more reliable and a similar cost.
 
Then at each entry to the kitchen you put a C4-KCB-120
 
Any competent electrician gets the wiring plan. It's easier for them than traditional wiring.
 
HV
Breaker>Panel.
Panel>Load
 
LV
Switch > Panel
 
They terminate it all.
 
Dealer programs it just the same.
 
Google Control4 Panelized Lighting. There are useful PDF available.
 
 

It means that the price of some of your work may just have come down, if indeed price was a factor.

Yep. I considered that for NYC.
Also that means baseline programing should be in the system before inspector walk-through so buttons behave as they would expect, not as you promise.

Agreed, for closets, garage, utility rooms, powder rooms, guest bathrooms, these will be a great option...
 
 

Mhh. If you go this way, you can, but pick a closet per FLOOR and wire for panel lighting instead.

New outlet dimmer and switch are long overdue. 
Essential even.

this is controlled through the DALS app or with alexa,google or ITFFF. would be nice to have an ip driver to control it. 

We have one project with an EA-1 running 32 zigbee lights, 4 SR-260s, 7 Sonos devices, 5 IP controlled TVs, 2 IP controlled AVRs, 2 IP controlled Blu-rays, an NVR with 6 IP cams, a DS2, DSC IT-100, Hunter Douglas PowerView Hub with 6 shades, and a MatterLink (IP to RF hub) with control of 5 motorized screens.
You’ll be fine lol.

Yes

The price is not far off market.

I'm using the AMX Alero By Harman 8 Zone Power Amplifier (Alero ALR-AMP-8) 16 Distribution Channels of True Audophile Quality Sound and Highly Efficient, Hear-Dissipating Class D Power Amplification

But that is because I got one for a great price on eBay.

But on amazon it's $1400.

Specifically you get 1RU of 8 zone amplification with cool class D amps.

You can use any amp with remote switching and the Control4 power amp driver but your dealer knows the Triad one and will be more comfortable dealing with that and warranty issues.

If something happened to random cheaper amp you are not going to get the dealer to do a swap while the amp is being repaired or warranty claimed. They will pull it and leave you amp free for the weeks it is going back to the manufacturer etc.

The Triad they can come out with a spare and almost hot swap it to keep your system ticking along.

Many reasons to work within their guard rails. It keeps your system ticking along.

If you are in USA!
Disney+ and Prime Video and many more apps are not yet enabled for other regions outside of the USA (And Canada?) on ROKU - yet....

Kid mining bitcoin?