WhyPhy

Took me a while, but I now have 2 different brands of generator (1 per house), 2 eGauge units and 2 solar control panels linked into my Control4 system via Modbus.  The Modbus driver really is powerful.  I have been fortunate in that all of these devices allow for Modbus over IP which is obviously easier to integrate with Control4 than Modbus over RS485 although the Yatun driver(s) support both.

I work with Modbus in my day job. FYI for others, it is the standard throughout the generator market (including industrial and commercial) and is traditionally run over RS485 serial, but newer implementations are over IP.
I’m impressed that you learned the protocol and got the driver working!

I work with Modbus in my day job. FYI for others, it is the standard throughout the generator market (including industrial and commercial) and is traditionally run over RS485 serial, but newer implementations are over IP.
I’m impressed that you learned the protocol and got the driver working!

One thing that the photo in the lower right/top right doesn't make super obvious is that the keypad buttons stick out from the Decora plate quite a bit, which looks bad from the side profile.

Look at this thread:  
 

Yes, button kit for APD/switches/0-10/aux, ...and there's a time note about Essentials (end year) but no context or pictures.
They fit a Decora, but protrude the face surface more.
The light sensor is now a clear bar and a gap at the base.
Not my picture, but found helpful. You can see how they sit with the current plate and typical screw plate.
 

is LinPhone available on the Fire Android store?  If so, its a separate app, but can work

Important update on my prior post.
The driver developer reached out to me, and relentlessly worked to identify the issues that were causing the problems and correct them. The delay in initial responsiveness to my request for help was due to a major time difference.
I’m happy to report that everything is now working flawlessly. The varietas driver is great, but this driver has more versatility for sure. In addition to the devices I had added to Homekit with the varietas driver, I am now able to also add cameras and other third party drivers much easier using the Homebridge UI directly in composer without any issues. I’ve also made some suggestions on additional features I think would make this driver even better, which will hopefully be implemented in a future update.
Furthermore and perhaps most importantly, I’m confident that if any issues pop up in the future due to iOS or c4 updates, they will be addressed immediately. 
For anyone that is on the fence about this driver or who is looking for a versatile way to integrate c4 devices into Homekit, I definitely recommend the driver.
Well done!

HYG
 

The Navigation agent (at this stage unless I missed an update somewhere) only allows one to programmatically pull up a camera .
Any of the various web-view drivers allows one to programmatically pull up a url. I use the Blackwire driver but there are many others all of which will do this,

Add the group dimmer driver.  Add the loads you want in the properties. Bind the button to the toggle load.  Will still give you single taps for full on/off, but certainly allows ramping based on what you set it to. 

For sharing,  I just finished installing the Pentair Intellicenter conversion kit (From EasyTouch Legacy 2007) in Pool/Spa configuration.    I have it connected via wifi with the C4 integration in place.   This kit was dated 4/21 so brand new and it comes with a new Wifi antenna and inside unit pairing device which is also recently updated.   The Pentair support told me the prior antenna and base unit had issues so this may be why some of the comments on this forum around avoiding wifi.    Of course,  hard wiring is better but so far so good.   With the new wifi adapter,  you have to use the inside pairing base unit which connects directly to your router/switch via ethernet.   You cannot just use the outside antenna and connect directly to your wifi network even if the signal is strong enough.  I have not figured out yet whether I can make this a static ip or not but will check later but as I said,  its worked perfect so far.  
There was one quirk for me.   In the fine print of the manual, it said this kit does not work if you have a legacy system with Intelliclor installed in the panel with a certain reset switch.   Mine had this so thought it was going to tank the install but since i was not using the Intelliclor (my system could go back and forth with salt vs chlorine),  I just removed the intellclor elments form the panel and had to grind off the little metal tab that held the reset button as it interfered with the panel installation.   Wasnt hard to do but none the less a complication that was not well communicated in the literature up front.
I'm really liking the system and integration so far but still early in the process.

I got this working today, and I'm impressed with the feature. It was a little more complicated of a setup than expected. The biggest issues were:
The Netplay Cloud driver was impossible to find. The forum post above is the only place I can find for the link. Google didn't return anything. It wasn't clear that I needed to enable overlays. When an overlay notification was sent, my nVidia Shield switch to the Splash Tiles app and displayed the full-screen editor, which was really confusing. The setup instructions should state that app overlay permission must be granted to the Splash Tiles App. I tried multiple times, but I could never get image to display from my Control4 DS2 DoorStation. (The URL is not accessible outside of my home network for security reasons - does it need to be?). The format of the URL is
https://root:password@192.168.1.100/api/camera/snapshot?width=640&height=480&source=internal  

