Elvis

Guided access works great for IOS and wanting dedicated mode. 

Thanks. I'll give it a shot with a passive cable. No big loss, I guess if it doesn't work.

That’s backwards. 
Red R+
Black R- 
White L+
Green L-

Not for 20'. Shouldn´t be an issue even with a good passive HDMI cable.

Thank you for posting - this is brilliant.  I'm going to pick one up for future zone installations.  I'll probably modify my method by cutting from below with this thing rather than from the top.  I prefer moving the installation as described earlier so I know I have enough clearance from wires etc - at least for rooms you can access from the attic.  Downstairs zones I do use a method similar to yours @Elvis - though after that first coat hanger trick, I open the hole up a little and put a bendable camera up to confirm there are no framing, wires, etc. blocking where the speaker needs to go.

"Alex, I'll take things that sound perverted but really aren't for $500." 😁

My dad had a switched lamp plug in his office. I plugged his hotspot/router into that plug and made big labels for the switch: Internet ON and Internet OFF. Worked for years and years. Probably saved them from getting scammed when he started going downhill. HIs wife would just "turn off the Internet" and leave it off. 

My dad had a switched lamp plug in his office. I plugged his hotspot/router into that plug and made big labels for the switch: Internet ON and Internet OFF. Worked for years and years. Probably saved them from getting scammed when he started going downhill. HIs wife would just "turn off the Internet" and leave it off. 

Well I turn it off remotely.  Since internet is lost remotely I can’t turn it back on but my parents know the button to press (I’m using a wemo w a button). W cable box and modem and router they forget what to unplug.  So I can hit the button and shut it down. Then then know they physical button to press to turn on the switch
Unifi seems like a better option - my next one is for my mother in law so maybe I’ll test it out

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mMGidVerYy4&feature=youtu.be
Start at 48 min

Check out the @control4dealer twitter account.
 

I actually bought one of these Jack and never installed it thinking it'd be nice to be able to do closing based on (no) motion sensing.  I might be asking too much here.  

One thing to correct - you can CERTAINLY have OSD running and play audio over HDMI at the same time - 100% if the zone playing music also has the OSD, but it will get wonky when you try and stream music to zone2 on an amp, and use osd on zone1. The reasoning for this is buried in how C4 selects audio paths etc - it's just not designed to operate in the setup described here, so pushing that too far past it's design can create weird behaviour.
 
Ah two things I suppose. While EA1 and EA3 have LARGELY the same specs (ie same processor) - the separate audio chip in the EA3 is not there to allow stereo/coax connections - it actually takes over all audio processing, creating headroom on the main processor to run the system. Essentially this DOES make the EA3 a 'more powerful controller', even if it's processor is the same (think using a computer and the CPU's built-in video processing vs using an external graphics card)

I have a call w/ him today
but not if the 2 "rooms," are zones 1 and 2 on the same AVR?

Nonsense. An EA-1 can "control" multiple zones, regardless of the room. Therefore, an EA-1 can "control" two zones in one room.
The title of this thread is "Can EA-1 power two zones?" An EA-1 doesn't "power" anything. It is a controller, with HDMI output for an on screen display. It will also provide one audio stream (from several sources: Spotify Connect, Tidal, etc.) through that HDMI connection.

Except EA-1 can't work w/ two zones in the same room, doh!

First, you are way over-thinking this. EA-1, Atmos? The EA-1 is a controller. Yes, it will do one stream. But is a controller. You have Denon AVRs that handle the ATMOS, etc. The HDMI from the EA-1 gets you the on screen display and Now Playing for what you are streaming from the EA-1. But it is a controller, not an AVR.
Use your Denon HEOS to distribute your audio. The EA-1 can "control" that, I'm pretty sure. I have no experience with HEOS, but I do know the Denon AVRs are well supported.
You really would benefit from an onsite visit with an integrator. Just make sure you know what you want before they show up on site.

Then talk to him. He should back what he sold ya

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

I know what you mean and that some what makes distributed AV less attractrive, but you can't have an Amp in the cloud. 

Problem is that quantification is not that easy.
Your dealer is following 'standard' C4 protocol - one EA per TV. One EA per 'onscreen' location.
What is needed processing power wise, depends a lot on the setup. 3rd party drivers, complex programming and so on, so you can't 'blanket' state you need controller xx for this size of a house, this many tv/audio zones etc. It's just not that simple.
Lighting also comes into play - there ARE infact limitation on how much lighting a single controller can handle, though it's less about the type of controller as any single controllers ability to connect zigbee devices. This is not a hard limit, but total zigbee devices should not top 75, regardless of what (single) controller you have - more devices should see more controllers added (including CA-1's) to spread the load on that.
 
Basically, a single Theatre setup is an EA1 though if you have 1 or two added zones of just local TVs that's not an issue, anything more with audio should be EA3, EA5 I would suggest on anything over 8 zones of audio as the more efficient way of adding streams.
Add i/o extenders for added control points, add EA1 or CA1 for more zigbee.
Large houses get a CA-10 as a main controller, likely an EA5 to deal with audio streams, CA-1's for large zigbee setups.
 
But there's a lot of other reasons to go with controller xx or yy in certain setups - one basic example is if you're using (a fair bit of) 3rd party lighting, the tracking of that likely means an EA-5 is recommended at least.

There is an app CCTV Viewer that I use in Apple TV that is a lot easier than C4 imho. I think the guy was making an app for Android but not 100%.   I also use the free Unifi Protect app on ATV.   The iOS app is awesome for Protect.

Instead of a cloud key gen2. Another alternative is to get a Unifi dream machine pro for not much more .   This would give 8 switch ports plus has the controller software built in and you would not need the USG.

Yeah - The AP's can be connected to the core switch, makes sense.  And yes, putting in the USG Gateway segments your network within your control.  Upstream provided equipment is then just "hot Swappable" - As the WAN port / ports are configured for DHCP, and don't care about what is upstream, as long as it gets an IP address.  You also end  up with full visibility of the network within the UniFi stack:
Definitely get a Cloudkey Gen2

As soon as you guys send a link to the switch that won't work when there is a fork or spoon in the damn garbage disposal, then I'll be impressed.

This would be the ideal Network Topology.   However, dependent on the Physical cabling location, this could change.  
At the price point - Keep with a flat network, using all UniFi managed switches for visibility.
 
I'm also using 30mb down and 10mb up - It's more than enough for streaming Netflix and browsing simultaneously.  Have 4 working adults in my house all been served via this connection.  With regards to QOS - I always say, don't create solutions for problems you don't have   Unless you are telling me you're experiencing other problems?