I assume you are more interested in Home Edition Composer.
In programming, there are shortcut buttons for things like ELSE, AND, OR, BREAK, STOP, and DELAY (AND and OR are new...).  Also the ability to add Comments!
In the Navigator configuration screen, you can now use Apply To... to copy device order/visibility for your watch/listen/comfort/lighting/etc menus across any other rooms in the project (this is huge for big systems with several rooms, especially on new setup or adding a new device for example)
"A Programming Summary has been added. Programming Summary is accessible in the context (right-click) menu of any item in System Design. Programming Summary shows all programming including When >> Then sequences created by your customers.  Within the Programming Summary screen, programming can be replaced by dragging and dropping a new command item while holding the shift key."
The Timer Agent now supports the ability to pause and resume programming manually or with programming. Timer resets, restarts, or expiration has been made more flexible.
START
(if stopped): Starts the timer and executes the started event. (if running): Starts the timer over and executes the reset event. The timer then runs for the full duration. (if paused): Starts the timer over and executes the started event. STOP
(if stopped): Has no effect. (if running): Stops the timer and executes the stop event. The timer cannot be resumed. (if paused): Stops the timer and executes the stop event. The timer cannot be resumed. RESTART
(if stopped): Starts the timer and executes the reset and started events. (if running): Stops the timer, then starts the timer over. This executes the stop, reset, and started events. (if paused): Stops the timer, then starts the timer over. This executes the stop, reset, and started events. RESET
(if stopped): Starts the timer and executes the reset and started events. (if running): Starts the timer over and executes the reset event. The timer then runs for the full duration. (if paused): Resets the remaining time to the original timer interval and executes the reset event. The timer remains paused. PAUSE
(if stopped): Has no effect. (if running): Stops the timer, preserves the remaining timer duration, and executes the paused event. (if paused): Has no effect. RESUME
(if stopped): Has no effect. (if running): Has no effect. (if paused): Continues the timer from when it was paused and executes the resumed event.

Thanks for creating this driver!

I understand that the IRUSB app is required for the IRUSB hardware to function. It's an Android limitation. That was never in question. I don't understand why the IRUSB hardware continuously sends key commands that make the Android host device unusable before the IRUSB app is installed. I also don't understand why there aren't better instructions the the box stating "Do not install IRUSB hardware until IRUSB app has been installed from app store. Android device will not function properly if IRUSB hardware in installed without IRUSB app first being installed." Better yet, the hardware should ship with firmware that doesn't cause the "ghost remote key press" issue. The first priority should be "do no harm." I understand why the IRUSB app auto-launches and why it must display a full-screen page. It's an Android limitation. That was never in question. I don't understand why IRUSB app chooses to show such a user-unfriendly splash screen when it auto-launches. A user-first approach would be "Dear user, we're sorry this splash screen is interrupting your experience, but it's required for your device to interface with your remote control and home automation system. You can now press the back button to return to the main screen. (Oh, and if you'd like to learn more about our other products, please click here.)" A user-unfriendly approach would be "There's no obvious reason why the screen is being displayed, so let's take this chance to show some ads that makes things more confusing." Let me give an example of how this experience manifested itself last night. It was completely unplanned because it was the first time the Shield has been rebooted since installing IRUSB, but it demonstrates how the user experience could be better.
I start watching a TV show on Plex with my wife and daughter. About 30 minutes in, a Plex error message pops up. Rebooting is generally the universal fix, so I show my wife and daughter how to do that if it ever happens again and I'm not around.  I reboot from the Shield menu using the the Shield remote Device reboots, I open Plex, we resume watching the show A few minutes later, the IRUSB pop-up screen happens Before I can say or do anything, the comments start flying: Daughter: "What just happened? Dad, I think you need to reboot again." Wife: "It looks like a 4th grader made a powerpoint" Daughter: "It has 2 exclamation points, so I'm definitely going to buy it." Wife: "Why is there are a 'VS' in the corner? Are two people getting ready to fight each other like in that old video game?" Me: "Sorry, this is happens a few minutes after a reboot. I could explain why but you don't care. Just ignore it and exit back to Plex." If I hadn't been there, my daughter probably would have pushed buttons until things returned to normal, but my wife would have called me and asked what to do to make sure she didn't mess anything up. Please don't misinterpret the intent of my comments. The purpose is to highlight ways to improve the customer experience to make the product more user-friendly and desirable. It's difficult to develop hardware, software, and a great user experience. This is constructive feedback to help identify opportunities for improvement.

I understand that the IRUSB app is required for the IRUSB hardware to function. It's an Android limitation. That was never in question. I don't understand why the IRUSB hardware continuously sends key commands that make the Android host device unusable before the IRUSB app is installed. I also don't understand why there aren't better instructions the the box stating "Do not install IRUSB hardware until IRUSB app has been installed from app store. Android device will not function properly if IRUSB hardware in installed without IRUSB app first being installed." Better yet, the hardware should ship with firmware that doesn't cause the "ghost remote key press" issue. The first priority should be "do no harm." I understand why the IRUSB app auto-launches and why it must display a full-screen page. It's an Android limitation. That was never in question. I don't understand why IRUSB app chooses to show such a user-unfriendly splash screen when it auto-launches. A user-first approach would be "Dear user, we're sorry this splash screen is interrupting your experience, but it's required for your device to interface with your remote control and home automation system. You can now press the back button to return to the main screen. (Oh, and if you'd like to learn more about our other products, please click here.)" A user-unfriendly approach would be "There's no obvious reason why the screen is being displayed, so let's take this chance to show some ads that makes things more confusing." Let me give an example of how this experience manifested itself last night. It was completely unplanned because it was the first time the Shield has been rebooted since installing IRUSB, but it demonstrates how the user experience could be better.
I start watching a TV show on Plex with my wife and daughter. About 30 minutes in, a Plex error message pops up. Rebooting is generally the universal fix, so I show my wife and daughter how to do that if it ever happens again and I'm not around.  I reboot from the Shield menu using the the Shield remote Device reboots, I open Plex, we resume watching the show A few minutes later, the IRUSB pop-up screen happens Before I can say or do anything, the comments start flying: Daughter: "What just happened? Dad, I think you need to reboot again." Wife: "It looks like a 4th grader made a powerpoint" Daughter: "It has 2 exclamation points, so I'm definitely going to buy it." Wife: "Why is there are a 'VS' in the corner? Are two people getting ready to fight each other like in that old video game?" Me: "Sorry, this is happens a few minutes after a reboot. I could explain why but you don't care. Just ignore it and exit back to Plex." If I hadn't been there, my daughter probably would have pushed buttons until things returned to normal, but my wife would have called me and asked what to do to make sure she didn't mess anything up. Please don't misinterpret the intent of my comments. The purpose is to highlight ways to improve the customer experience to make the product more user-friendly and desirable. It's difficult to develop hardware, software, and a great user experience. This is constructive feedback to help identify opportunities for improvement.

That is a slight improvement, but it still doesn't make sense to the average user who has no idea what IRUSB is; they don't even know they are using IRUSB. They just want to turn on the TV and watch something.
Also, I don't see why additional Netplay TV/SplashTiles apps should be installed just to change the default screen to something slightly less confusing; extra apps create even more potential for end-user confusion. This doesn't really match the intent of Control4 being a professional installer level solution.

The "attractive, user-friendly splash screen" is a great suggestion. The existing splash screen is pure confusion for end users. It makes it look like the device has been hacked by ad-ware. It should look like specialized control software the user paid to have installed by a smart home professional.

The "attractive, user-friendly splash screen" is a great suggestion. The existing splash screen is pure confusion for end users. It makes it look like the device has been hacked by ad-ware. It should look like specialized control software the user paid to have installed by a smart home professional.

The "attractive, user-friendly splash screen" is a great suggestion. The existing splash screen is pure confusion for end users. It makes it look like the device has been hacked by ad-ware. It should look like specialized control software the user paid to have installed by a smart home professional.

The "attractive, user-friendly splash screen" is a great suggestion. The existing splash screen is pure confusion for end users. It makes it look like the device has been hacked by ad-ware. It should look like specialized control software the user paid to have installed by a smart home professional.

Forum members,
 
I will be, at least for the time being, not taking on any further remote programming work.  I have switched career fields, and have been working in engineering for the past few months.  There simply are not enough hours in the day to adequately service the requests I receive.  
 
With that, I would like to say that it has been an immense pleasure working with all of you, and getting to know you.  I started this thread back in 2011, and have nothing but positive things to say about the C4forums.com community.  Some of you have become real friends, and I am grateful for that.  I'll still be around, just on a much more limited basis.  There are several great integrators on this site: Matt Lowe, Mitch at Greenfield, AK1, Ari at Epic-Systems, etc.  I'm sure you guys will be in good hands with them.  
 
I wish you all the best,  this forum got me started on a journey I could have never expected.  I greatly appreciate the support and patronage over the years.  A special thanks to Dan Levine and the guys at former Cytexone for providing this platform.  None of this would've been possible without them.
 
May your Zigbee be strong, and your networks robust always.
 
Peace,
Neil12011

What mujtaba is saying is that the switch can't directly dim / color change the low voltage LEDs. The low voltage LEDs needs to be controlled by their own power supply/controller, and then C4 controller uses a driver to communicate with the LED controller. The C4 switches would send commands to the C4 controller, which would send commands to the LED controller, which would control the lights.
Some examples of this are Philips Hue (C4 controller -> Philips Hue controller -> Philips Hue LED light strip) and DMX (C4 controller -> DMX controller -> LED light strip.) This allows dimming control and color change control.
But this is only if you need dimming capability or color change capability. If you don't, the easiest solution is to have a Control 4 wall switch (SW120277)  turn the LED power supply on / off. The LED power supply is what converts high voltage to low voltage. This is the solution I'd recommend unless you're set on dimming or color change.

What mujtaba is saying is that the switch can't directly dim / color change the low voltage LEDs. The low voltage LEDs needs to be controlled by their own power supply/controller, and then C4 controller uses a driver to communicate with the LED controller. The C4 switches would send commands to the C4 controller, which would send commands to the LED controller, which would control the lights.
Some examples of this are Philips Hue (C4 controller -> Philips Hue controller -> Philips Hue LED light strip) and DMX (C4 controller -> DMX controller -> LED light strip.) This allows dimming control and color change control.
But this is only if you need dimming capability or color change capability. If you don't, the easiest solution is to have a Control 4 wall switch (SW120277)  turn the LED power supply on / off. The LED power supply is what converts high voltage to low voltage. This is the solution I'd recommend unless you're set on dimming or color change.